Rifle ID

Discussion in 'Cast & Blast' started by tythetier, May 4, 2009.

  1. I dont really stay up to date on my fire arm knowledge. I only have three guns that I fire regularly.
    I decided I wanted to match rounds to guns that I have. I have three sets of rifle rounds marked as follows... "match 56", "30-06" (this one I do know), "110 hornaday". I know I have a .06, but the other rifle is confusing..
    The only mark is right at the bolt end of the barrel and it says ".256", but the "match 56" and "110" rounds look almost the same (one has a rounded tip, the other pointed), and both fit and chamber fine in the ".256".

    So my question is... Is there such a thing as a .256? When I first got this gun, I went to a sporting goods store and the guy looked at me kinda weird.

    This gun is beautiful!! Almost like a mahogany wood stock (very striped), and a compass in the bottom of the hand grip.
    Any input??
     
  2. There is a lot more to "What kind of gun do I have?" than just a few stampings...

    There should be much more on the barrels and the actions, than what you are listing. Shapes of the actions and the bolts tells much and pictures would help a great deal.

    There are a couple 256 named cartridges but neither should be chambering a 30-06 cartridge. The 256 Newton is at least built (loosely) on a 30-06 case, but reduced in diameter. It does not shoot .256 caliber bullets either, even though .257" is a standard diameter bullet, but rather it shoots .264" bullets.

    The 256 magnum is a tiny little rimmed thing and much smaller than a 30-06 case... and half the length.

    The 110Hornady rounds are referencing the bullet weight and 110 is much lighter than most 30-06 ammo, though possible. Typically 30-06 bullets are 180-220grs, with some in the 150, 165gr sizes.

    It is EXTREMELY unsafe to chamber ammo in rifles if you are at all unsure of anything. Further, doing it indoors is a serious safety no-no. I do it regularly, but strip the bolt to ensure nothing icky happens.

    More later...
    art
     
  3. I never chambered the 3006 into the 256. The 110 are a lot smaller than these, so I dont think that they are for it...
     
  4. Take the gun to a good gunsmith. He can tell you what you have. The guys below are in Orchards and know what they are doing.

    Brightwater Ventures
    12200 NE 60th Way
    Vancouver, WA 98682 Map
    (360) 256-6700

    The man in Washoughal Mercantile could do the same.
     
  5. it should tell you the caliber right on the barrel, it will be engraved into it

    pics would be cool
     
  6. Getting pics tonight. Try to remember them in the morning.
     
  7. Alright here are some pictures of the '.256'. Let me know what you guys think...
     
  8. Also, I think I have the ammo thing figured out. I did some more digging in some of the gobs of gun stuff Lindas dad left to her.
    We have crap loads of 30-06 rounds, & 7.92mm rounds. What shoots 7.92??
    Check 'em out...
     
  9. First off, take it to a gunsmith to confirm and avoid a potential accident.

    Secondly, it appears to be a sporterized & rebarreled Mauser 98, so it could theoretically be chambered for just about anything. 7.92x57 is also known as 8mm Mauser. 7.92 was the original German military designation. Most modern consumer ammunition in that caliber is marked as 8x57.

    Thirdly, where did you come across this mystery ammo and why don't you already know which guns to use it with?
     
  10. My wifes dad was into restoring/building guns. When he passed away she kept it. Some guns are in really good shape, and there are a few that are in the early stages of restoration.
    His death wasnt really planned, so he didnt get a chance to label stuff.
     
  11. 256 could be the number of production
     
  12. The Match L.C. 57 head stamp ammunition is Military Match Ammo manufactured at the Lake City Plant in 1957. It should be 30-06 Caliber.
     
  13. Sweet hell!!! I knew it was old but didnt know it was that old.
     
  14. probably also corrosive primer...is shoots but make sure you clean the bore well afterward.
     
  15. Not to side track the tread to much but I seen ammo for sale saying non-corrosive or corrosive ammo. Just what does that mean any ways? I know what corrosive means but what makes some primers corrosive and is there a way to tell the diffrence between the two? Seems like its a concern on both out of country ammo and old ammo.
     
  16. Negative on corrosive primed Lake City ammo...

    Boxer primers are almost never mercuric compound based. Berdan-primed stuff, usually foreign military stuff, is most often mercuric and corrosive.

    Berdan primers are very tough to remove and therefore reload... If it says "reloadable" or "Boxer-primed" it is non-corrosive (with rare exception).

    Boxer primers have a metal anvil inside the primer cup which moves when struck, ignites the priming compound and which then ignites the gunpowder. Berdan cases have the anvil as part of the case, greatly complicating spent primer extraction. Their use is intentional in most countries to eliminate reloading.

    The priming compounds in Berdan primers rely more on heat generated by pressure to ignite, where Boxer primers rely more on the friction of moving metal inside the cup. The latter is easier to make with non-corrosive compounds.

    Age has little to do with the differences as both were patented in the 1800s, just after the American Civil War. Both designs were clean enough to survive relatively unchanged for well over a century.
    art
     
  17. Surplus ammo sold thru CMP in the 50's and 60's marked 'M-1 Ball' had corrosive primers. Alot of it still exists in old-timers basements and garages.
    My dad had tons of the stuff....30-06, 30cal carbine, 45acp.
     
  18. To my knowledge the only Lake City ammo made after WWII with corrosive primers was match ammo and clearly marked "Do not reload" among other things... It was made but is unusual. I attempted to cover the exceptions, but see I did not do it as clearly as I should have.

    Should also clear up the mercuric and corrosive issues as they are two different issues from the standpoint of the firearm. The potasium chlorate used as priming left some potasium chloride in the bore and this acted like most salts to suck up atmospheric water and induce rusting. The mercuric compounds weakened the brass, IIRC through caustic embrittlement, building lattices in the metal and sheer planes which failed during subsequent firing.

    There is a bunch of LC headstamped, Chinese ammo out there now which is also corrosive, but recent.
    art
     
  19. Maybe its a BA-K-47

    Nope. I just googled the above rifle, and it doesn't resemble it.:rofl:
     
  20. Tyler, did you ever get this rifle IDed?
     

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