Rigging Tube flies so you don't lose them when you break off the hook.

Discussion in 'Steelhead' started by Paul Huffman, Jan 30, 2013.

  1. Ok, you have me at a loss here. If you were to snag up, you'd lose the fly anyways if it was tied on a waddington or a traditional fly hook. So snagging up the hook and losing it would be no different. But, as mentioned, if you do damage your hook you can do a simple retie and be fishing that same fly again. I for one could care less if I lose them, since it's part of the game. Only problem is, you'll be using a few of those slip bobber stops if you want to change flies. Just suck it up and lose the fly already. ;)
  2. It seems to me that you're going to lose the fly whether it is on a tube or a hook. I think you have to be willing to lose a fly or two in order to fish the way you should. If you're worried about losing a fly you probably aren't covering all the water and you're missing some fish. " I tie and fish with Ade's rulle of three."
  3. Jerry,
    you're right, typically the fly goes with the hook when it's broken off, because the tube fly itself is wedged in rocks, etc. The idea is that if just the hook is caught, buried into a log or something where the tube is not affected, you can break the hook off, but the tube manages to stay on the leader. This way you can lose just hooks, and not the tube that they fly is tied onto. I've been doing this for a while, pegging the tube with a toothpick, and when just the hook is caught, i do get the tube back, but typically, if i'm breaking the line, I'm breaking off the whole kit because the tube itself is jammed into boulders on the bottom.
  4. when you lose as many flies as I do, you get kind of crafty about how to economize...
  5. What's the rule of three?
  6. When you peg the tube, is it pegged in the "top" where the line goes back to you, or the "bottom" the hook end of the tube.

    If I were not covering the water, I wouldn't be wondering about how to save more flies.

    I discovered one way to get more flies back. I like Owner ssw hooks on my stinger loop. They hook and hold well. When I snag up, I was either dragging in the snag or breaking off 15 lb maxima. Then this winter, I caught a couple fish on pink gami octopus hooks, therefore I think I need pink hooks all the time. When I snag up with one of these colored gami hooks, It feels like I've broken off, but I reel in a partially straightened hook. I can just drop in anew pink hook into the stinger loop and keep on fishing, avoiding the position to that snag, of course. It seems like these weaker hooks help get flies back.
  7. Pegging the tube sounds so simple and straight forward I can't believe I didn't think of that already. I'll give it a try next time I'm fishing tubes. Thanks!
  8. Bob Ade, relatively well known guide, tyer, fly shop manager for Kaufmann's in Seattle and Bellevue for a time, and all-around good guy has his "rule of three" for his good flies. I'll paraphrase. Always tie three because the first one is going to be lost in a tree or on a rock. The second will be lost to the biggest fish you've ever seen and the third will be needed to continue fishing for that monster fish. I always tie a minimum of three of every pattern and have at least three of my best flies for whatever I'm fishing for. It sounds querky but there are many times that the rule has proven to be true. In reality, if I have a proven pattern, I tie and carry a lot more, e.g., size 16 Elk Hair Caddis in green. When I go to the Deschutes, I take a dozen or more. I may not carry them all in my vest but I take a large box, usually crammed to the hilt with everything I might need to be successful.
  9. Hi Paul,

    I have stopped using shank style flies and have pretty much switched to tubes 100% when using a fly with a trailing hook. The problems I have encountered with shank style flies are the material used for the trailing hook. You have wire, which is great for many reasons, but it can have too much torque placed on a hook and you can lose fish as explained better here


    The other problem with power pro or other trailing hook line is.. it is too limp. (just my opinion) The hook bounces and bobs, twists, and flops around back there, and doesn't really swim true. I guess I don't like leaving it up to chance on where that hook is when a fish hits. I like to know it is swimming correctly down or up and not in some random fashion. I like using tubes where I can tie a loop and then have the knot of the loop pull into the tube or have the tube stop the knot from coming up. ( mainly frodin tube material and now protube's nano tubes and even the flexitubes). This way you have a more rigid trailer using the stiffer mono in the loop that swims better and more consistent.

    For getting down, just put on a bullet worm weight in 1/64 oz, 1/32oz or go to a 1/16 or bigger depending on your what you need. They are real cheap and you can paint them up if you need to. I think you can get 100 worm weights from amazon for $6 or 7$..

    The great thing about unweighted tubes is they seem to have more "life" as they swim in the current being pulled by line compared to a heavier shank style fly that seems they need alot of current or outside help to get them to "move". Anyway, this is how I fish now, and My views might change about tubes or shanks anytime. Take it for what it is worth.
  10. Another way to rig a tube fly for changeable weight. Is to add/melt clear liner tubing to different size brass/tungsten cones.

    Melt the liner tubing lip, slide on the cone, cut the liner tubing leaving 1/16", Sharpie color the top exposed liner tubing before melting if colored tubing is wanted, melt the top exposed liner tubing.

    Use a Beau Mac Wedgie to peg the cone to the leader and tube fly. Retie the leader loop knot to the sink tip to change the cone.

    UV Candy Cones:

    Nickel cone with two coats/dips of Dick Nite Transparent Fishermun's Lure-Coat and one coat/dip of CS Coatings UV Blast. The nickel bleeds through for an awesome uv candy colored finish.

  11. I use 30# Fireline for the dropper loop on shanks and it seems to be "Goldilocks" for stiffness.

    I've heard from other tubers that they like the way they can position the hook up or down. However, I was never convinced that the hook stays positioned all the way through a swing with just a pair of lead eyes for geotaxsis.

    Also, it takes me a couple times to get the loop size correct on a tube stream side. I suppose I could get better with practice. Too many times I just saw "that's close enough!" and cast with the hook flopping well beyond the junction tube. I've caught fish that way too.
  12. Trust me, I lose a lot of flies too. I'm from the school of "If you're not losing gear, you're not deep enough" LOL. They're just so cheap to tie up, I don't worry about it. For me, I just string up a new one and away we go. And like you, most of the time I'm jammed at the tube too.

    Yup, a few of us are switching to worm weights. Beau Mac now has weighted cheaters. So get an eggy look and cool colors and a variety of weights to boot.
  13. With Tiemco 7989 hooks at upward of 16 bucks a pack, I'll be fishing tubes... I can get short shank hooks for a lot less than that. I don't fish tubes all the time, but on rivers with a really grabby bottom, like the spots I fish on vancouver island, I prefer them.

    I also like the ability to change hooks out for different fishing conditions. When I know there will be a lot of resident fish, especially smaller dollies and trout in the warm summer months, I scale down the hook I run off the back of the tube so I don't injure those smaller fish.

    Weighted cheaters, huh???
  14. For keeping it to ride straight you need to have some sort of "rudder". Arctic fox or something similar works great, as well as a rabbit strip. For measuring, I lay the tube on my hand on my middle finger. I line up the tube with my middle crease in my middle finger and measure from there to the end of my finger, and then seeing how long I need it, I then tie my loop the same size as what is needed. The loops usually measure from first crease to second crease or just past on my middle finger. Not sure if that makes sense visually.
  15. I was also going to say... IF you want to get your flies back, use the bobber stop method. Then use a loop knot that breaks well under 100%. If you use 15lb maxima, and use a perfection loop, I think you are effectively fishing 10-12lb fishing strength with the perfection loop. The loop on a perfection loop breaks well under 100%, and 9 times out of 10 will break right at the knot itself.

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