Rocky Mountain Rafts

Discussion in 'Watercraft' started by BDD, Jul 29, 2012.

  1. BDD Active Member

    Posts: 2,228
    Ellensburg, WA
    Ratings: +218 / 2
    We just finished a frame for a Rocky Mountain Raft. Although I have not fished it yet, some friends spent a week fishing Montana and my old boss spent a couple days fishing the Yakima (the fishing was great for the former, less so for the latter) with this boat. Anyway, I hope to get it out soon to either the Yak or the Met now that it is finally dropping into shape, or even the Klickitat (hopefully all three).

    It is a bit narrower, more like the Aire/Outcast lineup but the all-welded PVC rather than being glued like some of the other less expensive rafts is a nice feature.

    We have this boat available as a rental or demo...contact me if interested.

    Attached Files:

  2. Patrick Gould Active Member

    Posts: 2,356
    Ellensburg, WA
    Ratings: +688 / 1
    Looks great.
  3. ten80 Active Member

    Posts: 516
    Anchorage, AK
    Ratings: +84 / 0
    Very clean frame setup, nicely done. Say, do you have a good source for anchor line pullies? I seem to only be able to find cheapo home depot/lowes and very expensive sailing pullies ($20-30 EACH!). thanks!
  4. shawn k Member

    Posts: 697
    buckets worldwide
    Ratings: +19 / 0
    If I was in the market for a raft I would jump all over that set up. My buddy has a set of the cat tubes and they are a
    steal for the price that they go for.
  5. BDD Active Member

    Posts: 2,228
    Ellensburg, WA
    Ratings: +218 / 2
    I have good news and bad news...see the link below for a pulley source.

    http://www.fisheriessupply.com/

    The bad news (in your case) is we use the expensive $20-$30 pulleys because we like to use quality gear in our boats.
  6. Robert Engleheart Robert

    Posts: 1,147
    Lemoore, CA
    Ratings: +112 / 0
    Just finished up my frame for my RMR 14' tubes. Now to get it on the water. Still need to fab/add a standing platform to carry a 2nd angler behind oarsman. Frame by KVI, Good folks and love the fittings, clean and pre-drilled.

    Attached Files:

  7. Shapp Active Member

    Posts: 222
    Back to the state of my birth (OR)
    Ratings: +37 / 0
    Nice, I have the same fittings on my cat and raft frames, but unless you are going to take it appart on a regular basis I advise using a bolt and nylock nut instead of the pins. Also on the corners along the side rails, once the fitting is in place I take out the set screw, make a small divit with a drill bit to get a better bite with the set screw, then glue the set screw in. This is done so the set screws on the corners do not wiggle loose during travel. I don't do this to the other cross bars because I periodically move them a bit to accomodate different setups.
    Ed Call and Robert Engleheart like this.
  8. Shapp Active Member

    Posts: 222
    Back to the state of my birth (OR)
    Ratings: +37 / 0
    one more tip, if you do put in the bolts/nylock nuts, don't over tighten the nuts, you can crack the fittings. I have done it. A snug fit is all you need.
  9. ten80 Active Member

    Posts: 516
    Anchorage, AK
    Ratings: +84 / 0
    I use blue Loc-Tite on the set screws, prevents screws from loosening but the screws can still be adjusted. One application of Loc-Tite will last for several adjustments and it comes in small tubes that easily fit in a repair kit.

    I just ordered some Ronstan blocks (pullies in sailing speak) from West Marine. They were $10-30 depending on model. Will post a review once I get my anchor setups dialed. http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wc...3&langId=-1&searchKeyword=538603#.UCEl6vaPWGM

    Robert, I think your anchor arm/mount is going to rotate around the pipe it is clamped to. Looks like you have the NRS kit and it is designed to be used with their yokes which have two parallel bars, the lower of which would prevent rotation of the arm. You could easily address this by adding a crossbar between your curved drop rails.

    Also, I have a Frontier Play box and have noticed that it flexes A LOT when sat on. I recommend you put some reinforcing aluminum sheet under the lid to keep the seat from ripping out. I regret my purchase of the FP box because for only $100 more I could have had a thicker, more durable box that doesn't flex and dent easily.
  10. shawn k Member

    Posts: 697
    buckets worldwide
    Ratings: +19 / 0
    Nice set up robert. One more thing to add about your anchor setup. the small pulley that is attached to the nrs fitting
    The bare u-bolt needs to be covered up with another nut or something otherwise you will rip your waders getting in and out of your boat.
  11. Robert Engleheart Robert

    Posts: 1,147
    Lemoore, CA
    Ratings: +112 / 0
    ShawnK, I'm looking for one this PM. Good hdw store in town has all those bits. BTW I found a source for pins, $0.68 ea. The frame is a work in progress, just trying to get it on the water before levels drop (soon). I want to add a standing platform to seat front angler on padded ice chest with feet on added platform, lean bar to keep him in. The elevated seat and another lean bar will slide to the back. Most waters I fish are less than Class III and the RMR tubes have a long waterline so I'm hoping they'll handle 2 anglers and me when desired. I'm talking the lower Sac, class II at best.
  12. Robert Engleheart Robert

    Posts: 1,147
    Lemoore, CA
    Ratings: +112 / 0
    Robert, I think your anchor arm/mount is going to rotate around the pipe it is clamped to. Looks like you have the NRS kit and it is designed to be used with their yokes which have two parallel bars, the lower of which would prevent rotation of the arm. You could easily address this by adding a crossbar between your curved drop rails.

    Also, I have a Frontier Play box and have noticed that it flexes A LOT when sat on. I recommend you put some reinforcing aluminum sheet under the lid to keep the seat from ripping out. I regret my purchase of the FP box because for only $100 more I could have had a thicker, more durable box that doesn't flex and dent easily.[/quote]

    Ten80, thanks, I thought about that on the anchor. RE: The FP box, I agree. I actually put the seat mounting plate on the inside of the box lid, no way it'd hold otherwise. I'm not sure about use of the box for a seat, may shift it up front with etafoam pad to carry kids, or put in the back. They are cheap.
  13. Robert Engleheart Robert

    Posts: 1,147
    Lemoore, CA
    Ratings: +112 / 0
    BTW, I do appreciate the feedback, thanks to all.
  14. ten80 Active Member

    Posts: 516
    Anchorage, AK
    Ratings: +84 / 0
    I've considered adding a third hinge and latch to my FP box to stiffen up the lid and make it a better seat. So far, it has held up fine with >200lb fellas sitting on it with an ethafoam pad.

    Forgot to say that I like your front learn bar setup, should also serve as a fence to keep the kids on board. Did you make it yourself?

    I have 14'x26" tubes (Aire Lion) that handle 3 anglers and a rower (~700-800lbs) fine in low water. My tubes only draw 6-7" water with that load, so I bet your slightly slimmer tubes should be fine with 3 average-sized dudes.
  15. Shapp Active Member

    Posts: 222
    Back to the state of my birth (OR)
    Ratings: +37 / 0
    I added a third butterfly latch in the middle of our fontier play dry box and it helps a lot with the flexing. I also agree, I would never buy another one.
  16. Robert Engleheart Robert

    Posts: 1,147
    Lemoore, CA
    Ratings: +112 / 0
    ten80, the lean bar is from KVI. Believe it's the same as NRS. My 2nd (for rear) will be a 3/4 style, also an NRS. One side is open, easier to get in/out of.