SA Uniform Sink--Something Better?

Discussion in 'Stillwater' started by LCnSac, Apr 10, 2014.

  1. Tonight I was stringing up for bass tomorrow, and noticed about a quarter inch of "coating" missing on my SA Type IV line. I don't know if wrapping it in the Minn Kota last year had anything to do with that;-)

    So, I need a new line, unless I can repair this one which is probably a no? I've ALWAYS bought SA Uniform Sink for lake fishing, but wonder if there's anything better for a 6 wt. line?

    My favorite lines are Rio Outbound Short I use for Stripers, and they claim those are "density compensated." I'm not sure if that's the same thing, and of course a uniform sink rate is critical for many freshwater species.

    You say?
  2. Depends on who you ask. I tried the rio (the front heavy one) and couldn't stand it. Immediately went back to the SA, it casts and it works. You'll hear some differing opinions though. For me the rio was clunky.
    Lue Taylor likes this.
  3. Stay with SA
  4. 1/4 of an inch? How does overall affect the line? Not ragging, just curious. Does it affect the casting, the sink rate, the hook set?
  5. Where can I buy some at a deal? My type four is over 10 yr old and the coating starting to crack in places. I'd like to replace it. I need 6wt type IV full sink.
  6. Similar to Fenders, I tried the RIO as well and didn't like it as much. The SA line has been great for me.

  7. I don't see any affect, however I do see material that looks like fabric showing through. Maybe some superglue?
    Irafly likes this.
  8. I somehow cut my line in 2 pieces. I used braided mono and aquaseal to create a junction. I have not put it to the test and I prefer if that section of line is on the reel when big fish hit. Haha. This may work for you also but it is ugly and you will still want to replace the line.

    Nice boat! I like the layout. Do stripping baskets fit onto your down rigger mounts for days when you leave the gear rod behind?
  9. Thanks, Jeff! Since that picture I have stripped out all the hardware equipment and accessories as I rarely use gear. My stripping buckets are made from collapsable laundry bags from Walmart with a wood bottom with doweling. Not as pretty as the Sea Level but cost less than one tenth as much and perfectly functional.
    Jeff Dodd likes this.
  10. I repaired a saltwater line using braided mono. It did pretty well until I was pulling REALLY hard on a saltwater fish, in Mexico, with my 11 weight and KA-POW!!!, a sound like a Black Cat firecracker went off and my line broke at the the braided mono connection. So, the connection does work for the most part, but it does have its limitations...
  11. You are really comparing two different types of lines in regards to the SA uniform sink and a Rio Outbound Short.
    Those that don't like the Outbound are likely used to making multiple false casts. One false cast, aim high and let it fly with the Outbound.
    troutpocket likes this.
  12. I ended up using heat shrink tubing for the fix. I use the pool to check flies and lines, and I don't think there's any ill effect with the fix, as least nothing visual. We'll see how long it holds.
  13. i personally like the rio density compensated lines. I've had the same Deep 6 for like 10 years, used it in salt& fresh, i can't tell you how many different species i've caught using it, lakers, lings, rock fish, salmon, all sorts of weird tropical stuff in nicaragua, smallies, walleye, & the biggest rainbow of my life. I dont' find it to be clunky to cast with, you just can't be impatient with it, especially with lighter rods. I actually think it fishes best of a fairly medium action 6 wt, just take your time, let the rod flex well down into the butt, and watch out while that line catapults off.
  14. The line is supposed to sink, right? Who cares if the fabric is showing through. If a quarter inch is the only problem, I'd use AquaSeal to coat the effected area and call it good. AquaSeal is more flexible than your typical superglue.

    If you absolutely must buy a new full sinking line, I'd stick with the SA. But for a quarter inch problem, I'm too cheap to spend 70-80 bucks for a new line that is supposed to sink.
    bakerite and Jeff Dodd like this.
  15. I think this is accurate. The new Rio In-Touch lines are much closer to a shooting head taper than a standard weight forward. I've been fishing an Outbound Hover line in lakes the past four years and have adapted to casting it (find the load point, pick it up once and shoot it out again). This spring I picked up the In-Touch camolux and find it casts very similar to an Outbound - which is good if you like to cast a shooting head and bad if you don't.

  16. I also did the "Minnkota Wrap" on my SA IV twice and had several 1/4" areas where the core showed.
    It was my go to lake line for years but my catch rate seemed to go down after I screwed it up. I fish with the same
    guy a lot, often use the same flies and went from comparable catch rates before to getting my butt kicked consistently.
    Ironically both times were while netting his fish!

    Just my theory but I noticed that the line hinges easily at these points and also wonder if the braided core doesn't wick water and affect the uniform sink. (Not that I'm above the occasional buttkicking)

    I finally broke down and got the Airflo Sixth Sense in both 3 and 5. I've fished the 3 several times with good results. Virtually
    no memory and casts well. No factory loop but I can live with that.

    I'll save my IV as a "loaner";)
  17. I used the Type IV the other day while pool testing a booby fly, and watched the line sink. In my warped imagination, I had an image of a line neatly sinking in a somewhat uniform manner. That is not the case at all. There is no way a strike could be detected for probably a good 30-60 seconds after the cast unless you start stripping, thus setting the lower depth limit. The line is a mess underwater. Your AirFlo is on closeout, thanks. Might have to look at that.

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