Sage Z-Axis Spey Rods

Discussion in 'Spey Clave' started by poirierpro, Sep 10, 2009.

  1. We used an Airflo Compact Skagit 600. While it would seem like the 8134 would be more rod than the 8129, I think the 8129 can handle more weight. We used 600's on both, and I just ordered a new Rio Flight 625 for the 8129. Would like to try a Delta on the 8134 and get away from some of the stripping with the Skagits
  2. I have yet to try the 600 compact. I thought the 570 was light and when I tried the 630 it felt ok but for some reason not right. Maybe 27' is a little short. I really want to try the NW skagit 650 and take some out of the belly to shorten/lighten it up but I'm weary of the grains per foot at the end of the front taper, and whether or not it can turn over T-17 because I know this rod wants it bad.
  3. Has anyone tried the RB Meiser Scandit line systems and what is your feedback? I've been muddling through with various compact skagits for my Z's. I find that I'm at least one or two line weights higher than those of you with a better skill level. I have found that the 8129 feels best for me with a 660 compact skagit. I also have enjoyed the 7136 at 600. As I read recommendations here many are well under those grain weights. For me though these seem to be good line weights for me right now.

    Here is to keeping an informative thread back on top.
  4. Any feedback people want to share about the z axis 8134? I've been looking for another rod to build, John F recommended this blank. I've got a 6 and 9wt DH z's, John thought the 8134 would be a nice addition to the 6 and 9wts.

  5. Sick rod with TONS of power. I personally haven't found a great skagit line yet as it seems to have a somewhat finicky loading point that can only be found somewhere in the forward stroke with shooting head type lines. I have yet to try the PNW skagit but I think this rod would excell with a longer shooting head. I really like it with an 8/9 windcutter for touch and go-s but especially with snap, circles and double speys where you're throwing the loop back and catching it with the tip and immediately feeling the load transfer down the blank as you go into the forward stroke. It's not a soft rod but it has a stiff tip that tends to transfer the load right down into the cork. That said if you build one try and shave the cork down to within a micrometer of the blank so you can really feel the load.
  6. Thanks for the input NA. I hear you on the thin cork. The handle on my 9wt Z (my only store bought fly rod) is the diameter of a baseball bat at the business end. I really like the feel of thinner cork handles. Sage claims the thicker handles reduce fatigue but it's not to my liking. Its an iffy game getting the handle really thin. I dont have a lathe but I can buy a skinny cork and by hand bring it down to a conferrable diameter.

    As for lines, I saw that they recommend 3 or 4 different configurations. I'll start with one of the Skagit variants and go from there. If you'd like I can look up and PM them to you.

    Thanks again for the info.

    Anyone else want to chime in?
  7. Good luck with the handle. I sent mine to Meiser and he did a great job. I can feel the cork press against the graphite at its lowest relief. I started with the same line recs but have come to find they don't match my cast. Let me know what you come up with as it seems to be a rod yet to be discovered by a line.
  8. iagree Still trying to figure out my 8129
  9. 600 skagit compact/ 540 scandi
  10. Thanks for the feedback guys. I'm looking fwd to sitting down at the bench and building this rod. Sounds like I'll get a chance to experiment with some line configurations.

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