Shooting my C-spey

Discussion in 'Spey Clave' started by daveypetey, Dec 13, 2012.

  1. )I have been out practicing 2 times so far with my skagit set-up (Echo 7) after watching Skagit Master quite a few times before and after. Once on the grass, and once out in the Sound. While I can get some distance on the grass (maybe 40 or 50') in the sound I can only manage 40'. Is the still water not ideal for practice? I really want to be able to get a little more distance. :(
  2. Still water is actually ideal for practice, as it provides a consistent medium to work with, and allows you to focus on consistency in your set up/cast. For what it's worth, probably the single biggest issue I see with new casters is too much line stick. Distance is going to come from good technique, and after only two practice sessions, I wouldn't expect anyone to have everything dialed in.
  3. Thanks for the input. Line stick? I have not heard that term before.
  4. i've found the C-spey kinda sucks for distance, great for a quick short cast but if you really want some power load up a perry poke
  5. Good to know. Haven't tried the poke yet, only watched it on the DVD. Should I start that one on the grass as well?
  6. the c-spey is a powerful cast and a great cast to learn. keep working at it and you'll get the hang of it.
    Wadecalvin likes this.
  7. "Line stick" refers to how much line is lying on the water as you move into your forward cast. The more line, the "stickier" it is, and the tougher it is to make a clean cast. With a skagit set up, the resistance to load the rod is provided by the sunken tip. The addition of any of that fat shooting head on the water can be problematic. Most beginning casters I see have a real tendency to drop the line on the water during the back cast. A good clue is if you hear a gawdafull "sluuuuurrrrpppppp" as you hit the forward cast.

    The other issue tends to be proper anchor placement, (and not just for beginners.)

    Again, distance comes from good technique. It shouldn't matter what cast you are using.
  8. 40-50 feet on your second time speycasting is not too bad. It took me years to be able to cast okay and I still need work on my cast. You are very lucky to have all the videos, new equipment technology and casting clinics around to help. When I started, there were no videos or no skagit lines. I believe the RIO windcutter had just hit the shelves when I bought my first spey rod. Keep practicing, the distance will happen soon enough.
  9. Fascinating. I thought I wanted the stick to load the rod up. Good to know.
    cebe likes this.
  10. Stick does load the rod during the sweep. However, once you begin your forward cast the too much stick keeps your line from leaving the surface of the water. Inhibiting your cast. You have to find the balance between too much stick and blowing your anchor.
  11. Just for fun I clicked on steve s avatar and it's odd. He's been a member of this forum since Dec. 31, 1969...and he's only 38 yrs old?..not to mention...which internet was that?? Was WFF there?

    Keep casting, just as steve s suggested! Apologies for the highjack.
  12. My join date changed several years back after a forum update/change, not sure what happened and I don't know if I can change it. Not sure exactly when I joined, back in 2001 I think.
  13. Far better to learn 'any' cast actually on the water. Unless you've got a really good (you make your own) 'grass leader,' the anchor loading from grass to water will be very different. PP is a must know cast. Good in its own right for chucking tips, but where it really shines is when you 'blow' almost any other cast. IMMEDIATELY execute the 'Poke and 95% of the time you're right back in business.
  14. I guess I need to watch that video. Years ago when I took my first spey casting lessons, the c-spey was a set-up cast for the double spey cast. It was very similar to the snap-t.
  15. Steve, only two really different casts, and it's equipment/line dependent.

    'Kiss and go' (most) or let the sink head sink (Skagit lines/heads).

    A few odd off's on how the first will work, but the end game is the line/leader just touches the water or with a Skagit you let that head SINK before you rip it out of the water. Can you load a given rod for either? Probably, but you will not get the best of both Worlds.

    Touch and go can be a very flexible rod tip; Skagit's require a "stiff rod tip" (hope I said that right).

    Just a 'trust me on this one,' you can really tell the difference.

    Just looked at my Avatar; Huskers (Husky), now passed. Dear God, did I love that Doggie. Like Sandy, my Yellow Lab, and exceptional Friend.
  16. Oh, I understand the concepts of the casts and lines. I was questioning the name of the cast. The post was about a short distance and when I learned the C-spey, it was a lateral/parallel cast to the bank to get the line in position for a double spey cast. I guess I'd better get that video so I can get the terminology correct.
  17. After watching many casters over the years struggle with distance after setting up with a Cspey, or a Snap T I have found that one of two things happen. First too much time between the landing of the line on the water and the delivery part of the spey cast thus resulting in too much line stick and secondly the location of where the line lands will not allow the line to be easily moved into a straight line with the rod tip that the delivery spey needs to get maximum distance out of the cast. As was suggested a Perry Poke can help get things all in a straight line and help eliminate having too much line stick. I always suggest practicing on the water, either still or moving over grass any day. Even with a grass leader it is hard to replicate the timing with any of the double spey type casts. When practicing take time to focus on different parts of the cast one at a time. I would start with watching where the line lands just before the delivery part of the cast. If not perfect throw a switch cast back down stream and start again until you get comfortable and consistent. Once you can land the set up (C-spey) regularly then move into your delivery cast. Personal instruction is always a good way to get the learning curve shortened and well worth the investment in time and money.

    Good luck
    fredaevans likes this.
  18. I see better what you are talking about now that I thought it through. You are talking about executing a C-spey and then going further and doing a switch cast . That has to be done in one single motion or there is too much line stick. My nephews learned that technique from Aaron Reimer last year and they both do it way better than I can. They are 11 and 12 years old; makes me feel rather inadequate. They use custom built 12'6" rainshadow rods with Ambush lines if that helps.
  19. My two strongest casts R both cackhand- river left, reverse snapT--river right-cackhand snapT.
    Right hand up only caster for years--N no I aint changing!

    Last wk I was lowholing two spawn drifters from the other side of the river:rolleyes:
    130ft from me to the far bank.. Kind of pissed em off when I hit a fish at their feet:D
  20. the cast you choose to perform has nothing to do with distance all the casts are pretty much equal some casts feel more powerful, but it seems to be a different cast for everyone so it's more likely how we preform that cast. without being there to see you cast the best advise i can offer is to slow down and use more bottom hand

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