skagit vs. the world.

Discussion in 'Spey Clave' started by Panhandle, Feb 4, 2011.

  1. Panhandle

    Panhandle Active Member

    Mark, want to split a trip up there?
  2. Red Shed

    Red Shed "junkyard spey"

    skagit vs. the world...the bottom line is:

    How you get the line out and fishing is personal preference so as long as it works and is easy no one should care but the caster. MSB
  3. Ed Call

    Ed Call Mumbling Moderator Staff Member

    skagit vs. the world...the bottom line is:

    Poppy For The Win!
  4. Philster

    Philster Active Member

    I'm with you on rod action. Length, not so much! In fact my favorite rod, which is too big for much of the year where I live is a CND Skagit specialist. I chose it because I was casting all these fast action rods for a day or two at a clave, and when I picked up the Skagit, the first 3 casts I attempted I hit myself with the line! I instantly knew it was the rod for me, and hoped I hadn't permanently screwed up my stroke on those fast sticks!

    I just waded in on a post over on a spey specific board where fast action switch rods were being discussed. Apparently a particular 6 wt sage model requires an outbound 10 wt to load it. 425 for overhead casting exclusively! I couldn't help but wonder what you'd need to spey cast it! :beathead: I bet it's a lot of fun on "6wt" fish too. I could see myself on the Umpqua wondering if I hooked a fish or a leaf...
  5. yuhina

    yuhina Tropical member

    I just keep talking... as we love...

    I have some idea in mind this is what you prefer and I "kind of" can picture how you do it (you know I am "fuzzy" and just like to see it in my eyes... I guess I need to book a trip soon... : ) ) When I saw Al Buhr doing his "chip cast" it was just an amazing moment that brighten my day... Ha...
  6. yuhina

    yuhina Tropical member

    Adam... Thanks!
    You know I am a "lab rat" now... I will working on that... thanks for the invitation!
    I am jealous that you guys are living in the heaven!
  7. Leroy Laviolet

    Leroy Laviolet Aint no nookie like chinookie

    Bet'n he asks to see your "Willy" in the motel, just like in the picture...
  8. Panhandle

    Panhandle Active Member

    Fine, you can come too, Leroy.
  9. thewaker

    thewaker Tight line takes ain't no fakes!!

    No Willy's on the NU whatsoever Adam and that's final.
  10. Panhandle

    Panhandle Active Member

    Ok, I wont drink.
  11. yuhina

    yuhina Tropical member


    All good points and I agree those are all keys to make a "No back cast room" cast.
    I only can speak of Skagit (fat head) line here...

    IMO, Fast action rod actually help, because the same load make less rod bend, less drifting and mess around... like you described that a knight stabbing motion.

    also, the anchor shift out in the front is the key. Noted: every cast NEED back cast to sling the line. but shifting the fulcrum in the front make a illusion that there is no back cast... because the casting center is shift from body to the "front pivot point" = fulcrum. All the line weight behind this fulcrum point is the actual load. That is the reason, as we all know, the fat head line work well... this is the reason I suspect the carron line I posted earlier, has a triangle taper fat head, so the caster (Andrew Toft) can minimize his back room and literally "flip" the line out.

    In addition, by shifting the fulcrum in the front, the caster lost the effective casting leverage. the is the reason I think only very long rod will work, if not using "fat head" line.

  12. fisshman26

    fisshman26 Member

    Another trick with close in stuff is to change the angles of the back cast and cheat on the forward cast.
    Mark, the I can assure you that the Carrons are a little more complex than just a triangle taper ;-)
    For the skagit stuff most prefer a stiff rod because they have a difficult time making the continous motion cast like Ed does and therefore pauses in their cast because of the lack of continous motion and thus compensate with the stiffer rod?????? What do you think Mark. Also wouldnt a softer rod bend under the force of a casting stroke without weight behind it easier than a stiffer rod thus helping the cast????
  13. yuhina

    yuhina Tropical member

    LOL, that's too funny Bruce. Great! I love secret, I will definitely get hooked on those carron!

    Hmmm... are we going to let all secrets out in this thread?! : p

    Ok, First, I have to agree there are definitely two styles in skagit cast. At least.

    Let's say "more" linear motion style.. and it could be as clean as you can get like some great casters (no naming here).

    Also the "more" circular motion style as we see in Ed Ward's cast. As we all know, it utilized the continue move and constant load motion (CM/CL). and please allow me make a disclaimer here: Both styles take high skills to master ALL GOOD!!:thumb:

    I have to agree with you Bruce that CM/CL motion is not as easy as it looks... It is a fairly long stroke, it take times to feel the rotation, it take a right time to transit into back cast and make sure you did not unload the rod during the 45 degree thrust (pivot) and then continue the stroke all the way down. There are more steps shifting in this CM/CL motions, so everything being equal, it is harder for new comers. But I have to agree this style is the most "fluidy" and relaxing once you feel it... And Yes, I agree, compensate to stiffer rod is a good way, because you can easily "shrink" the load into more compact motion, not that "fluidy" but get the boom out there... I THINK, faster rod and a bit heavier line (more stick) will give new comers more tolerant in this (CM/CL) cast...

  14. fisshman26

    fisshman26 Member

    Mark, I would say that ALL styles of casting TAKE PRACTICE to master....thats where skills come from.
  15. yuhina

    yuhina Tropical member

    That's what she says...:clown:

    Well put! Bruce
  16. Salmo_g

    Salmo_g Active Member

    Phew, long thread!

    Phil, re 2 pages ago, that water that I can't reach, whether with Skagit line or another, I call that "conservation water." I don't know how far I can cast beyond those 8 strips; I think not many, but it would vary from rod to rod and line wt. Don't know if you recall our day on the Cowlitz a few seasons ago. I'm Spey casting a lot better, but probably not more than about 20' further.


    I thought that the "ideal" Skagit rod among the Skagit Jedi is a pretty soft action, very deep loading rod. So I'm not sure about your remark. Although I would add that I see a lot of fly casters attempt to solve their casting deficiencies by using faster action rods instead of improving their casting skill. I'll hazard the guess that the reason the used Spey tackle market is so active is that many people are trying to solve their casting problems with equipment changes instead of casting lessons and practice.

  17. Panhandle

    Panhandle Active Member

    A good point made and only draw back of skagits for me is line management and stripping. Fishing the clearwater requires long casts so 5 minutes of stripping in between casts can get real tiring. Standing in a moving current with 30 ft of running line in your hand is a skill all to itself. This is where skandis and longer bellies become attractive.
  18. fisshman26

    fisshman26 Member

    Salmo yep you nailed it the `jedis` like the more moderate rods that bend deep into the but but those lacking in skills compensate with faster rods. Thats whats great about spey for the shops, people think they can buy their way out of casting issues but if they would just focus on practice and getting some hands on instruction it would be way cheaper in the long run.
  19. KerryS

    KerryS Ignored Member

    The best "skagit" stick was/is the 8124. I haven't cast one yet that equals it.
  20. fisshman26

    fisshman26 Member

    Kerry for you it may be but everyone has different body types and limitations and skills so there is not `one` best rod or line.