The Pinprick!

Discussion in 'Fly Tying' started by johnk, Feb 13, 2014.

  1. This pattern originated as a chironomid addict's emergency! In 2005 a friend of mine from Kamloops was camped at Dragon Lake in the Cariboo region of BC for the start of his two week holiday and there were naturals emerging in hordes all day long and he didn't have a thing in his chronie box to match. He phoned me, described the naturals and said a mutual friend would be up at Tunkwa in two hours to pick them up before joining him at Dragon. Well it turns out the pattern was the solution to the problem and the original Dragon Lake Special was born.

    Since that day I've had amazing success with this pattern in all four western provinces but especially in the Parklands of southwestern Manitoba. After an incredible day in June 2011 on Patterson Lake I changed the name to The Pinprick as that was the service it performed that day. I won't quote numbers or sizes but suffice to say I straightened out the hooks on 8 flies. Anyone who has been to the Parklands knows that the fish there are beasts and you need extra strong tippet to coax 'em in.

    Very simple pattern, two colours of UTC70 thread (Wood Duck and Rust), silver or brown beadhead and silver wire rib. The posterior gills are not necessary as I've tied them with and without and haven't noticed any difference.
  2. Since I'm completely new to this Chromie thing, how do you guys get such a smooth coat on your flies?

    I just have a $15 vise (so it obviously doesn't rotate), and I'm using the brush that comes with the nail polish bottle...

    I think someone on a different thread suggested (to someone else) to thin out the SHHN. Should I do that?
  3. If the bottle of SHHN is fairly new you should not need to thin it. The key is to use multiple thin coats so if you are getting any sagging of extra SHHN you are using too much. The person who I learned to tie this style of fly from uses up to 5-6 thin coats.

    Also make sure your thread is flat as you wind the body. Each time you wrap the thread it will start to twist so every few wraps give the bobbin a spin to reverse the twisting to keep the thread flat. The UTC70 is an especially flat thread so makes for a nice thin, flat body.
    Kaiserman and troutpocket like this.
  4. nothing wrong with a $15 vise.
    triploidjunkie and Kaiserman like this.

  5. Well, it's been holding up since '93. :D

  6. I've read/heard that getting the thread flat is the key, but holy cow Batman... what a pain in the @$$ sometimes!

    I tend not to do that when building up the upper portion or thorax. And sometimes (when I get tired) I just say... whatever. :confused:

    I'm using 6/0 thread, and it gets hard to tell sometimes weather it's truly flat or not.
  7. Pick up some UTC 70 thread . . .you'll see a big difference in how flat it lays down compared to others.
    Kaiserman likes this.
  8. I use CCG hydro on all of my mids and a crappy fly can look good like magic. This stuff is a little pricey, but IMO it's completely worth it.
    Eyejuggler and Kaiserman like this.
  9. And smaller diameter thread like troutpocket said, I like danvilles too
    Kaiserman likes this.
  10. I'm all for trying different things, but I think I'll wait until I "graduate" as a chironomid tyer before I buy that stuff. :p

    I wonder what the real difference between that stuff is and SHHN or similar. I'm not questioning your validity of it, just wonder'n...
  11. I have never used SHHN, but the major advantage of CCG is that it dries extremely fast and is very thin. SHHN naturally dries while CCG dries with use of a UV light and it is dry within 5-10 seconds
  12. Um yeah.... I can see that as an advantage! :)
  13. I have tried two different types and I have yet to find one that doesn't dry tacky. I don't want to have to mess with wiping them down with alcohol or something else to remove the tackiness. So I have gone back to Hard as Nails for small flies like Chironomids. If I am doing shellbacks or heads I might consider UV products.

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  14. CCG hydro is tack free!
    Mike Ediger likes this.

  15. While I have heard this claim before for every other UV product I have tried, I am up for trying something new if it will work.
  16. johnk, thanks for joining the forum and sharing your patterns, great stuff. As a die hard indicator guy, I can truly appreciate a good mid.

  17. Never been an indicator guy myself, but I have a funny feeling this coming spring is going to change all that!
  18. Johnk: thks for sharing. Nice fishing story and a very nice fly.

    Btw, what's your preferred method for fishing this fly?
  19. Mike,
    I agree. I tried CCG which claimed to be tack free but it wasn't. Maybe they finally got it right with Hydro.
    Board member Silvercreek sells a tack free uv product I've been using for awhile now. It is tack free and his light is way more powerful then my CCG light.
    Mike Ediger likes this.

  20. I just got silvercreek's stuff, and I like it. I'm not sure I'd call it tack-free--it still has some sort of feeling to the skin when touched. But--and this is important--it doesn't lose it's shine when it's touched. It may not feel like it looks, but it's the look that matters, and this stuff stays shiny after being cured.

    [quote="johnk, post: 909767, member: 7968"}Very simple pattern, two colours of UTC70 thread (Wood Duck and Rust), silver or brown beadhead and silver wire rib. The posterior gills are not necessary as I've tied them with and without and haven't noticed any difference.[/quote]

    Johnk, thanks for posting some of your patterns. I really like the looks of them! Question: is the wood duck thread the abdomen and the rust thread the thorax? I think I'm seeing a color change there, but the body also looks a little multi-colored.
    Mike Ediger likes this.

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