Tips or no tips??

Discussion in 'Spey Clave' started by Sloan Craven, Apr 10, 2006.

  1. As you all know, I've been looking for a lighter rod. So, in addition to looking for rods, I've been looking for reels and lines. I think I may be one of the only people I know that hasn't gotten into a versitip system. I just like to keep things simple, I guess, as the learning curve for Spey is long and steep.
    So I was wondering what people's opinions on a versitip system might be. Do you use all the tips? Would a sinking leader on an intermediate line work the same? Are they wicked fun?
    Now, I know enough not to get the line before I got the rod. I'm just mulling the whole versitip thing over. Just for fun.
    So what do you all think?
     
  2. Versi tip spey lines are pretty cool. They allow you to fish with several different lines by just changing the tip. You dont have to buy a $250 spool for another line. All of my lines are multi tips except one. Do you know which one gets used the least. The one that is not a multi tip. That rod has a Floating WC and only comes out on special occassions. On my other rods, I do use all of my tips except the clear intermidiate. Im a big fan of T8 and T14. You can build your own sink tip and carry a few of those around. They are dirt cheap, so if you lose one, no big deal. It all comes down to personal preference. If you are going to fish trout then a floater would be a good choice. If you want to be able to fish alot of different water with the same rod then a multi tip would be a better choice IMO. I have almost all multi tip lines on both single and two handed rods. I may be a little biased.:D

    I just picked up a Sage 6126. It is a sweet lighter rod. It is a tad over kill on small trout. I broke it in with bull trout in BC and those were a blast on that rod. 20" are real fun and the big bruisers are even more fun. I have a skagit spey 450 and a Mid Spey 6/7 multi tip. I like casting both of them on that rod.
    hope this helps,
    Chris
     
  3. Having the ability to change the tip to get to the desired depth is critical and I find that I use all of the tips that come as part of the package. Just like nymphing for trout, you need to adjust the amount of weight on the line to make sure you're fishing the correct depth and these multi-tip lines allow for the same adjustments based upon current speed and depth.

    With the sink tip compensator, you can really get down if necessary. That said, one will often find steelhead in very soft but deep water and sometimes a type II is all that is necessary to get to the depth one needs. During the summer, I fish a dry line almost exclusively, but during the colder months, I won't leave home without a multi-tip line.
     
  4. Assuming you're not talking about fishing deep/booming water flows another very good option is the 'poly-sinking leaders.' Both RIO and Airflo make them in lengths as short as 5' to as long as 10'. Good thing about these is you run them directly off the end of your dry line.

    From the tip of your dry line put in a (thinking your rod here) 1.5'-2.5' of 20# test STIFF main line/leader material and loop same at the end. The sinking leaders already come looped so you just loop to loop, add a bit of 'regular leader material' at the end + fly(s) and your good to go. If, for some reason, the rig tends to hindge just make your butt section out of heavier # mono (25-30); this will cure the problem.

    Added to this is the short run of mono acts as a 'compensator' and allows the sinking poly leader to dive while allowing the floating line to float. Very effective and I use it all the time in water up to 3-4 foot deep.
    Fred
     
  5. I too use the Rio poly leaders. I have one in 7"/sec and 3.5"/sec. They seem to work great. I have thought about cutting the head of my Mach 1 and buying a couple of deep tips for the winter flows, just haven't found much info about doing this with the Hardy Mach 1 lines.

    :cool:
     
  6. Scott what kind of info are you looking for?
     
  7. I think that the question about a line that is tipped or not can really only be answered after a angler gains more experience on the rivers.I have found that the more I fish with a two hander the less time I spend changeing tips,I usually adjust the cast. If I want the fly deeper, I cast farther upstream and take a couple of steps downstream,if I feel that I am fishing a little to deep I will cast on a angle downstream. At one time I found that I was spending more time changeing the tips and the fly than I was fishing-I now honestly feel that if you buy a regular one piece line and cut off a section 12-15 ft off the tip that you can use for a floating tip,weigh the portion that you cut off,buy a couple of sections of T14 for faster deeper runs and the same sections of T8 for slower shallower runs being sure that the sections weigh about the same as the section that you cut off-I usually go a tad heavier to start because you can always cut a little off as needed and you are all set-I then put the tips in small plastic bags with the weight and length of the tip marked on the bag and you are good to go-As a added bonus the one piece line is often about half the price of a tipped line and they often come up for sale used regularly, just like new on the many forums-especially the Spey Pages-also you can use the sections of T8+T14 on other lines that are close to the correct weight. Really ,what more could you ask for.At this time I have about ten wallets of tips in my shop-when ever I look at them I wonder if their purchase was or was not a good investment.Hope this note helps.

    harleytio
     
  8. This last post by Harleytio is right on. Either make your own tips from t-14, Airflow custom cuts, poly leaders, whatever, or buy a couple of tips separately. Don't lose a lot of sleep over tip wallets. Once you learn how to splice a loop that will go through the guides you'll wonder why you paid so much money for a multi tip line and tip wallet containing more tips than you ever use.
     
  9. Well Red I can't even find a spec sheet on my line. I know that my line is 10/11 wt and is 105' long. I have thought about doing what was stated above about cutting 15' from the tip, using this as my floater and then just buy whatever type I might need for deep flows. Downside is I can't afford to experiment with these lines so I've been searching to see if anyone has made a tips line out of the Mach 1's so as to see what measurements they might have used.

    Does this babbling make any sense?

    :cool:

    I just checked out your site Red...the mach 1 that I have is 54' at 572 grns. That just doesn't seem like enough weight for my rod. (Forcast 14 9/10)
     
  10. **********************
    I think that you will find some very good advice on your situation if you take the time to use the search section on the Spey Pages forum-if that does not work, click onto the sponsor`s section and send a message off to one of those men-most of them have already forgotten more than most of us will ever learn.I am sure that you will find that there is a easy solution.

    harleytio
     

  11. Scott I know of no other place on the web besides my Hardy page to get the head weights for the Hardy Mach 1 lines. After many contacts with Hardy USA (Cortland) for the head length and weight info with no success I started to weigh the lines myself. The info posted on my Hardy page is from actual weights of the various sizes using a digital scale. I just weighed another 10/11Mach 1 (tan colored box) and to the color change the head weighed 578grns.

    Hardy Mach 1 lines were changed about a year ago and a Mach 1 10/11 from earlier (light yellow box) will weigh around 640grns. It is possible you have one of these lines. If you do @ 16'4" it should weigh about 138grns.

    Anyone with a postal scale can tell you how much the head of your Mach 1 weighs. One ounce = 437.5 grains.

    I agree with Harley home made tips work as good as anything out there, are economical, and aren't that hard to do.
     
  12. Guess what:
    The main man that I always go to for advice is Mike at Redshed-He will never steer you wrong-There are other real good guys to ask and so you should,but after all been said and done,you can always trust MR. HOWDY (MIKE)--

    harleytio
     
  13. Sloan,
    My recommendation, from hard earned dollars wasted, would be to buy a straight floater for floating line work and then a tip line. For tips, depending on your waters, you will more than likely find yourself fishing a 15' type VI 90%+ of the time. So buy a tip line with a 15' type VI and a type VIII and call it good.
    Chris
     
  14. Thanks Mike, the box I have is the tan one.

    :cool:
     

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