Transport ideas or wheel designs for my pram

Discussion in 'Watercraft' started by yellowlab, Mar 19, 2009.

  1. I'm wondering what you guys have built, fabricated or use for wheeling your boats into areas like Nunally or Lenice? It will need to have it work for something that is 70 lbs to 100 lbs. I was thinking of a kids bike fork and wheel combo retrofit with a clamp to the transom of the pram. Let's see your creative projects.


  2. Paul,

    I recommend getting a clamp on BMX stem mount that uses four bolts and has a removable face plate, not a hinged one integrated. You can then mount that four hole bolt pattern to your desired location on your boat. Then fit a fork into that stem mount. You should be able to cut the steerer tube quite short so as to only insert the depth needed for the stem. Drill side to side through the stem and fork's steerer tube (make sure it is straight in alignment) and then you can use a quick pin insertion, removal for putting it together. Add your bike wheel, large or as small as you like, smaller will likely suffice, and you are money. The four bolt BMX stems are pretty bomb proof and should hold your pram's weight handily.

    I use a different system on my pontoon, but it has some similarities. Mine clamps onto a square tubing section and I adjust it, but other than that it is a travel fork mount and small wheel, a 14" one I think. It all stowes pretty small. If you want to see mine I can post a pic, but it is much different than what I would attach to a rigid hull vessel like yours.

  3. Use a two wheel assembly. Less effort needed since you won't have to balance the thing while moving it.
  4. Paul,

    I have an 8' wooden pram. Probably weighs in around 100 lbs. I made a 2 wheel cart that straps to the bottom of boat for transport. The wheels fold up in storage. I probably have less than $50 in parts. Of course you could go buy one at around $100. I don't have any pictures but I could get off my dead a-- and go take some. :)

  5. Ok, I went and took some pictures. Pic 1 is boat on trailer ready for transport. #2 is cart folded in the bow. #3 is cart on ground folded. #4 is cart ready to accept boat. The strap I use to hold the boat on the trailer is the same one I use to strap the carrier on the bottom of the boat. When installing the carrier at the trailer I just pull the boat off the trailer a short distance and then strap the carrier on the bottom. When loading from the ground I use the peg in the center to hold the carrier upright. I also put wheel chocks (not shown) behind the wheels and just pull the boat up on the carrier.

    On the boats maiden voyge I used the carrier at Gibbs Lake. Note I did have some help pulling her up the hill out of there.


    Attached Files:

  6. Ed,

    I was trying to visualize this and it seems like a slick plan, but Im not sure if I want to drill holes into my Koffler Pram or if the BMW stem would be tall enough, since I've got 20" of freeboard and I wouldn't want to the holes too low below the water line. I'll have to think about this a little more, but I like the idea of the steerer tube fitting inside the forks and using the quick release pin to remove.

    I don't mind drilling into the Jon boat, but I'll have to think of something else...

    Thanks for the idea! Do you mind posting a pic of your finished product?

  7. Thanks Mike for taking time to explain and showcase the photos. I already have a 'dolly' carrier that I used with my Spring Creek Pram, but the wheels are too small for transporting across, mud and sand. I would like to incorportate thinner but bigger diameter wheel(s) with knobby tires. I want to keep the inside of my boat as open and free as possible without a whole lot of gear, as I already take it all minus the kitchen sink.

    Awesome ideas fellas!, Thanks for the suggestions...keep em coming and I'll show you what I end up deciding on doing.

  8. Paul,

    I had to store the dolly somewhere. At the lake I leave it in the back of the tow vehicle. Just wanted to set the record straight. :thumb:

  9. Yes, that sounds like a good idea. Have you used your dolly to take your pram into Lenice or Nunally? I've not fished Gibbs, so Im not aware of the terrain. Im just pram crazy and would like if all possible to get my boats to fish the stillwater most efficiently.


  10. Paul, I fully understand not wanting to drill. I've got a couple of other ideas, but how about posting some pics of where you might want to attach it. I will try to show you what I did for my pontoon after supervised shower and bedtime routine has passed. Knowing where you want to mount the wheel or two wheels would be a benefit for my tingering mind. Ed
  11. I bought a product called a Wheel-a-Way at Westside Marine in Bellevue. It has inflatable tires and easily disassembles. It is designed to haul a small row boat or dinghy. I adapted mine to carry my pontoon boat into Lenice and it works great. It works even better for it's intended purpose which requires no modification. It cost about $100. bucks. You should check it out.:thumb:
  12. Paul,
    Go with the Wheel-a-way it's probly the best one on the market,I use mine for my pram going in to several lakes works like a million bucks,lower air for rough trails add for smooth,fully loaded my sent up comes in around 100-125 lbs,I've even put my buddies pontoon on top.just adjust air and go..p.s that 10' boat you got from me also worked great on that set-up..

  13. Paul, I've gone through a similar search for wheels for my boat that would be easy to attach and remove, and not require drilling holes. I went through several failed ideas before settling on what (I believe) should be a winner.


    2 heavy duty sliding/ratcheting bar clamps long enough to fit over the whole gunwale (~$10-$15 each at harbor freight). The ones I got have two holes pre-drilled at one end of the bar.

    A foot of aluminum L angle.

    Two wheels of your choice. Bicycle wheels would be good - I am using 10" dolly wheels, also from harbor freight ($5 each).

    Appropriately sized stainless bolts and nylon or brass spacers to serve as axles.

    The bar clamps are attached to the sides of the boat, near the back. The aluminum angle fastened to the end of the bar clamp is necessary to give you have a perpendicular surface on which to mount your wheels. The wheel assembly can then be attached and removed without permanently altering the boat at all.
  14. Herl, that setup sounds cool...any chance you'd share a photo?
  15. I'll work on that, but I'm going to be out of town for a bit.. To pass the time, you can work on getting your shirt back on..

    sorry, it's hard not to say something.
  16. In the meantime while I'm shirt shopping, mind loaning my your little one's hat?
  17. No problem. Now.. if I can just figure out how to get it into the computer.. where's my hat drive?
  18. A picture is worth a thousand words... would love to see the finished product. I am sort of having a visual, but if I had a part # for those racheting clamp bars, it'd be a heck of alot easier to conceptualize your transport system. I like Harbor Freight, like a kid in a candy store...and there is one in Redmond, I believe... =)
  19. Paul that is close but the clamp was a step or two 'beefier' than that one. They have them at the Redmond store - 3 or 4 different sizes - and are labelled 'heavy duty clamp'. I can't find them on the website either..

    Sorry to leave you hanging but I don't think I'll have pictures for a week or so..

    The axle is made up of a stainless bolt through the aluminum angle, and through the spacers/bushings, and I actually used some wide PVC tubing to get it the fit into the dolly wheel just right - the wheel has bearings so you don't have to worry about that. Large washers on either side of the wheel. I spent a lot of time at Hardwicks to get all the right sized pieces..

    I don't have mine all together yet but the only potential problem I see is the clamp slipping (front --> back) on the bottom of the boat. I may have to add some kind of soft rubber, grippy thing to bottom jaw of the clamp. If your boat has too much of a vee, that could also make it hard for the clamp to hang on. Another thing that could make it difficult is if the sides of your boat are not straight down, or very close to it. The alternative would be to clamp the wheels to the transom - in this case you could do away with the aluminum angle. But then the wheels would have to fit entirely below the bottom of the boat, so they'd either have to have a very small diameter or your boat would be riding very high on the wheels and may be difficult to maneuver.

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