Transporting my NFO Renegade

Discussion in 'Watercraft' started by Milanmark, Jun 23, 2014.

  1. Milanmark

    Milanmark New Member

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    Well I bought my first pontoon, I think the Renegade will be a good fit for me! Now on to the rigging, figuring out how to transport etc! My biggest thing will be transporting it... searched and found some things here but thought I would start a new thread. For local trips I will probably leave setup and use my utility trailer to transport. For long trips it will be deflated and in a boat bag of some sort. I will have to experiment but I could also partly deflate and partly fold up and stick in the back of my Escape. Thinking of float trips I take on vacation it would also be nice to put up on my roof rack for local transport. I would buy some longer crossbars and 2-3 inch wide web straps to tie down. Just wondering if that's a good idea, I did read a negative comment about that creating a leak in a frameless pontoon. I have seen lots of framed ones on roof racks (all for local transport). Ideas and comments please!
     
  2. Freestone

    Freestone Not to be confused with freestoneangler

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    Skip the 2-3" wide straps. You just need normal rafting/boating cam straps. This type of strap is found on every raft and is used to secure the frame to the boat and to secure all manner of gear. They are also used for transport to secure the boat and/or frame to a vehicle or trailer. Buy them in different lengths and buy more than you think you'll ever use because just like fly rods, you can never have too many and you will always need one more than you have. I have dozens, from 1' to 15', with the longer ones used to tie down boats to the car and the 1-6' straps used to tie down gear to my boats.

    http://www.nrs.com/product/1440/nrs-1-hd-tie-down-straps
     
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  3. Milanmark

    Milanmark New Member

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    Those are awesome straps! Very similar to the Thule straps I had for my kayak rack, I can see me ordering a bunch right now! Since I don't have a frame to attach to do you think any harm would come to the pontoons? That material is so heavy can't imagine the straps would do harm. Just if I tied down too tight it would effectively increase the pressure and pop a weld?
     
  4. Freestone

    Freestone Not to be confused with freestoneangler

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    Hopefully someone who owns/owned one can chime in, but I've lashed various watercraft to my roof over the years so here's my 2 cents:

    1. Don't transport it full of air either in the rig or on top; always let a little to a lot out as changes in temps and elevation will cause the air to expand and could pop it. Think about any elevation and temp changes along your route and adjust accordingly. On long trips, check the straps periodically as they can loosen.
    2. If I were transporting one on the roof, except for maybe short hops while shuttling, I'd take off the pockets, seat, oars, rod holders, etc. - unless I ran a strap over them securing. You don't want crap flying off and causing an accident. Always plan for the worst case scenario and remember that someone else's life is worth more than an extra minute of set-up/tear-down for you. If in doubt, take it off.
    3. Based on photos if I were putting it on top, I'd run a long cam strap up through a side D ring over the tube and down through the other side D ring, around your bar/post and back over top to the other bar/post. Repeat for the other side D ring(s). This will serve to keep the straps from shifting fore/aft but you won't be placing any force on the D ring itself. I'd also consider a strap across the 'bow' part of the tubes so they don't try to lift up/take off.
    4. If I were stripping all the accessories off to put it on top and I had room, I might just go ahead a stick it inside either totally or partially deflated as you could probably blow it up faster than strapping/unstrapping it.
    5. Unless you're Superman and the tube is already over-inflated, I don't think I'd worry abut tightening a cam strap too tightly and popping it. If you already have some Thule straps, you're one step ahead. I have many brands of these 1" cam straps and for your intended use, they are pretty much the same.
     
  5. Blue

    Blue Active Member

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    I like the NRS straps because they don't stretch when wet. Many do. I even use them on my strap on anchor or rod holders instead of the stock Scotty straps. Deflate the boat before strapping but try not to create creases from the strap. Check it as temp changes or elevation. This also applies in the going from Cold to Hot, and higher elevations to lower as you may want to pull over at times and check it.
    However, the boats are pretty durable. Just don't forget they are inflatables.
    I will travel from 4,800 feet to 11,000. I start off with a slightly soft boat and I am good when I get there.

    I do totally agree on the putting strap on accessories on a soft boat them inflate. Specially the motor mount. Renegade can take 3 lbs of air. A Gauge is pretty nice.
     
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  6. Milanmark

    Milanmark New Member

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    This is such a great forum! Lots of ideas thanks everyone! Even though I like to pimp out my new boat after awhile it gets old especially since I am so picky, took me two years to figure out where to locate my rod holder on my yak. Flush mount so 1" hole... can't take it lightly!
    Anyways:
    Freestone; Good advice on all points, my Dad used to tell me when I first got a trailer, make sure the load is tied down as you are responsible if something comes off and causes an accident! I always stripped off all accessories with my kayak, will do the same here, you never know! I agree all points!
    Blue; always cracks me up about the concerns over elevation... I'm from Michigan so everything is pretty much 1000' above sea level +/-! Even a coupla hundred feet with temp changes could be a concern, point taken. Renegade can take 3lbs of air? I pumped mine up to where it met the thumb test of NFO and the K gauge read 1#! Not sure if the gauge is bad or what.
    Called Dave today and he said no problem tying 'toon to roof rack, said many have done it upside down which lessens wind resistance.
     
  7. Blue

    Blue Active Member

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    We have hauled many of our NFO on the roof. This one being the easiest...LOL
    [​IMG]
     
  8. Greg Armstrong

    Greg Armstrong Active Member

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    Wow, you must have lost a lot of elevation on that trip - that pontoon is compressed down to nuthin' ! LOL
     
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  9. Milanmark

    Milanmark New Member

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    P6250024m.jpg P6250018m.jpg So did my maiden voyage, decided to partly deflate it and fold it up some and stick it in the back of my Escape, worked great! Looks sloppy but it works! Have an electric pump so didn't take long at the lake. If I used my trailer I could keep it inflated but have to hook up the trailer etc so there are tradeoffs just as easy to stick in the back, still may want to put it up on the roof rack sometime, there again tradeoffs, can keep inflated but should take off the bags seat etc... I had trouble when rowing, hitting the side bags, on my list to move! Didn't get the oars, they are supposed to be the same and they are tilted, the right one the blade is tilted forward, the left tilted backward. What's up with that? I can fix by drilling a hole on the other side for the spring loaded push button. Wouldn't I want the blade straight up and down? At a minimum they need to be tilted the same way I would think, opinions welcome! Coupla pics attached.
     
  10. Blue

    Blue Active Member

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    I am confused on the oars. There is no right or left. On the blade, one side curves up the other side down. There are like hash marks on opposite sides of each blade. That is the curve up side. The smooth is the curve down side. They are a loose S shape sort of. Again there is no right or left. It makes no difference on this style oar.
    Bags, I have a 36" inseam, I had to slide my bags back as well
     
  11. Milanmark

    Milanmark New Member

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    P6250026m.jpg These are the aluminum oars, I don't have my composite oars yet.
    Attaching a pic, the hole for the oarlock pin is vertical. The blade is tilted to the left. Imagine this on the right side of the pontoon the blade is tilted forward. Now think of it on the left side and the blade is tilted backward! The NFO sheet says they are the same, I look at them and they are the same. So just like the picture when on the right the tilt is forward, swing around 180 degrees and the tilt is backward. Clear as mud? LOL
     
  12. Blue

    Blue Active Member

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    Looks like all mine. If you flipped the oar over, the picture would be the same. As I said an S. Yes the ridges are up on right side of boat and down on the other side, but with the S shape on each oar, It doesn't matter. They move the water the same. They are all I use on my Fuzion, Assault and my Predator and work just fine. The Composite are nice, no denying that though. I have a pair but too long for these boats as they were for my Reny. I will re drill them for the Assault.
     
  13. Milanmark

    Milanmark New Member

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    The blades on these oars are flat! If you could line them up and look from the side xray style the blades would form an X. So one blade is cutting into the water and the other is a trailing edge. Moving the water 2 different ways and it sure wasn't smooth!
     
  14. Blue

    Blue Active Member

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    I am not seeing what you are. The blades are not flat. One end of the blade slightly curves up, the other end curves down. This is so you can row forward or backward.
    I am all out of answers here.
     
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  15. Milanmark

    Milanmark New Member

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    Well thanks for trying to help me, I appreciate it. Will call Dave today to see what light he can shed on this. I can easily fix by drilling a hole so the blades line up the way I think they should but I want to make sure before I do. The oars hitting the bags are the bigger issue for sure. Thanks again!
     
  16. Milanmark

    Milanmark New Member

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    Best I can do to try and simulate, dowel thru oarlock holes represents oarlock pin, vertical, near side represents right oar blade tilted right, far side is left and blade tilted left. I will change it probably so the blades are straight up and parallel to the oarlock pins. I have a headache... LOL P6260039m.jpg P6260038m.jpg
     
  17. Blue

    Blue Active Member

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    Call Dave. It looks like the hole is off from the blade. I looked at the four pair we have and they are all a straight line to the blade.
     
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