Trying Different Chironomid Technique

Discussion in 'Stillwater' started by Mike Wilson, Apr 10, 2009.

  1. I have been fishing with chironomids for years but have always used the bobber technique with quite a bit of success. It is for this reason I did not change until today. I always disliked using the long leaders with a bobber, or corkie. I did not even mess with the deep pools where fish sometimes hold. Long leaders make it hard to cast, landing the fish must be done by hand if the leader is too long, it was just a pain. I have listened to people on this forum talk about using full sinking class V or VI line with out a bobber and tried it. I marked the bottom using hemostats on the hook. Counted the number of pulls to the bottom then added 10'. I decided not to anchor and let out what I thought was the right amount of line and just drift. I had to continue to let out a little line until I hit bottom then bring things back up just a bit. It worked out well, as soon as I had the depth right bam, bam bam, just like clock work. I thought it was a better way to get to the fish holding in the deeper pools. I used to ignor the holes deeper than 15" because of the hassles associated with long leaders and corkies... now I have a new interest in using chironomids deep. If you haven't tried this you may want to give it a whirl, I am glad I did. :thumb:
     
  2. add a small section of t-14 (5 feet?) on there and it becomes easy to fish depths of 30 plus feet. the same technique is also deadly with other flies. careys, micro leeches, rigged with trailing chiros.

    ive also been experimenting with crawling crayfish patterns in this manner.....

    food for thought.
     
  3. Chironmids fish best when moved very slowly(natural movement).
     
  4. I actually used a version of a Hale Bop I tie in combo with a black size 18 chironomid. I caught 2 on the leech.
     
  5. For deep water indicator fishing try making a quick release sliding indicator:

    Take a Q-tip stem and cut it to the length of your favorite hard foam indicator.
    Take a lighter and melt a small lip on one end of the cut Q-tip stem. This allows you to grab the Q-tip stem when mounted into the indicator to disengage it to make depth adjustments.
    Drill out the indicator to the diameter of the cut Q-tip stem.
    You now have a quick release sliding indicator.

    To install:
    Slide the melted lip end of the Q-tip stem on your leader first towards the fly line.
    Then your drilled out indicator.
    Tye your fly or flies on.

    Adjusting the depth:
    Slide the Q-tip stem and indicator up the leader to the depth you want to fish.
    Put the Q-tip stem and a little bit of folded leader off the end of the Q-tip stem into the indicator, pinching some leader inside the indicator and fixing the indicator from sliding on the leader.

    When a fish is hooked the Q-tip stem is pulled out of the indicator, releasing the pinched leader. The Q-tip stem and indicator slides down the leader to your fly or flies allowing you to land your fish in a easy manner. With this quick release sliding indicator I'll fish leaders as long as 25' and still be able to land my fish easily. Casting that long of leader works best when you have a little bit of wind. Make a short cast and then feed fly line out as the wind pulls your indicator farther out to the desired fishing distance.
     
  6. I also used to only fish chironos with the bobber tecneque. i had done ok but the last few times i started using my sinking line like you said. way more success because i feel it is just way easier to adjust to all different depths of the lake. before i only fished the 10-15 ft areas. and some times when you don't have a fish finder you end up drifting off your ideal depth and then your just wasting your time. using the hemo's with the sinking line is the way to go . IMO
     
  7. I agree.

    I talked to a Canadian flyfisherman that uses sections of t-14 with a short leader and attaches this to Amnesia(i.e. no fly line). He swears by this system when fishing deep and it gives him the sensitivity needed to detect subtle strikes.

    I have yet to apply this technique.
     
  8. Do you connect the T-14 using a braided loop? Never built a custom sinking line before, maybe it is something I need to do after this experience at Pass.
     
  9. I just had an idea. Use the striaght down tecnique when drift fishing using a leech pattern tied on a jig hook, then it eill ride up horizontaly more
     
  10. I have fished with the full sinking line method and have had some success. But I started to have a lot more success when I went to a long leader and a slip strike indicator. If the fish are really keyed in at a certain depth then the floating line and indicator keeps the fly at the proper depth for way longer than a full sinking line. Plus with a small split shot above the fly I find that I get to the depth I want to fish much quicker than waiting for the line to sink.
     
  11. Mike, one can wind drift with that method as well. I 've had that work wonders at times.
     
  12. Knowing the importance of depth how do you get the indicator back to the same depth without using your hemostats each time to check where to reset the indicator? I think I am going to mark my sinking line with stripes every 5 feet. One stripe for 5 two stripes for 10 etc.. That way I will be able to count the stripes and mulitpy by 5, and if my math is good know exactly where I was when the fish hit. It feels like I will be able to get back to the zone without remeasuring, or counting the number of pulls from the reel. I still think I will use indicators in the 10' to 15' range as that was really effective for me, but feel this newly discovered technique will allow me mobility and quicker changes from leeching to chironomiding and therefore keep me fishing longer... hopefully translating into more trout to hand.
     
  13. Mike

    Really the best way if you are going to be switching between chironomid fishing and stripping leeches is to have two rods rigged. I almost always have two rigged and a buddy usually has three rods ready to go.
     
  14. That is what I do. I always have one set up for chironomids, and one for leech's. When I stop leeching it seems like you have to drop anchor, set the depth, mess with the indcatior, mess a little more with the indicator you know the drill. I felt like I just had to switch rods and find the bottom. I did not anchor, but just used my fins to keep me in place. I even drifted with this set up and it worked well. I could just be infatuated with it because it is a new method and seems a little more interesting to me right now. I am considering carrying one set up for dry fly / emeregers too. Too many rods could be a problem. If I have one set up for leech's, one for indicator, one with a full sink, and one for dry fly that would be four rods. Maybe I need to make up my mind.:):)
     
  15. Mike, Good on ya for experimenting. I guess you CAN teach an old dog new tricks! :rofl:

    And I agree that if youre in a pontoon or tube, it can be tough using the indicator technique. I noticed that fishing from a driftboat or raft sits you up higher and makes it a little easier and safer to cast those 15'+ leaders.

    I will have to try your sinking line technique. That sounds like a really neat way to fish. Plus it seems that drinking makers all day makes my bobber "bobb" a little more than i'd like it to. :beer2:
     
  16. This has been a great discussion. Being new to fly fishing generally and chironomid use specifically I don't have much personal information to offer. However I did buy the book "Morris & Chan on Fly Fishing Trout Lake" which is loaded with great information. I also obtained a book by Phil Rowley on tying Stillwater Flies which also contains a ton of information.

    If you are a rookie like me and are interested in Stillwater fly fishing I don't think you can go wrong with information provided by these three experienced fly fishing authors. I have been fortunate to attend presentations by Skip Morris and Phil Rowley who are excellent speakers. I know these are friends from North of the boarder, but their views should be equally relevant in the PNW.

    Mike
     
  17. you can never have too many rods!

    right now im packin a 5wt with 3 spools and lines. usually deep and leechy or a floater and an emerger. then a 6wt and floater (chiros) or an intermediate (streamer) and then i have an 8wt with 6 inches of bunny, deer and bird hanging there.

    the system gray ghost describes (unless i missed the point) is a quick release indicator that comes in 3 sizes and 2 colors and retails for a buck ($1 USD) at pacific fly fishers.

    anyways they are money for fishing deep. just dont set the peg too tight or else the fish wont pop it loose. set it too loose and it will break free on the cast.

    the line tends to kink (not kink more of a curly q) where you peg it. so re-setting your depth isnt too big a deal. a sharpie also solves this dilemma. its a killer setup so long as you rig your leader correctly (basically all tippet) and its my go to when fishing 20' or less. 20' plus on a calm day..... sinking line time my friend.

    tight lines ballers.
     
  18. iagree---------Good description Gray Ghost! :thumb:
     
  19. You are right on. Their are a few commercial quick release sliding indicators sold. They usually have a heavier plastic slide stems adding more weight to the indicator than making your own using a Q-tip stem. My favorite choronomid indicator right now are the football shaped Frog Hair indicators with the added quick release sliding Q-tip stem, they float high to see easy and cast well. As far as resetting to the previous depth, you are right, you get a little kink in the leader where it was set previously. You will get a few kinks up and down your leader from the previous depths you fished at. Once you know you are close on the leader from your previous adjustment, just look for the kink in the leader and reset.
     

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