Tying the Shrimpzoid

Discussion in 'Patterns' started by Matt Burke, Jan 24, 2005.

  1. Matt Burke Active Member

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    I’m reposting this photo as a larger file so that you can see them a little better and the possibilities of different color schemes. I’ve timed it and it takes an hour and fifteen minutes to tie each one. (photo 56)
  2. Matt Burke Active Member

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    I start with two EC 413 hooks. Right now I am using 1/0 but will be going smaller for summer run Steelhead and Coho in the Sound this spring. The first one I cut at the halfway point on the straight part of the shank and throw away the eye (photo 1). The second I straighten the bend a bit and cut off the hook and barb and throw away (photo 2 & 3).

    I take a flat file and rough up the shank so that the curved tail and stinger have something to hold onto and then file down the cuts so they are round. If you don’t, they will cut your thread as you apply material (photo 4 & 5).

    I start off with Kevlar thread and super glue. Tie the curved tail shank in to the straight shank with an X pattern, layering the super glue and thread (photo 6, 7 & 8).

    Wrap forward and tie in the point with more layers of thread and super glue (photo 9 & 10).
  3. Matt Burke Active Member

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    I cut a piece of rabbit for the stinger. The hide of the straight cut rabbit should be the length of the straight shank. I thread 50 pound gel spun through a needle and run it through the hide in a weave with the loop coming out on the hair side a quarter inch from the end (photo 11, 12 & 13).

    I loop a Gamakatsu Octopus hook with the hook point up as it would ride in the water. (1/0 pictured here but you would go smaller for 5 to 10 lb. Fish) (photo 14 & 15).

    Run the hook point through the last quarter inch of hide and let it rest hook point up. Pull the gel spun up tight and parallel with the hide (photo 16 & 17).

    Now this next step you may elect to avoid, but I ride this fly deep and once I’m on the bottom I change the tip to bring it up just off the rocks. I find that tying the hook into the hide with the point up keeps me from hanging up 95% of the time. If you don’t tie it in, the hook will turn and you have to keep adjusting it in the hide. Using a smaller needle, I thread up some Kevlar thread then up through the hide and through the eye and back down through the hide (not through the eye the second time) on the left side. One more time coming out the eye and back through the hide on the right side. You should end up with both threads coming out the hairless side. Square knot that off and just a dab of super glue will keep it in place (photo 18, 19 & 20).
  4. Matt Burke Active Member

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    The eyes are done on 50 lb. Mono. I take a lighter and heat the end so that I get just a big enough ball that the bead wont come off. Mix up some epoxy and then dip the bead end (not the bead) into it. Slide the bead end down to the little ball. The excess glue will hang like a little drop off the ball of mono. Just a quick swipe on a paper towel will get rid of it. I don’t care about excess on the mono. I put duct tape sticky side out on the edge of a table. As each eye is done, I stick the mono to the tape and let hang dry (photo 22, 23 & 24).

    I wrap .030 lead 15 times (this is what gets it down and ride the right way. I will be using less and thinner lead for smaller flies for the summer) around the curved tail that hangs down and wrap with Kevlar thread. The little hump I wrap too with just Kevlar thread so that material has something to hang on to, otherwise material will slip off the hump. Then I coat it all with Softex (photo 25).

    Using more Kevlar thread, I tie in the rabbit stinger. The gel spun will run along the top and wrap with Kevlar and super glue. Fold back the gel spun and wrap with Kevlar and super glue. Then rewrap the whole section covering gel spun and super glue (photo 26,27 & 28).
  5. Matt Burke Active Member

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    Continuing with Kevlar thread and super glue, I tie in the mono eyes on the sides. Beads should come right about where the eye of the stinger is (photo 29). I think most fish are tail biters when they are just aggravated with an intruder. That may be why leech patterns work with a stinger hook so well. When they are really aggressive they will go for the head of the fly. I’m not sure, but they more than likely use the eyes as a focal point. With this fly you will get the advantage of both, the trade mark wiggle of rabbit tail and the eyes in the same area.

    Before I tie in a wad of buck tail on the bottom of the shank, I hold the tips and strip out the short hairs. I save these and put into a stacker for later. I wrap the whole thing with Kevlar and glue (photo 30 & 31). Now I know your thinking, man this must own a lot of super glue and Kevlar. Your damn right. As a Spey caster, I am brutal with my flies. I also tack most tie in points with super glue on any fly. Some folks may say, well a good tier doesn’t need glue. I’m sure that is fine when it goes into a shadow box, but I only tie working flies. I’m a rock banging , take missing fool, but my flies will last through it all. I also don’t think I have less takes with the scent of super glue.

    From now I use orange 6/0 or 8/0 thread. I take ¼ inch orange scud back and cut a V into the end and tie onto the end over the rabbit. Flip the excess back over the top of the V tip and tie again. This gives a cleaner look to the segments as you work your way up the shank (photo 32, 34 &35).

    A couple wraps of large cactus chenille (photo 35).

    A couple wraps of hackle flash, then pull the hackle flash into a beard and while holding that in position, wrap it with thread into place (photo 36 & 37).

    Tie in orange Lady Amherst for tentacles (photo 38). Now you will notice how the large cactus chenille and hackle flash will hold the Amherst out and away from the body.
  6. Matt Burke Active Member

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    The regular chenille I tie a couple times along the top to bulk up the hump of the shell. Once back and then forward to the start of the wrap is good enough. Then wrap the chenille. Each segment is 1/3 of the shank to the start of the bend in the tail (photo 39, 40 & 41).

    I give the Cactus chenille a little haircut on to before I flip the Scud back (photo 42).

    Flip the shell back over the chenille and tie in. Then flip it forward again and tie in. This flip and tie in thing is done at every segment all the way to the curved tail tip (photo 43 & 44).

    The middle segment is a repeat of the first segment (photo 45).

    Now the last segment is the same except there is no hackle flash. It gets really tight tying around the bend of the tail. Wrap the chenille to just past the eye (photo 46).
  7. Matt Burke Active Member

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    Now to get the latex scud back to go over the eye, I just barely puncture a tiny hole about where the eye would come out when the scud back is stretched around the curve. Then take the eye out of the vise, the tiny hole will stretch far enough to allow the eye to go through the scud back material, then put the eye back into the vise and tie down the scud back (photo 47, 48 & 49).

    To help with finishing the curved tail, I wrap the excess scud back around the material on the straight shank to keep it out of the way (photo 50).

    Now I strip the fuzz off some orange schlappen and take a black permanent marker and make it a barred schlappen and tie that into the next segment (photo 51 & 52).

    The next two segments I wrap chenille and the barred schlappen to the tip. I trim the schlappen fibers where the scud back will go (photo 53).

    Now take the buck tail you saved and stacked and tie into the tip of the tail. Take the scud back and make your last shell segment and tie in where the buck tail is tied in. No flip back required, it will lay along the buck tail. Cut the scud back so that it will cover half of the back tail tip (photo 54).
  8. Matt Burke Active Member

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    Whip finish and cover with softex as it will just be an extension of the latex scud back . This is the final product (photo 55). You must fish this with a non-slip mono loop knot.
  9. DLoop Creating memories one cast at a time

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    Washington.
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    Geez Matt! It must have taken you forever to put together all these pictures and text. You might as well do a few more 'zoids' like we discussed and just publish a book. You are halfway there already.

    Seriously, we are very fortunate to have tyers like you that will take the time to share so the rest of us can learn. Thank you!
  10. Oneweight Member

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    Seattle, Washington.
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    Matt,

    This is alot of work and thx for taking the time to put this up. What a killer pattern. I'm going to take a swag at it and will fish the Shrimpzoid proudly in your name. Excellent work, man.
  11. Tony Tony

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    Lynnwood Wa
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    Hey Matt, thanks for the details and all the cool pics
    tony
  12. metalhead New Member

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    SOLDOTNA, ALASKA, US.
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    awesome fly dude!!so, has the shrimpazoid resulted in steel to the hand yet??
  13. Matt Burke Active Member

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    I just tied the first one last week. Since then, everyone and his mother wants the flies I do get tied. Good thing the rivers have been blown the whole time so I have had time to do the tying and the photos. If you look at most of your Steelhead flies, ninety percent are shrimp imitations and certainly not very accurate ones. If you look close at my work, it is pretty sloppy. But I had a watercolor instructor back in college tell me one time, "If you get the general shape of the body right and make the eyes perfect, people wont give a crap what the rest of the painting looks like."

    The rivers are coming into shape now. I will keep you updated.
  14. Oneweight Member

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    Seattle, Washington.
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    Matt - How long are these tip to tail?
  15. Matt Burke Active Member

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    3 to 3.5 inches.
  16. Davy Active Member

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    SIlverton, OR
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    Matt- 1 hour and 15 min to tye? It took me 1 hour and a 1/2 to read the instructions let alone tye it!.

    Well done,great post and instructions!

    Davy
  17. Backyard SANCHO!

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    The River, WA.
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    Badass pattern for sure Matt.. but here's the million dollar question...

    Has it caught fish yet? :D
  18. Matt Burke Active Member

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    Thanks Davy. I have great appreciation for the books I have like John Shewey's with all the instructions. I just can't imagine all the pictures and flies that never made it.

    Chris, OK, I have only fished with it twice now. How long do I have before I'm considered a failure?
  19. Big K1 Large Member

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    Duvall, WA, U.S.A.
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    Matt,

    You Have till the Kaufmans clave. If you have not hooked a fish by then I will have to confiscate your supply and paraphenilia. :thumb:
  20. Matt Burke Active Member

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    I am going to catch one at the Clave. I had that killer take in front of everyone last year. This time I'm going to keep him on longer that 5 seconds. How dare Steelhead humiliate me in front of hundreds of my peers.