UV resin

Discussion in 'Fly Tying' started by WA-Fly, Jul 6, 2012.

  1. WA-Fly

    WA-Fly Active Member

    Does any body use UV resin when tying flies and if so whats the best resin and where can I get some thanks
  2. Jeff Dodd

    Jeff Dodd Active Member

    I've only used the Loon products, but I like them and use them fairly regularly. Most recent was on the saltwater flies using the new Popovitch fleye foils. Great also for chironomid bodies or buzzer patterns. Once you own some you will find all sorts of uses for it at the bench or around the house.
  3. Jeff Dodd

    Jeff Dodd Active Member

    As for where to buy.... I would just pick a place, they all are expensive. I did buy the more powerful flashlight at sierra trading post, but it cannot compare with a sunny day like today.
  4. WA-Fly

    WA-Fly Active Member

    thanks, that's exactly what I was planning using it for buzzer patterns
  5. WA-Fly

    WA-Fly Active Member

    I think I will by solarez and a desk UV lamp
  6. Norm Frechette

    Norm Frechette Googlemeister

  7. WA-Fly

    WA-Fly Active Member

    What would be the best resin
  8. troutdopemagic

    troutdopemagic Active Member

    I've been using Clear Cure Goo for a while and its pretty sweet. If you buy the regular, non-tack free stuff, you may want to overcoat with a hard coating like Hard as Hull its a little tacky. Besides that, its pretty great stuff that won't ever yellow like epoxy and comes in several different viscosity levels.
  9. Pattick

    Pattick Member

    I'm using the Loon stuff so it might be a little different, but you can get rid of the "tackiness" by running some isopropyl alcohol over the coating after you cure it. Not a lot, just get a rag a little damp and go to it.
  10. BuzFly

    BuzFly Member

    Norm - 375nm wavelength? Is that the right wavelength ? I know Bug Bond and CCG are at 395. Loon is at 365. I have the same light at 395nm. It works fine for me. The only problem with that light is the batteries are expensive unless you get them on eBay in bulk and you burn through them quickly.

  11. Norm Frechette

    Norm Frechette Googlemeister


    yes on the 375nm wavelength. and it cures bug bond, ccg, diamond hard and solarez. i just use duracell batteries and have no problems. i dont keep the light on the fly for any length of time. just enough to set the resin.

    i just did the poppers in the following fotos using diamond hard uv resin cured with the ultrafire light and then a final cure under the sun. hard as a rock and no tackiness whatsoever. no need for alcohol wipes or sallys nail polish.

    i think tyers using the uv cured goos are just too anxious to touch the light cured product (yes i'm one of them).


  12. tkww

    tkww Member

    I've been using Bug bond. It works. Haven't been particularly blown, but it works. Seems like CGG is a lot more popular, but that could very well have something to do with it being sold in more than two shops in the entire country. Posts I've read where people test them seem to suggest they both work out about the same as far a quality. I believe that CGG has more product options.
  13. laurie

    laurie Laurie

    I use a Uv cure resin and a ultraviolet laser pen light, it cures the resin in four seconds and it comes out like glass.
    i now use it for all my nymphs buzzers and finishing salmon heads.
    I used Bug Bond and Deer creek resin and found this stuff is half the price
  14. defranksflies

    defranksflies Member

    I use Loon UV Resins (as duly noted you can use denatured alcohol and wipe the treated area with a q-tip or finger to get rid of the film. Clear Cure Goo Tack Free is also a good product.

    TIP: When painting my buzzers, I thin my resin out with denatured alcohol. This will make the process much easier by allowing you to paint the fly more evenly. You won't have the resin tracking the brush as you pull it away. Just play with the ratios to get the desired consistency.
  15. jwg

    jwg Active Member

    for reasons completely unrelated to fly tying I have been learning some of the chemistry of these UV resins.

    The cure is inhibited by oxygen, so that is why the surface remains tacky.
    (I agree, hard to resist touching it and finding out if its as hard as it is clear.)

    Below the surface oxygen diffusion is slow enough that the cure can proceed.

    I imagine if the UV light flux is high enough, i.e. bright enough, as in sunlight exposure, the rate of the cure reactions increases enough to overcome the rate of oxygen inhibition.

    If you could displace the oxygen while curing with a flashlight, by blowing some other gas on it, maybe that would allow it to surface cure. Any ideas what might be handy and safe to do this?

  16. Jack Devlin

    Jack Devlin Active Member

    I've only used the Loon resin and Loon light so I can't compare it to any other system yet. Seems to be ok. There is another system out there which I would like to try - Tuffleye (sp?) I will when I use up all the Loon resin.
  17. silvercreek

    silvercreek Active Member

  18. silvercreek

    silvercreek Active Member

    Deleted post
  19. Call me crazy but what is a buzzer?? And would one of you guys post a picture of a nymph you have put the UV resin on?? thanks
  20. Norm Frechette

    Norm Frechette Googlemeister