Wooden boat repair question

Discussion in 'Watercraft' started by Tracy Lauricella, Aug 25, 2012.

  1. Tracy Lauricella

    Tracy Lauricella Active Member

    Thought I'd check in with an update. I cleaned up the aluminum guards, drilled out the screw holes and injected them with Epoxy + 405. They are setting up now.

    I also sanded the tops of the chine guards, where the fiberglass had wrapped down and wasn't 100% even with the edge where I had cut it. While I was at it I did a light sanding on the guard plates on the sides of the hull. I will paint these and the chine guards with black bottom paint soon.

    I filled a few hull scrapes with Expoxy + 405, and then did some light sanding on a few spots on the hull; some of these are areas that were scratched, others just had a few epoxy drips on them from when I did the fiberglass. (lesson learned: Don't mask with paper. Enough epoxy drips will soak through and bind the paper to the wood.)

    Here's how things look now for the exterior:
    [​IMG]

    After painting the guards, I'm just going to hit the outside with a coat of spar varnish. I don't think it needs much more than that.

    On to the inside!

    The inside bottom hull isn't real pretty right now. The floor was 1/4" plywood, and since you couldn't see through it, it wasn't obvious that the bottom was looking pretty rough:
    [​IMG]

    It looks to me like it had water sitting inside it at some point. The grain of the plywood has popped in a few places and the varnish (resin?) coat has yellowed. Everything seems fine structurally, it's just ugly. I'm going to sand the yellowed crap off, then hit it with some epoxy & varnish it.

    While I'm at it, I need to sand the epoxy down and even things out where I put in the patch:
    [​IMG]

    Next steps after that are to put in a new floor deck. I don't want to just use solid plywood again, as it doesn't let wet boots drain, and anything that happens to roll under the floor is lost.
     
  2. Patrick Gould

    Patrick Gould Active Member

    The work looks good and that boat has really sweet lines. It would be interesting to find out who designed it.
     
  3. Tracy Lauricella

    Tracy Lauricella Active Member

    More progess:

    Sanded down the inside bottom, including evening out the squeezed-out epoxy from my patch:
    [​IMG]

    Epoxied half the bottom. (Only doing half at a time, since I need somewhere to kneel when applying it.) Each half will get two coats, then I'll go over it with spar varnish.
    [​IMG]

    Painted the side guards and chine guards with bottom paint, and hit the outside with a coat of spar varnish:
    [​IMG]

    I spotted some cracking along the surface of the prow, so I sanded through the coating and found there was body filler and plywood separating. The coating over this was not bonded to the wood properly. I sanded through the filler and removed some of the separated material:

    [​IMG]

    I gave it a coat of epoxy and filled in the low spots with epoxy + 405 fillet material. I then sanded this level and added two coats of epoxy with graphite mixed in:
    [​IMG]


    What's next:
    finish epoxying and varnishing inside bottom.
    Make a floor deck.
    Accessories & furniture repair.
     
  4. Mikey

    Mikey Member

    Agree. Nice looking boat. And this is a great thread, lots of good info and photos. Keep it up.

    Mike
     
  5. Tracy Lauricella

    Tracy Lauricella Active Member

    Not much to add yet, been working a lot of long hours this week at the office.

    I did get the second half of the bottom epoxied with 2 coats:

    [​IMG]

    Next step is the floor. I like the look of individual board floors, but don't like the idea of losing flies, split shot, etc between the floorboards and having them sit in the bottom of the boat. Right now the boat has removable 1/4" plywood flooring, painted black. It works ok, but it's pretty flimsy, and it's ugly. I'm thinking about doing the best of both worlds and installing boards on top of the 1/4" ply.
     
  6. Tracy Lauricella

    Tracy Lauricella Active Member

    I installed 3" wide douglas fir boards on top of the 1/4 ply floors today. I hit them with a coat of red mahogany stain. Tomorrow I'll put a coat of spar varnish over that.

    [​IMG]
     
  7. Tracy Lauricella

    Tracy Lauricella Active Member

    More progress.

    I have the new floor in place. The boards are screwed down to the plywood, but only the very front section is actually attached to the boat.

    Unfortunately, with the thicker floor, my cooler/fish box doesn't fit under the rower seat anymore. (It needed repair/replacing anyway, so not too worried there.) The bigger issue is the front seat/storage box sits up about 3/4" too high now, so I'll likely have to trim it down.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    I'm toying with moving the rower seat a little bit forward, and if I do, I'll have to move the oarlocks forward as well. It looks like the previous owner had them mounted in that more forward position once, I'm not sure why they were moved back. As it is now, the oarlocks are about 7" behind centerline, and the forward position appears to have been right at the centerline.
     
    Patrick Gould likes this.
  8. Tracy Lauricella

    Tracy Lauricella Active Member

    Well... I thought I was done.

    We took the boat out today to do some fishing on a local lake. After being out a short while, we noticed a spot where water was weeping through the hull.

    It turns out there was dry rot, partially hidden behind the side bumpers, going all the way down between the chines.

    Here's the spot from the outside. Notice the several spots where it looks like earlier repairs were done.
    [​IMG]

    The wood here is soft.
    [​IMG]

    Really soft.
    [​IMG]

    About 30 seconds later, I discover the rot goes all the way down between the chine guards:
    [​IMG]

    From the inside. The rot goes up behind the side bumper as well.
    [​IMG]

    I'm not sure how to approach this repair.
    [​IMG]

    Any suggestions?

    --Tracy
     
  9. Tracy Lauricella

    Tracy Lauricella Active Member

    I'm thinking at this point the approach to take will be to cut the hole rectangular, making sure to clean out any rotted areas (including down in between the chine guards.) then let it thoroughly dry. Next step will be to cut a patch that matches the size of the cut hole and fits in tight like a plug. I'll put a block of 1/4" ply over this from the inside so that it has plenty of support & surface area to adhere to the hull. Everything will be epoxied in place, first wetting out the surfaces with straight epoxy, then filleted with thickened epoxy while it is still wet.

    I believe this will hold well and be water tight and look decent from the outside. The inside will have the 1/4" ply block visible, but its in an unobtrusive location, so I think it'll probably be ok.

    Replacing the rub rails/side bumpers is another matter entirely. I'll need to do more research there. Looks like 1/4" boards that have been carefully bent to shape.
     
  10. Tracy Lauricella

    Tracy Lauricella Active Member

    Ok, I have patched the hole.

    [​IMG]
    I cut the rot out, then made the hole rectangular. The patch is made of 3/8" plywood. It extends about an inch down between the chine guards (had to hammer it in place) and it has thickened epoxy on all sides, including between the chine guards.

    A larger backing block made from 1/4" wood is inside the boat, and this patch is currently screwed to it. After everything cures, I will remove the screws and fill the holes with epoxy. Some sanding and refinishing will certainly be in order as well.

    [​IMG]
    Inside the boat, you can see the larger patch block. This is made of 1/4" wood, and extends beyond the original hole. It serves as a backing block for the patch. It is epoxied in place. I'm using a truck bed cargo bar to hold it in place while it cures.

    [​IMG]
    Closer view of the block.

    I'm still looking for a source for wood to replace the side bumper. It's 1/4"x5"x10', and looks to be maple. (it's not ply) The guy at Grey Lumber told me I'm probably out of luck, unless I want to buy a 1" thick piece and plane it down.

    Anyone know of a good source for this? I suppose I could go with a plastic bumper if wood isn't available in that size.
     
  11. Tracy Lauricella

    Tracy Lauricella Active Member

    Any ideas? I missed my window to finish this before the rain hits, but I can cut and prep the side bumper if I can track down the wood.

    Looking for a piece of 1/4" board (not ply) 10' long and at least 5" wide. Where does one find lumber in this size?
     
    Patrick Gould likes this.
  12. Patrick Gould

    Patrick Gould Active Member

    The repair looks perfect. Nice job.
     
  13. Patrick Gould

    Patrick Gould Active Member

    I would go for 1088 grade 6mm ply for the side board (sponson). If you have to have solid I would just take a piece of 5" wide hardwood and rip it to thickness on the table saw. Make one 2 1/2" cut and then turn it over and make another.
     
  14. Tracy Lauricella

    Tracy Lauricella Active Member

    Do you know where I can get 10' ply? Everywhere I've looked it comes in a max length of 8'.
    I was thinking that board would be better than ply, since the purpose of the bumper/rub rail is to handle being bumped into things (probably the trailer, most often)

    (apologies if the answers here should be obvious. I've done a lot more metalwork than woodwork.)
     
  15. Patrick Gould

    Patrick Gould Active Member

    I was just thinking that 1/4 hardwood might want to crack and check. It might be fine since it essentially laminated to the side of the boat.

    10 6mm ply can be had from Edensaw Woods. It's not cheap though.