I have been reading through a lot of the Stillwater threads and have noticed chironomids seem to be very popular. I will do some research of my own and watch a few videos but was wondering if the WFF had any helpful tips. I fish Stillwater a lot (given how much I get to fish, which isn't very often) and usually troll or strip a wooly bugger or similar fly. Also, chironomids look easy to tie and I was wondering if someone would be gracious enough to share a step by step. Thanks!
You are about to open up the man hole cover and discover that there is a whole other world down there. This site will yield an insane amount of information.
Identify depth, what are fish keying in on, chironomid size and then learn the lake hatch timing.
Catch a couple kick trolling. Pump the THROAT, not stomach, match the size of average chironomid (most likely a chromie or blood worm larvae) and look at your fish finder for the depth fish are hanging out at. Set your indicator. Or you can use the hemostst trick and work your way up. I prefer a fish finder.
Learn to time the hatch. There are morning-mid morning periods that tend to fish better.
Rule out daphnia. If stomach full of daphnia, fish leeches. Most fisherman get hung up here. If fish are keyed in on daphnia, fishing a chironomid feels futile.
That’s a basic blueprint/shortcut to fishing chironomids.
@ Irafly, thanks for the indicator tip, I don't do much indicator fishing where I need a slip indicator but will need some for BC this year; I don't like the Frog Hair brand, do the ones you reference come with what's needed for slip setup or is that a separate item?
Found a great price on fluorocarbon tippet, Fenwick; $4.95 for 50 yds. https://www.backcountry.com/fenwick...6RmVud2ljayB0aXBwZXQ6MToyOkZlbndpY2sgdGlwcGV0
In my experience, not all fluoro is created equal. Over the years I have stockpiled the good stuff when I find a good sale. I trust Scientific Anglers, Airflo Sightfree, Rio Fluoro Flex, and Seaguar 100% fluoro tippet material. One brand to avoid is Berkley!
And yes, those slip indicators come with the peg to set depth.
At the moment I just have 4x Rio mono for all purposes because I am prioritizing other gear, but I might invest in some fluorocarbon if I start running low or have funds to spare
I asked because my experience with fluoro is knots that didn't hold. Being kinda' old school I use blood knots to join tippet to leader and a variation of the Turle knot to affix fly to tippet. Fluoro doesn't like those knots. It may be time to learn some new knots. If you see a guy fishing from a pram who is looking at printouts while tying his leader and flies, that will be me.
Double surgeons for tippet to leader has never failed me with flouro to flouro, and then the non-slip mono loop that Ira has mentioned works incredibly well for tippet to fly. Its a true game changer in my experience.
i like to use seagur STS florocarbon for my leaders (i use 6lb for my tippets and 12lb down to my swivel), the ira shapped bobbers (i like bright yellow pear shaped, large).
I like th sts beause its strong, high quality, low diamiter, and WAY cheaper then rio/SA/trouthunter tippet.
everything ira said is spot on.
my favorite pattern is a white bead head, purple flash body, silver wire rib, with some UV white ice dub behind the bead.
this is the stuff. its the shit. took me a long time to find a floro for trout at a price i can swallow and ive been super super impressed with this stuff. the diameters for the strength are great.
last thing, if your fishing a 4x or stronger floro, you might want to tie your bugs on heavy wire hooks. ive bent a lot of hooks out of shape on fish in the local lakes over the years using 4x and a 4wt, but i almost never break off unless the knot is bad or the line damaged. i think being in the float tube lets me absorb the tippet breaking events better, but i dunno, i tossed a dozen bugs last year after having multiple hooks bend on me. much happier with how the heavy wire hooks fish (more weight to the bug = tighter connection to the bobber, esp on days with more then a chrinomid chop)
last thing, if your fishing a 4x or stronger floro, you might want to tie your bugs on heavy wire hooks. ive bent a lot of hooks out of shape on fish in the local lakes over the years using 4x and a 4wt, but i almost never break off unless the knot is bad or the line damaged.
I now only use 1x or 2x strong hooks for smaller stillwater flies. Just bent out too many standard and fine-wire hooks on 3x or 4x. I think the only time I've broken off in the last couple years was when I sunk my leech into a stump. And yes to the STS line. I started using it last year and it has worked well. Also seems to knot easier than some fluoros I've tried.
I use 8 or 12 feet of 15 lb Amnesia, below that 6 feet of 4x flouro to 1st fly, heavy wire hooks, Plumbobber (super reliable release). My buddy uses 3x flouro and catches more fish than I. Don't take you eye off the bobber. They'll know.
Ira, with no swivel and no split shot, doesn't it take an extraordinarily long time for a size 14 bead head chironomid pattern to sink when your bobber/indicator is pegged at say 12 to 15'?
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Related Threads
?
?
?
?
?
Washington Fly Fishing Forum
1.8M posts
21.3K members
Since 2000
A forum community dedicated to fishers, anglers and enthusiasts in the Washington area. Come join the discussion about safety, gear, boats, tackle, reviews, accessories, classifieds, and more!