Wondering if you guys would be so kind as to give me some feedback on my proposed cat frame? I picked up some 14' x 22" RMR tubes with the intension of using my scadden frames on them, doubled up as on an Avenger XX or the older MacKenzie pontoon (13' x 18" tubes). after evaluating that and getting feedback from people who tried the same thing, I decided to go with a bigger diameter aluminium pipe (1-5/8" o.d.) for strngth in Class III water I may want to take on. Note: I'm not interested in discussing steel vs. aluminium, going with Al for weight benefit. Here's a boat I saw on another site that I like a lot, just want to go a little bigger between the tubes (he's at 33", I'm thinking about 38"). These tubes pictured are 13' and have more rocker than my RMRs, so I think I can make a little bigger boat: 38" wide between tubes (vs. 33") and top frame @ 66", 72" @ oarlocks. I would make my front passenger space on same module as rower's with bays, rear-to-front of approximatley 16", 36" for rower's bay, 16" for front cooler and 24-26" for front floor; 94" oa length. I could then add a 24" module to the back for a rear casting position for stillwaters or class I & II water and still be inside the rocker on the tubes. This is for later, depending on a lot of things, such as how the boat handles 2 (or 3) with the 94" frame. A question I have is for those of you using Lo-Pro (NRS) style or speedrail fittings: Like/dislikes? I'm considering the speedrail fittings as they are 1/2 the cost of NRS LP's and I need 20 as the current plan goes. Not inconsequential cost. I want the advantages of breaking down the frame to alter it if I change my mind as to size/layout and welded pipe is probably out of the question for now. Floor? Think I'm going to give this a try: View attachment 15369 The flyfisher who built these floors says they are taught, strong and cheap. I've time, so will try. Materials run about $50 which is way less than the NRS style and from what I've been told, these will support a load better. Oartowers: Thinking about the offset ones at the bottom of this page; http://www.rowframe.com/oarlockstowerspins.html Last, coatings: http://www.rowframe.com/clearacrylicanodizing.html Powdercoating reduces strength and is expensive, anodizing has it's issues; looks to me like a clear acrylic coating or POR-15 seems like an viable and economical alternative. Anyone have an uncoated frame? Does it really mark the tubes (and your hands) that bad? Any input/pictures appreciated. One thing I have picked up in my research is a lot of people would do otherwise once they got what they have on the water. My purpose here is to have a fishing cat that'll carry up to 3 people on Class I & II+ waters, breaks-down to 2-people for III+ waters. Frame at 100 lbs. or less (without accsy's).