Your fly line choices for SRC/resident silvers?

When I fish for SRC/resident silvers in the saltchuck, I always have two rods strung usually 6 wt's. One rod has a floating line strung up(WF/rocket taper) and the other rod has a full sinking WF line(type 1V 3 3/4 to 6 1/2" per sec. sink rate). I like to have the fexibility to quickly change from a surface presentation vs. getting down near the bottom depending on the fishing location and behavior of the fish.

For the floating line, I get the cheapest line available(ex. Crystal River approx. $15). My philosophy is why get expensive floating lines since the harsh salt water environment markedly shortens the life of them. The cheap lines cast and float just about as well as the expensive ones.

For the full sinking line, I like the Scientific Angler Wet Cell type 1V(gray) line. It has a small diameter and is an excellent long distance casting line that handles wind very well. It costs appox. $30 if you shop around.

For the six weight rods, I will overload the rods by using eight weight lines on them. I will probably get criticized for doing that but I have my reasons that work for my style of fishing. First, double hauling two false casts results in shooting a lot of line to make long casts in a hurry. Second, greater line speed and a heavier line handles wind better. Third, "cuzz" I am old and not as quick or agile, I need all the help that I can get!

So what are your choices of lines for SRC/resident silvers?

Matt Burke

Active Member
I use floating shooting heads, Aqualux shooting heads and Big Boy Shooting heads with amnesia running line. Sage 5120 at 300 to 400 grains, Loop Greenline 8124 at 400 to 500 grains and a Talon Midgar 13' 9/10 wt. at 600 to 700 grains. I use two handed rods for everything.

Matt Burke
I like a 6, or 7-weight for Puget Sound cutthroat and coho salmon. My floating line is usually a Cortland Wind Taper. The SA Steelhead Taper is also nice for this fishing. Both have long but very strong front tapers and will turn over most flies even into some breeze. They also pick up very easily for quick redirection of the fly. For tips I add the 6 to 10-foot poly leaders in slow through fast.

Intermediate sinking lines like the Cortland Clear Camo or SA Stillwater work very well if the breeze is scuffing up the surface, which will push a floating line around making a controlled retrieve difficult.

For fishing fairly steep beaches like Lincoln Park in Seattle, a Quick Descent, Streamer Express or Teeny Nymph line of about 200 to 250 grains will get a fly down over the curve into the deeper water where chinook tend to lurk.

All of these lines in 7-weight will also work at Neah Bay, Tofino and elsewhere in the Pacific salt for coho of any size.

Good Fishing,
Les Johnson


Active Member
I use a 6wt rod with an SA 6wt Bonefish line. I like the stiffness of the line. I believe it shoots better. On those very rare occasions when I want to get under the surface, I use the SA Stillwater line.



The dumb kid
i agree with mi, the bonefish lines do handle very well, plus they do good in salt. i would go with a 6wt shooting bonefish full floating line, and use a cheep sinking line if i wanted to go deep, or just use tungsten beads in your flies/ or a line putty

my 2 cents

Was searching the forums for info on lines and found this old thread. How do you guys find the SA Bonefish for coiling. I have the 8wt Bonefish for my trips down south and find if I use it in colder water it is useable but I am better off with a SA Steelhead Taper. Is the 6 wt. version a little more manageable?
St Croix LU8Wt 9ft loaded with Rio stiper line
Lamiglass 8W 9ft loaded with Rio stiper line
St Croix SW 6wt 9ft loaded with SA clear intermediate 6wt line
St Croix LU8wt 9ft loaded with multi tip line from Cabela's

Sometimes just for fun an old Lamiglass glass 9' 5 WT loaded with either a 6wt floating line or the SA clear intermediate 6wt line.


Active Member
I use SA Supreme 2 Floater and ST 3...can get them for under 30.00 downtown at Outdoor Emporium...I also have used Ultras...I bought a bunch when REI closed out there stuff....they were like 14.00 or something real cheap.

I noticed today at Gi Joe's they had a new line on sale for 7.99. It was for 7/8 lines, only and came in floater and ST..maybe others. Olive and White. It was called Olympic Fly Line...made in USA. It looked familiar but don't recall it.
Tinpusher, I have not used the SA, but have experimented using the Cortland 444 Bonefish line 8WT, and like Leland mentioned, I do like its increased stiffness for shooting line out in cold salt water. I haven't noticed any problems with coiling. The coils tended to be larger, and less likely to tangle.


Be the guide...
on my 8wt, I have cheap 9wt WF floating line and it works OK. Not a great distance setup, but reliable and turns over heavier flies just fine.

But my 6wt is another story. I've been struggling with the Wolff triangle taper and heavier flies. Seems the line is designed to turn over and present smaller flies with a clean and gentle presentation. So I think I'll get another line to use with that rod for salt fishing. I'm thinking of the Scientific Angler Wet Cell type IV(gray) line as mentioned in the original post. Although the sink rate may be too much for those shallow beaches I've been fishing....

Steve Rohrbach

Puget Sound Fly Fisher
I am using the new Rio Outbound intermediate shooting head line. It has a clear intermediate sink shooting head with very small running line and it flies. Several websites indicate that you can add 20 feet to your cast with this line. I have been fishing Pinks several times this month when the fish were holding off the beach and the Outbound line was reaching fish that others couldn't touch. Mind you, some of those fishing the line included Jimmy LeMert of Patrick's and Anil of Puget Sound Fly Co., both FFF Certified casters. However, it has also improved my distance casting.
I like the intermediate so much that I bought the floating head and have it available for shallow beaches and fishing Leland's Popper. Leland recently reported that he is using the Outbound floating line and he is not used to losing sight of the popper at the end of his cast.