SBS Carnage Hopper (variation) SBS

ScottP

Active Member
#1


hook - Dai Riki 280 #8
thread - UTC 140 tan
body/head - 2mm foam tan
underwing - landscape fabric
wing - elk hair
legs - rubber medium tan barred
eyes - foam cylinder
indicator - 2mm foam

Made a few changes to Adam Trina's original, mainly in the construction of the head (found it easier to work with the folded foam as opposed to the chunk of 6mm). The spiral-wrapped body is a pretty interesting design (love the segmentation effect); not really hard to do as long as you coat the needle with something to keep the foam from sticking. Vary the size of the needle (swiped a darning needle from my wife for this fly) and foam thickness based on the size of the bug. I used 2mm because I wanted a chunky bodied-hopper look; 1mm and .5mm razor foam may be better alternatives for smaller hoppers/stoneflies.

Insert needle in vise




poke a hole in a strip of foam (hook gap width)




and slide on the needle (you'll want that tag end to hold onto)




didn't have any wax so I used a liberal application of Mucilin to coat the needle




brush Super Glue on about 3" of the foam




grab the tag end and spiral the foam up the needle; try to make the turns uniform in spacing and tension (for a fat body like this, I don't pull too hard)




continue wrapping a few more turns; hold for a sec until the glue sets




then slide the body off the hook; trim tag end




mash the hook barb, insert in vise and wrap thread to hook point




tie on a "binder strip" of foam (helps lock the body onto the hook in the following steps)






position body on hook, coat binder strip with Super Glue




brush a bit more glue on body strip and wrap forward 3 turns




tie off foam and trim






prepare underwing (hook gap width)




measure for length (extend a bit past the butt) apply a bit of glue and tie in




clean, stack and measure a clump of elk hair and tie in







invert fly, take another strip of foam (a bit wider than hook gap) and tie in at base of wing position




flip fly back over, poke a hole in it for hook eye






place a piece of foam cylinder at front of head




fold foam over top and tie down at base of wing




tie in legs




trim excess foam and tie in indicator




whip finish, SHHAN, trim legs, indicator and foam underneath and you're done







Regards,
Scott
 

ScottP

Active Member
#6
Tested the hopper out for a few days in Yellowstone NP and surrounding water - worked well but no better than any other patterns I tried, and in the smaller sizes (#12 and down) using the 1mm foam they proved to be somewhat fragile (the larger 2mm foam version was much more durable), with the extended body tearing off on a number of occasions. Not going to give up on it yet, but if I can't find a way to strengthen it up without adding time to the tying process, I may just stick to the bigger ones for this pattern and the Rogue version for smaller hoppers, which worked just fine. The Carnage drakes, on the other hand, seemed to hold up very well, and generated a lot of interest.

Regards,
Scott
 

ScottP

Active Member
#7
in the smaller sizes (#12 and down) using the 1mm foam they proved to be somewhat fragile (the larger 2mm foam version was much more durable), with the extended body tearing off on a number of occasions. Not going to give up on it yet, but if I can't find a way to strengthen it up without adding time to the tying process, I may just stick to the bigger ones for this pattern

Had an epifanny in Home Depot




now I'm tying tube fly hoppers






just hold the foam strip against the tube, apply a lot of Super Glue to the foam (no need to wax the needle)




wrap foam around tube; since it's not gonna stick to the needle I could really pull the foam tight to get good adhesion (to the tubing, too), and adjust tension to create body taper






slid off the needle slick as whale snot; now I got Carnage on a stick




trim the butt and front tube (not the front foam, yet) and poke a hole in the bottom to slide the hook into




insert hook in vise, start the thread and build up a tying base; forgot to add foam binder strip for more bulk (next time)




coat with Super Glue




slide the body forward, wrap once around with the foam and tie it down




clean, stack, measure a clump of elk hair and tie it in






take a wider strip of foam and tie in underneath at wing tie-in position




poke a hole in foam where hook eye meets, pull foam up, move thread to hook eye and secure foam with a couple firm wraps




move thread back to wing tie-in position and secure foam on top




add legs and indicator






trim head foam top and bottom, whip finish, SHHAN and you're done



ventral




dorsal



ana... errrr, from the back side




Sorry for the ugly orange hopper but I was playing around with some ideas for an October Caddis when inspiration hit. They make heat shrink tubing in 1/16" which would be a little smaller, but I think for hoppers #12-14, I'll use something like Larva Lace or Hareline tubing.

Regards,
Scott