Discussion in 'Spey Clave' started by AndreasJ, May 13, 2012.
Do you mean overhang?
Sure, you can call it that. Leave a foor or more line outside the rod when in faster water. Pull that extra line in when in slower water. Keep it simple.
I just try to place my anchor a little further upriver
180 ° principle per Simon Gawsworth. The fly is not coming all the way around before you make the forward cast, therefore you get a cork screw effect in your turnover.
Yup, what Jim just said.
Thanks Jim and Fred, that is what I had in mind when I mentioned tracking/speed, now how does he fix it? I see allot of people, including myself way back when, sweeping too fast causing their d-loop to go upstream or downstream depending on river left or right, when it should be behind them or 180degrees from the target. Then they cross their "track" on the forward cast causing the line to cross and or whack itself mid-flight depending on the severity. This is what I figured he was doing, and gave the advice I did. Tough to tell without seeing it. Again, trying to give advice on how to fix or diagnose casting on the internet is like playing pictionary with the blind.
The crossing over thing is what Simon Gawsworth refers to as the bloody L. When the fly is still downstream of the D loop on a single spey, it will come out of the water and whack the line on the cast. Put too much power into such a cast, and it will whack YOU! Hence the name Bloody L. Proper setting of the anchor on a single spey cast takes a lot of practice as different lengths of line, as well as different water, all effect the cast. Should the anchor not come up far enough, you're better off to abort the cast, make a roll cast back downstream, and start over. rather than attempt to salvage the cast. If the anchor point is too far upstream, and not lined up with the D loop. it will corkscrew and kick the fly over downstream.
On double spey, and other downstream anchor casts, the line and fly are pulled around on the sweep to line up with the D loop. If the fly fails to come all the way around, the cast will corkscrew, usually kicking the fly upstream causing a bow in the line resulting in drag and prohibiting sinking of the fly.
The long and short of it is, you cannot make a good cast with a bad anchor.
Yup ........ again. Only add one thing on how to save a 'blown anchor placement:' The Perry Poke. If you screw up your anchor placement IMMEDIATELY (and I do mean immediately!) come back and set up/execute the Poke. You'll save almost every 'Ah Hell' with that great cast.
This is a very common problem with our students and many experienced casters.
It is mainly caused,,, not by the 180 degree principle,,,,, but on the back cast.
If you swing into the back cast and the line over rotates or hooks a little the rod will have a sideways bend,,,, on the CM/CL stroke the rod will give the forward cast a little kick to the side and cause the "L" shaped landing of your leader or tip.
It is a torque effect on the rod tip which straightens out at the end of the forward stroke.
Correction is to give the rod a little "stab" at the end of the back cast,,,,, about 3" or 4" is all you require,,,, this will give the line direction and eliminate the little hook caused at the end of the back cast swing. The heavy line has momentum and when you stop the back cast it over rotates and bends the rod tip a small amount.
Stand directly behind a caster and watch the formation of the "D" loop,,, observe the allignment of the rod vs. line and "D" loop wrt target. I expect you will observe the small "hook" of the line wrt the rod tip.
Thanks for the input FK, but I´m not sure what you mean by "stab".
A stab when casting is an old term from Lefty Kreh,,,, it is called a "thrust" by Ed Ward.
At the end of your backcast,,,, give the rod a short motion in the direction of the rod blank,,,, stab it like a knife or sword.