Clouser critique?

Discussion in 'Saltwater' started by Sawyer, Jul 9, 2014.

  1. Matt B

    Matt B ...

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    Oh c'mon now. Mustads work just fine as a shank. What's to fail there?
     
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  2. golfman44

    golfman44 5-Time Puget Sound Steelhead Guide of the Year

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    To be fair my living room has a few dozen hook points on the carpet that flew somewhere after cutting them. Banking on the girlfriends feet finding them for me.
     
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  3. porterHause

    porterHause Just call me Jon

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    This right here. I'd make your future ties more sparse.

    SOP, you're wasting some serious cash if you're using expensive hooks for clouser heads. I like the 34007's as they are stainless steel. They seem to have disappeared from stores, so my most recent batch was tied on Umpqua U401s...the cheap version of tiemco 811s.
     
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  4. Matt B

    Matt B ...

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    Matt Baerwalde said:
    Oh c'mon now. Mustads work just fine as a shank. What's to fail there?​
    Now, I suppose the hook eye could open up. That has never happened to me. Has that ever happened to anyone here?

    When I need shanks I buy whatever is on clearance...bait hooks, whatever.
     
  5. Sawyer

    Sawyer Active Member

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    I was told by one of the guys at GHFS that sometimes the hook eyes on the Mustads won't be closed all the way and you'll tie on, make your cast a bye bye fly!
    So check the eye of the hook before you put em in your box.


    My thoughts exactly, I couldn't bring myself to cut up anymore daiichi hooks at $7.00 for 25
     
  6. Bob Triggs

    Bob Triggs Stop Killing Wild Steelhead!

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    The Orvis #9034 stainless steel hooks have a beautifully formed, fully closed eye. Cheap hooks = cheap flies.
     
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  7. Sawyer

    Sawyer Active Member

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    I'll look at the Orvis hooks online, I haven't seen them at Gig harbor fly shop or Puget sound fly Co
     
  8. porterHause

    porterHause Just call me Jon

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    I've seen the same open eye issue on gammy's and owners too. I bet there's a rare bird in the orvis hook too...even at $13/25.

    I agree, cheap hooks = cheap flies...but using the SHANK of a hook that hasn't had the HOOK POINT laser edged, chemically sharpened, and dipped in moose turds doesn't make for a lesser STINGER clouser. It just means I'll have beer money later on.
     
  9. Chris Bellows

    Chris Bellows Your Preferred WFF Poster

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    the only expensive hooks i use on the front hook of a stinger (i never use a 2 hook rig because it damages fish) are when i need a really light wire so smaller diameter foam will float well... but for clousers cheap mustads work excellent paired with a sticky sharp gami or owner stinger.
     
  10. Bagman

    Bagman Active Member

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    I hate Gami hooks. I keep getting stuck by the stringer, and those dam Gamis go deep.
     
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  11. mtskibum16

    mtskibum16 Active Member

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    The Allen SW002 are a good choice at ~$6/25. I haven't had any issues with them as a sacrificial or primary hook. Although, they appear to be out of stock currently.
     
  12. Tony

    Tony Left handed Gemini.

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    I've tied clousers on expensive SS and on the less expensive (mustad) and other than the fact that you need to sharpen the second for the money there is no better
     
  13. Alexander

    Alexander Fishon

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    From Gig Harbor Fly Shop - 100 Mustad 3407DT size 1 $12.99

    It's what I used for the stinger Clouser swap. Hard to beat that price, and they're just for shanks anyway.
     
  14. dibling

    dibling Active Member

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    New to the tying game here. When you guys mention tying a stinger hook to another cheaper hook, how are you securing / tying the stinger on?
     
  15. Sawyer

    Sawyer Active Member

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    Hairline dubbin Senyo's Intruder trailer wire and you can also use Fireline
    When your tying on Fireline, you have to tie it one, then run it back thru the eye and back down the shank toward the bend of the hook and superglue the crap out of it.

    With Senyo Intruder wire, just run it up the top hook shank toward the eye, no need to run thru the eye because the Senyo wire has a coating on it that the thread bites into, super glue and wrap over the glue until you can't see the color of the Senyo wire ( that's what I do, may not be necessary )

    Also, you have to use Octopus hooks, if you don't when you run the wire thru the eye your hook will be off kilter.

    I'll post pics later so you get the idea of how to properly thread it thru if you want.

    Good luck!