connecting T14

Discussion in 'Spey Clave' started by Stosiak, Dec 15, 2007.

  1. James Mello

    James Mello Inventor of the "closed eye conjecture"

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    Second the Al Buhr book... They have the sickest description on how to do your own welded loops. A touch of heat, some heat shrink tubing and practice, and you get the same nice welded loops from the factory. It's a pretty cool technique because after you remove the heatshrink tubing you have a snag free smooth surface.
     
  2. SPEYBUM

    SPEYBUM Member

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    T-14 T-10 T-8
    These three can be really fun to work with when it comes to putting loops on them.
    I have inserted the bitter end of the T’s into floating line to make Skagit style heads and this dose work rather nicely.
    When looping the T’s by folding over and nail knotting be really careful as to how sharp you make your loop as if you make it to sharp it will crack the core will break and loose your sink tip.
    The loop size that TallFlyGuy made seems to be right.
    As for welded loops on the T’s be real careful on how you apply your heat.
    If the core get hot with will lose it’s grip to the coating and you will loose that big fish and get back you loop.
    Most weld loops on Tungsten type lines fail about a 1-inch or so from the weld and I think that this is caused by the heat being transferred by the mental in the coating.
    I have weld loops on my own sink tips and I am testing them now. I do know how long they will last and how good the will be.
    But rest assured I will get them to work right.
     
  3. TallFlyGuy

    TallFlyGuy Adipossessed!

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    Yes, be very carefull when applying heat to T-Sinking lines as the core is Mono(at least Rio's are, Not sure about Airflo's). It is not like regular line. I wouldn't put any heat on T-Series sinktips...but that is just me.
     
  4. SPEYBUM

    SPEYBUM Member

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    Note on welding any loop.
    When you are welding material let alone plastic always know what you temperature at the material.
    I us a calibrated thermometer to check my heat source each and every time I weld a loop.
    Rio T –14 T-10 and T-8 both and Airflo custom cut tips have a mono core.
    The core will melt below the boiling point of T the coating but not the Coalescence point. The trick is go with a low temperture and watch the material flo.
    It the material droops you have damanged the core.
    The whole process take time to learn but it is not rocket science.
     
  5. Rich McCauley

    Rich McCauley Meiser & Mohlin

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    Lots of good info in this thread. Just remember that if the junction point of the loop is stiffer than the line itself you will hasten the failure of the loop. All loops will eventually fail, but some methods are better than others. I prefer a flexible material over Zap A Gap which dries hard thus creating a hinge point.

    I have been playing with an idea for loops on sinktips. Newer composistions are much thinner than we used to see on SA Shooting heads and orriginal Rio tips. It is easy to screw up welded loops on braided Dacron core tips let alone mono or spectra cored lines.

    I too use a calibrated thermometor, but mine is a meat thermometor from the kitchen. Just make sure no one wants to roast a Turkey at the same time:)

    Strip about 1 1/2' of coating off of the tip material, then do a blind splice ( AKA Epoxy splice) into a peice of Dacron cored fly line about 3 1/2" long. I use the smallest diamater running line I can pull the mono into. Tapering the first 1/4" or so of the mono helps.

    Afrer that, you can do a standard welded loop without torching the mono.
    This method is still in Beta testing so I have no projections as to longevity.

    I have not read Al's book so I have no idea if I have put forth a previously published idea.
     
  6. fullerfly

    fullerfly Calvin Fuller

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    Usually just loop the T-14 get a Nail Knot Tool and tye two Nail Knots to make the loop with Kevlar thread. These have been proven to work on some pretty big ass rocks and some 40 lb kings too.
     
  7. trekker

    trekker Member

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    So after you have made the loop on the t-14, do you just loop the head to the t-14?

    Total Newb !
     
  8. Ed Call

    Ed Call Mumbling Moderator Staff Member

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    I belive so, that is how factory tips are connected, loop to loop with the head of the line. You've just made your own out of T-11, T-14 or T-17 to suit your needs.
     
  9. Michael Thompson

    Michael Thompson the flavor of BADFISH

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    fold it over on itself by one inch or more if desired. a couple wraps of kevlar or big fly thread where you want the loop to begin, a couple drops of super glue where you knotted the thread. slide over heat shrink tubing from lowes or depot (1/32?) apply heat, go fishing.
     
  10. Chukar Spey

    Chukar Spey I'll take Chukar & Steelhead all day, every day!

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    Was talking to Al Buhr at the Clearwater Clave last year (and yes get the book WELL worth it). When I asked him to do a demo on the T-lines he obliged and finessed it like no other. I told him I was impressed and thought it was a great teaching aid to see it done right (and not fast mind you).

    I then asked him if that is what he did on his lines, he smiled and said he liked to fish and not mess with all this jazz on the water. Most of what he did was similar to what was posted earlier. Shave, loop, nail-knot, wrap, etc...

    The exception was the glue. He swore up and down, left and right, Loctite 406 was the glue to use. Geared specifically to the types of materials in fly lines, flexible, among other reasons I have now forgot. Since then, I threw all my Zap-A-Gap away and only use Loctite 406, I did notice a difference too.

    So all you ZapGap lovers...give a try...if you can find it :thumb:
     
  11. Brett Angel

    Brett Angel Member

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    I also strip off some coating and use the 2 nail knot system to create a loop, but I'll tie the first nail knot with the core-only section of the T-14 and then a second nail knot with some maxima.
     
  12. Ed Call

    Ed Call Mumbling Moderator Staff Member

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    Sorry for an uneducated follow on, but is the coating on the heavy sinking lines weldable using the heating methods that are employed for standard fly lines? I've been folding this tip material over and nail knotting or putting on a braided catch loop and nail knotting that in place. A welded loop seems to be more streamlined through the guides. Thanks again.
     
  13. willj

    willj New Member

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    Tallflyguy, thanks for the pics. How do you strip the coating on the t14? I tried making some tips that way kind of, but had a hard time nicking the core. Thanks, Will
     
  14. Brett Angel

    Brett Angel Member

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    Take a section of 30# leader, create a knot in the middle of the leader, insert T, tighten the knot down on the T and pull the leader down stripping the coating. Repeat as neccessary.

    If I'm at home I use a pair of wire strippers.
     
  15. willj

    willj New Member

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    thanks Brett, sounds easy enough:)