Drift Boat Age

A.A.

Active Member
#1
I'm very close to pulling the trigger on my first used DB. It's aluminum from a well known manufacturer w a galvanized baker trailer. The boat and trailer are 9 years old but look to be in good shape. My wife keeps saying "maybe you should just buy a new boat instead of a really old one". I'd rather save the extra $6000. My understanding is that as long as it's not beat up, an aluminum DB will last forever. A good trailer will also last a long time with a little maintenance. So, what do you consider an "old" DB? What would u predict would start falling apart first? Or do they really last forever? And how does age affect resale value?
 
Last edited:

Shapp

Active Member
#6
Our koffler is over twice as old as the 9 year old boat you are looking at, it will last to infinity and beyond no problem. We have replaced the raised wood floor decking once and recoated the bottom with glovit. It lives outside uncovered in western Oregon.

 
#9
Although the boat itself could probably last forever, provided it is reasonably well cared for, it's the boat and trailer "wear" items that require routine maintenance, and periodic replacement. Those things can cost several thousand dollars to replace, in total, and can substantially effect the boat's selling price.

On the boat, I'd look carefully at the oars, oar locks, oar lock bushings, anchor, anchor rope, seat cushions, latches, drain plugs, etc.

On the trailer, it's the tires, wheel bearings, wheel alignment, axle, lights and wiring, winch and strap, rollers, etc.

Lastly, take it for a test drive before buying it. You can learn a lot about the boat that way, and what you think it is worth to you. After all, that's what matters.


John
 

Shapp

Active Member
#10
Those things can cost several thousand dollars to replace, in total, and can substantially effect the boat's selling price.

On the boat, I'd look carefully at the oars, oar locks, oar lock bushings, anchor, anchor rope, seat cushions, latches, drain plugs, etc.
I agree, the trailer stuff can get spendy, but all the stuff you listed above could be replaced for very cheap and easily except good new oars. Even if you replaced everything you listed above related to the boat gear (including 3 new oars), you are looking at less than $1000. More importantly related to the actual boat is to check out the bottom welds for any small (or larger cracks), any dents in proximity or on the welds, check the bottom coating and make sure it looks sound and smooth, and the raised floor decking to make sure it isn't soft and flexing at all and in need of replacement. While it isn't a lot of money to recoat the bottom or replace the floor deck, it is time consuming and can be a PITA.

I do agree about checking out the trailer thoroughly on all those points.
 

River Pig

Active Member
#15
Lastly, take it for a test drive before buying it. You can learn a lot about the boat that way, and what you think it is worth to you. After all, that's what matters.
Do people let uncommitted buyers take their boats out for a float? I've never sold a boat and only bought one, but that seems a little more risky than letting someone take your car for a test drive. I guess my point is, I wouldn't be offended if someone wasn't willing to let some rando off the street take their drift boat for a "test ride".