Discussion in 'Fly Tying' started by McNasty, Jan 19, 2012.
Thanks... you guys are too kind.
the bitch I have with epoxy is that they all yellow with time. I've tried coating them with Loon hard head but the result is the same. Jordan....do you have that problem with the UV Clear finish? I could put up with the tackyness if it didn't yellow...
I just bought some EP 1 minute epoxy, but haven't tried it yet. Something to consider.
Killer ties Brady, nicely done!
My personal experiences are somewhat limited but I have a few items to offer. As mentioned, a rotary vise certainly is helpful. Years ago, I tried tying single eggs with the mini glue guns and they never shaped quite right--until I had a rotary vise.
Loon products are OK, but Clear Cure Goo seems to hold up better over time. Regardless of which one of these I use, I always apply a thick top coat of Sally Hansen's on my flies. Sometimes two. What I like about these UV curing products is that they are easier to clean up, move around to shape and cure right when you want them to. You are not bound to X # of minutes with the non UV cure epoxies. The UV cure epoxy seems to have a longer shelf life once opened.
Traditional epoxies seem to be a little more durable, but the tradeoffs I've previously mentioned make them a less desirable for me to use.
hmmmm, once again thanks for the info guys, still got a lil more to look into. got kind of distracted tying up a box for spring time. but soon, the epoxy will come. . .
Doing it by hand (without a vise) and putting it on wheel quickly will get you this shape. Epoxy "wants" to flow into that shape on a wheel. Avoiding it is the hard part.
I can say that Bug Bond isn't tack-free either. I just got some and tried it a couple days ago. I hadn't heard about the alcohol wipe. I will try that next. And maybe I will go dig out some SHHAN. (is regular head cement OK too?)
I like the UV stuff because it's thick enough to stay in place, so it actually builds up quickly and in one coat--unlike SHHAN--too many coats, IMO. But I do want a shine to it. Maybe I'll try the leaving them in sunlight. Do I have to avoid touching them first?
I like the handling and how the stuff works. But it's not tack-free either. :-(
Thanks for the info on Bug Bond.
In regards to touching it, I avoid it until I'm done with the SHHAN topping. I tied up some coho flies with stinger hooks. I wanted to cut the front hook off.
I was in a hurry and the CCG was still tacky. By grabbing the head while it was still tacky the head seemed to get a bit less clear. I had cured it well with the light, so I'm not sure what the issue was. This was just my experience.
Hopefully as time goes by one of these companies will actually produce a product that is truly tack free.
That makes sense. I'm assuming that the dulling is basically oil off the skin or something? So perhaps with the alcohol wiping it wouldn't matter, but it makes sense to keep my mitts off it till I coat it, assuming I go that route. I just want that sheen that comes from a clear, hard surface.
I have just started messing around with this stuff, so perhaps I will figure out more as time goes on. The dulled surface isn't horrible, but it is clearly dulled compared to when I don't touch it. I'm not sure how much it matters hanging 15 feet down in a lake. Maybe in clearer, shallower streams where there is more sunlight it might be more of a factor.
Diamond Hard Tack Free UV Resin is about as close as it gets to being tack free. seits up clear and rock hard.
As much as I like the new light cured acrylics, at this point epoxy still is my go to coating especially on the production end. Mixing epoxy is as simple as you want it to be - one blob of each and stir and apply. Yellowing of five minute will always happen but if they yellow after 6 months then you are just tying not fishing. 30 minute will solve the problem. For me, coat the fly and put it on the wheel and you are done.
If I need a quick fly or head, then light cured acrylic works great. I sill think they Do not penetrate as well as epoxy or are the 100% tack free. Some have bad outgassing and residual stickyness can develop over thime.
What do I base this on? Over the last seven years I have tried them all and some that are not on the market with over twenty lights.
The one thing in common is you need the correct light and the one with a lot of power/watts.
Also you have to get the body perfect and then set eveyone with the light. Also the wheel will make them perfect if that is the shape you want.
Out of them all I would recommend Bug Bond or CCG. The biggest selling point is that they both use the same wavelength to cure so the lights are interchangeable.
Just my thoughts.......Brad
Brad, thanks for sharing your experience. I've bought bug bond, so I'll at least use it until it's used up. I'll see what happens and decide if I want to go back to epoxy after the season is done.
Tkww. You will like the Bug Bond. Fresh batteries are key. Better off with multiple thin coats. Good luck.
Yeah. Avoid the two part epoxy as others have said. There are so many better products on the market (i.e Clear Cure Goo) that it's not worth it to take the time mixing the epoxy and dealing with that shit.
I gave up on CCG and epoxy. Liquid Fusion for me! No smell, no mixing, no mess, no cracking, no yellow, no tack, and a lot cheaper! If there's a drip or two the stuff cleans up with water.
I think it's best attribute is... it shrinks as it dries securing materials in place so you won't get the big "bug eyes!" Awesome stuff! Of course you'll need a drying wheel as it does take a little bit of time to set (about an hour). Fish ready in four hours.
Gig Harbor Fly Shop has 4oz bottles for under $8.