Fly tying advice needed

I have been tying some beautiful Clouser patterns, and they work very well for silvers, cuts, and bullheads ;) .
The problem is that I can only cast them about 15 or 20 times before either the dressing slips down into the bend of the hook, or completely twists on the shank so the bottom of the pattern is on top.
I use wet fly cement v.s dry fly cement, and even gloss the shank on the initial thread wrap.
I also tried a wire wrap, and that helped with the sliding, but it still will twist up-side down after awhile.
Never had that problem with trout flies.
The only other thought I had was that my intermediate sink tip is too heavy, and when I double haul that line way out there it creates too much torque on the water logged bug?
My store-bought flies take a real beating too.
I don't even use peacock herl because it seems to just rip up too quick, and a tinsel wrap always comes unwraveled.
The most durable materials seem to be antron, bucktail, and flashabou.

Any thoughts, or suggestions would be appreciated on why I am having trouble with the fly dressing slipping on the hook shank.
F-A - Are you using mono for the thread? If not I would highly suggest swap the thread for mono

1)_ Tie the dumbell eyes one third of the hook shank length from the hook eye

2) The hair tied on the top of the hook is tide from just behind the eye down the entire length of the shank (over the dumbell eyes). This should make the hair exceptionally secure.

3) The hair beneath the hook is tied in just behind the eye and wrapped up to the beginning of the dumbell eye. Again this should make the material very secure.

Whip finish and glue with standard cement or whatever your preference is.

When I tie in this fashion my biggest problem it not hitting the fly on the rocks behind me. I have never had a clouser fall apart, however I have busted off the dumbell eyes on more than a handfull of flies due to hitting objects to my rear (mainly due to my poor casting). However even then the materials will stay intact minus the dumbell eyes.


Triploid, Humpy & Seaplane Hater
Nothing worse then having a nice fly fall apart after 20 casts. It's not your line. You might ding the fly on the back cast, but that likely isn't it.
It is your head cement. Use Super Glue on the lead eyes and your problem will go away. Regular head cement won't stop the eyes or material from sliding or rotating. Put down a base of thread on the hook shank and form several thread humps in front and back of the eyes for them to sit in. Make a few figue 8's, add some glue and complete with more figure 8's and another shot of glue. I like to really pin the white bucktail down both in front and back of the eyes. I also tie it down for a few wraps along the hook shank. If you are going to tie up a buch of flies, Do all of the eyes first. That give the glue a chance to dry.
Good luck,
PS Don't use the colored lead eyes. They break off really easy and are soft if dinged on the rocks. I've had equal success using the nickel Dazl Eyes. The eye is really for giving the fly its jigging motion.
Thank you all for your advice. I am sure this will remedy the situation.
The backcast has sometimes been an issue particularly on a lower tide, and hook breakage is usually the result, but with care to keep it up off the beach behind me, I do okay.
While I have your attention... Do any of you have a solution for the stripping scars on my fingers?
Saltwater tends to be more abrasive than fresh, and after stripping for several hours at least 3 days a week my fingers are all cut up from sliding the line through them on the strip.
Talk about "pouring salt in an open wound" :eek:
I tried duct tape but it seems like there has to be something better out there.
. Does someone make something like a "stripping glove" to protect your fingers?


Triploid, Humpy & Seaplane Hater
I'd recommend a stripping glove. It will stop the groove from being worn into your stripping finger. Another thing that works is the large sized Band-Aid brand "Sport" band aids. They are waterproof and will stay on all day. Slap a couple on and you're set to fish.


Active Member
Stonefish's replys might work better- I might give em a try.
I use good quality electrical tape wrapped around the finger which works well.
PS the superglue is what you need for the clousers. In addition to figure 8's i find it is inportant to wrap the mono around the dumbells perpendicular to the plane of the hook (parrallel to the tying desk) to pull the figure 8 mono tight.
I picked up a set of stripping fingers a few years ago - a small lycra tube that you can slide on the fingers in question. Work great.

Clousers - make sure you have a tight and neat thread base below the eyes first - do not tie them direct onto the hook shank.

I use a fingerless rag wool glove on my right hand only(my rod hand), that you can find in any store outdoor department. Only costs about $6 or $7 bucks: saves the groves on my fingers. Its generally what I wear in colder weather anyways.

Durability has not been a problem. Forgetting to bring it with me is the biggest problem, which I remember about the time I feel the sting in my index finger, and start running out of finger tips that are not sore.

Good question on the clouser problem, one that I too have had problems with on this and a couple of other patterns. Good suggestions from all on how to remedy the problem, thanks!