I need help with Chironomid fishing

Discussion in 'Stillwater' started by generic, May 18, 2013.

  1. generic

    generic Active Member

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    I was fishing a creek in Montana 20 yrs ago, tried an orange indicator with a stone nymph. Some really, really big browns kept coming up and inhaling my indicator. I couldn't figure out why, until a random Salmon Fly landed on my head. Just about that time, one of those browns grabbed my indicator and off he went.

    I fought that fish for two minutes, thinking the whole time, "This can't be happening. There's no hook on my indicator!". After a few more seconds, he let go. I put a Salmon fly (Sofa Pillow) on, no luck. Put a bare hook on my indicator - two fat fish.

    I've never had that happen since. Of course, I haven't used indicators since then either.

    These "inputs" are very helpful guys, thank you! Like I said, I've been fishing for 27 years now - and feel like a total newbie when it comes to this chirono fishing. It's kinda fun to learn something totally new!

    Heck, next is Tenkara fishing right? :eek: I'm kidding!!!
     
  2. Nick Clayton

    Nick Clayton Active Member

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    Totally agree with Ira's take on indicators. I have learned lots fishing with him, and the fact is that using tear drop shaped slip indicators have resulted in hookups that I would have flat out missed with other indicators. Some days the takes are ultra subtle, and having the right setup can make the difference between a slow day, or a productive day.

    Also haven't had any trouble spooking fish with the size of my indicator- though to be honest, mine are a little smaller than Ira's. He likes to make fun of them =o(


    If you want to get good at the vertical presentation game, my advice would be to head out on the lake with nothing but a floating line, some indicators, and various weighted flies. (Oh yeah, this technique is NOT just for chironomids. Try using the same method with micro leeches, worms, nymphys, bunny leeches... Using the same technique but with different flies can help you get dialed in to the method while still allowing you to find plenty of willing fish even if they aren't interested in chronnies at the moment) Leave the sinking lines at home for a while and you'll quickly find yourself learning how to use a floating line/indicator to cover just about any situation you can encounter on a stillwater.
     
  3. Rick Todd

    Rick Todd Active Member

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    When I am fishing a two fly rig on lakes, I tie the tippet to the main line with a triple surgeons and leave a 3" long tag end and tie the upper fly to that (using a loop knot) and then tie the bottom fly to the end of the tippet. I think it allows the upper fly to float and drift more normally. On rivers, this rig can tangle so I just tie the second fly to tippet tied to the hook bend. Rick
     
  4. skyrise

    skyrise Active Member

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    Ira, so what is your favorite brand of indicator ? if you would ?
    also this is just me, but i like some wind when chrono fishing. have had my best success with lots of wind. and if you stay out there in the wind. try your first fly with a dragon nymph then a mid.
    and funny, but try a slow troll with floating line and mid right on top.
    don't forget the shades of brown for color. i use green and root beer color flashabou for rib.
     
  5. Irafly

    Irafly Indi "Ira" Jones

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    http://www.floatsunlimited.com/p125rw-25.html

    100 for about $23 after shipping, or I guess you could just by 25 for close to $10. Still a lot less than the $1 indicators at the fly shops.
     
  6. Golden Trout

    Golden Trout Active Member

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    Good: Good Idea, I love cheap. Corkies are cheap as well. Shove a one-inch piece of swizzle through them and you have a slip indicator at a much cheaper price.
     
  7. Jim Speaker

    Jim Speaker Active Member

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    Thanks for the link for the indicators Ira. I exclusively fish slip indicators with midges as typically on Pass Lake I'm somewhere between 12 - 18' deep. These look great and much cheaper than the little packs of single color ones that sell out like hotcakes in the stores.

    Cheers
     
  8. zen leecher aka bill w

    zen leecher aka bill w born to work, forced to fish

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    Ira even got me to start buying them by the 100 pack.
     
  9. skyrise

    skyrise Active Member

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    Ira, thanks. i will add those to my box.
     
  10. Jim Speaker

    Jim Speaker Active Member

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    Nymphing at the Ford with an indicator is definitely a more sensitive thing than midging a lake. On lakes it really doesn't matter. At the Ford, yeah, the fish are very wary of indicators, fly lines, shadows, their own shadow. I catch fish at Rocky Ford using an indicator, but I do go with the smallest possible and cast well upstream of fish being targeted.
     
  11. Donato

    Donato Member

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    Let me get this stright, Ira uses the pear shaped 1.25 in peged float? Is this correct?
    Can I get by with the .75 or .87 floats? Does the peg have a hole in its center? Are all these floats by colored? Its looks like only the red/white is a by colored float, am I wrong on this. what is the best color to use and can the peg be put in the bottom hole also. I know all this sounds stupid but what the heck, you'll never learn if you don't ask.
     
  12. zen leecher aka bill w

    zen leecher aka bill w born to work, forced to fish

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    Check the top of the link Ira provided and one will find there's different size/shape floats available and also at least 3 different colors. Only thing I might mention is don't get the one that looks like a long narrow panfish float.

    It doesn't matter which size float you buy, but the larger ones are easier to see. It's just as easy to detect a strike on the Ira sized ones as it is on the smaller ones. Light strikes just cause the indicator to quiver.

    Peg on top? Peg on bottom? You say toma- to, I say tomah-to. What ever floats your chironomid. I pefer the peg on top as I'd like to believe that in case of a break off I might be able to recover the peg if it stays on the leader.
     
  13. Brian Miller

    Brian Miller Be vewy vewy qwiet, I'm hunting Cutthwoat Twout

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    I haven't figured out Chironomids either. Thanks for the concise practical approach. A couple of questions.

    What does
    2. "Tie on mids with loop" mean?

    In deep lakes (like Cady) do you lob out a 16' to 25' leader as best you can and back away?

    How do you store your very long Chironomid leaders to keep them from being a tangled mess when you go to rig them?

    Thanks for the extra help.
     
  14. zen leecher aka bill w

    zen leecher aka bill w born to work, forced to fish

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    It means tie the chironomids on with a loop knot as it allows the fly more movement.

    I have issues with the use of " 'mids" as everytime I see it I think of midshipmen cadets from the US Naval Academy.

    On leader lengths there is a length limit that can be fished. If one is in a PON'toon boat it's hard to fish much more than 12-14 feet of leader/indicator/splitshot as it "whangs" around so bad. Fishing from a boat where one can stand up lets the longer leaders be fished easier. I feel once the water hits 25 feet deep or more it is probably easier to use a short leader and a fast full sink line. Pre-measure the depth and only cast out that length of line and hand twist it back up.
     
    FNG and Olive bugger like this.
  15. Wayne Kohan

    Wayne Kohan fish-ician

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    Zen, I can whang myself in the back of the head with much less leader than 25 feet, in boat or on land. It is hard even to set the indicator with 25 feet of leader, but I have caught fish to nearly 20 feet with this set up. From a float tube. Truth is that I wasn't anchored, I placed the flies in the water where I wanted and then kicked backwards and away for a bit. From 20 feet down, they don't seem to care.

    Wayne