Intermediate lines!

Discussion in 'Stillwater' started by WA-Fly, Oct 21, 2012.

  1. LCnSac

    LCnSac John or "LC"

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    That's great! So you're saying that I in fact have probably dropped a line size in grains, but am casting better because the tip is now heavier, is that correct?
     
  2. mbowers

    mbowers Active Member

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    Exactly! IMHO
     
  3. LCnSac

    LCnSac John or "LC"

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    VERY interesting. Thanks so much for those calculations, MBowers. I just learned some valuable information. I see no reason not to cut back some other lines, maybe my just a few feet to try. I'll bet it will make a positive difference.
     
  4. gmole

    gmole Member

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    has anyone used the sage weight forward floating line....there on sale at cabelas for 29.99 regulary 70.00... just wondering why such a fire sale of that magnitude
     
  5. LCnSac

    LCnSac John or "LC"

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  6. LCnSac

    LCnSac John or "LC"

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    It's probably fine. I know the Orvis floaters often on sale for $29 are very good. You don't have to pay up for a floater in most cases. People like Albright lines too, they are even less.
     
  7. Blue

    Blue Active Member

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    I LOVE IT! I bought two. It is 230 grain and cast fantastic on 6 or 8 wt.
    I use the clear camo by Cortland. Problem I have had with clear lines is the memory in cooler temps. I really want to try that Hover. I take three to four rods out with me depending on water. If it is a deep lake, I take a floating, an Intermediate, Type II or III and a Type VII or Depth Charge 350. But I use two rods a lot to find where the zone is then use one. I use the Intermediate and the Type II to do this. I will cast 50 to 60 feet out, then kick while peeling more line out allowing it to sink (remember, even intermediate will hit bottom if you wait long enough) A lot of times I get to where there is maybe two turns on the reel of line. Then I start stripping the line in. I fish two flies per rod as well. Gets real interesting when both flies are hit on both rods.
     
  8. speyfisher

    speyfisher Active Member

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    Most often,"still water" is not completely still. Even the slightest breeze will ripple the surface enough to render a floating line ineffective in detecting subtle takes. Same with floating/sink tip lines. The intermediate line, sinking just below the surface, allows straight line contact with the fly.
     
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  9. GAT

    GAT Dumbfounded

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    My catch rate went waaaaay up when I started using a clear, intermediate sinking line (slime line).
    Before slime lines were available, Cortland sold a blue thing that sank far too slowly and it didn't work worth a damn, so you want to make sure you buy a product that does sink at a fairly constant rate. The slime lines will eventually sink quite deep if you give them time.

    I have Rio lines I use for saltwater fishing and I like them. I've never tried one of their clear intermediate lines but I have no doubt they are a viable option to SA and Cortland.

    The birds nest factor is a bitch. While my Cortland doesn't tend to foul up as often as my SA, it still does go wacky from time to time. I can spend a half hour messing around pulling line of my reel to clear the birds nest before I have a chance to make a cast. But considering the clear, intermediate sinking line works so well for me, I put up with the occasional hassle.

    If you are new to stillwater flyfishing, you will also need a very fast, full sinking line. I use a depth/fish finder to determine the depth of a lake and where the fish are holding. If the lake is deep and the fish are hugging the bottom, a slime line will not do the trick.

    This is why I carry a floating, intermediate sinking and fast sinking line. There are a few lakes I fish where I don't bother trying the slime line. I go straight to the fast sinker. If I'm fishing a midge hatch, I'll use the dry line with an indicator.
     
  10. Blue

    Blue Active Member

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    By "slime line" are you referring to the Airflo by that name or are you just referring to any clear line?
    If a lake is only 24' at the deepest (Henry's Lake) an intermediate will get you there, just have to count down.
     
  11. troutpocket

    troutpocket Active Member

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    Opposite opinion here. I quit using clear lines several years ago and haven't missed them a bit. I prefer the slowest sinking intermediates I can find (like the sky blue Cortland) for not only their versatility but also their handling and casting in all temperature ranges. Super effective lines in my experience. I've come the conclusion that clear lines are mostly a gimmick. If I'm fishing deeper than 6' I use a different line.
     
  12. LCnSac

    LCnSac John or "LC"

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    When I replace my shortened slime line, I will look first at a shooting line, a Rio OBS. Those are my favorite lines of any. They are perfectly weighted and seem to cast almost by themselves. I don't think they are density compensated though.
     
  13. LCnSac

    LCnSac John or "LC"

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    I tend to agree with you. The slime line to me is a specialty line, not a go to. I use a Uniform Sink Type II far more than anything else. Hard to say if it catches me more fish because I use it frequently or because it's effective but I do know I have the greatest confidence in it.
     
  14. GAT

    GAT Dumbfounded

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    It's amazing the difference between line experiences. Just about every successful stillwater fly angler I know in Oregon uses a slime line. One fishing buddy, Rocky, uses his even when I switch to a fast sinker.

    Whatever works for you.
     
  15. LCnSac

    LCnSac John or "LC"

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    Again, it's hard to say if we do well with a line because it's most effective or because we use it more. Two trips ago I was using a Type IV with a 15 second count down and fast stripping and my friend was using a slime line, slow trolling. We caught about the same numbers.

    There is one place where I will only use the slime line--Klamath Lake. Maybe I'm afraid Denny Rickards will see me with something else. He's the one who put me onto it years ago and Denny's not shy about opinions;-)
     
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