Discussion in 'Fly Fishing Forum' started by Jamie Wilson, Jan 21, 2007.
preston , i would be interested in seeing those pics if possible. thanks
I would like to see them as well!
Keough Epoxy Splice
You'll need a small quantity of acetone, toluene or some other strong solvent, some unwaxed dental floss, a sewing needle and some adhesive. Epoxy was the choice back in the day, but I've come to prefer a product like Softex or Pliobond that will remain flexible after curing. A needle vise is a handy tool to have and may be available from the hobby shop; lacking one you can use a pair of pliers. This splice works best with floating lines but, if done carefully works with sinking lines. Of course, it will not work with monofilament core lines.
Step 1: Insert the needle into the end of one of the lines to be spliced. Work it up and into the core of the line for about an inch. Bend the line and poke the needle out through the side.
Step 2: Remove the needle from the needle vise and put a doubled length of dental floss through the eye of the needle. Catching the pointed end of the needle in the needle vise, pull it through. Pull the two strands of floss out through the side of the line leaving the loop of floss sticking out the end of the line.
Step 3: Dip a couple of inches of the end of the other piece of line to be spliced into solvent for a few minutes. This will soften the coating and allow it to be stripped off with the fingernails. Fray out a half-inch of the exposed core and cut away about 1/3 of the fibers to taper it.
Step 4: Catch the tapered part of the core in the floss loop, saturate the exposed core with whatever adhesive you've chosen to use and, pulling on the two strands of floss, draw the saturated core up and into the core of the other line. Pull it up snugly (sometimes, especially when splicing a smaller diameter line into a larger, some of the smaller lines coating can actually be drawn into the core of the larger).
Step 5: Cut off the portion of core sticking out of the side of the line, roll the splice between a couple of books or boards to smooth the splice then allow it to cure. This is a very secure splice and, when carefully done, I've never had one fail.
I know the description makes it sound complicated but after you've done it a time or two it becomes quite simple.
Woah- that looks nice- how can you determine the core of the line- assuming you picked it up from someone/place other than a store -cut it open?
strip off a bit.... that's the best way....
Mono core fly lines are rare; I wouldn't worry about them.
Paint stripper and nail polish softener will make the plastic coatings easier to remove. Don't let the line soak too long. A neat way to remove line coatings, including unsoftened ones, is by tying a short looped length of heavy mono (say 15-20 lb. test), double-wrap it around the fly line 1/2 - 1" from the end, the other end of the loop around a tool handle (to save your hands), and yank. Repeat until you've exposed as much line core as you need.
OK- another question. If I want to attach the belly section to a flat mono running line- is the thread wrap/glue over the top the way to go? If so- I'm guessing that this connection, like most everything else, requires some routine maintenance to keep it smooth, etc.
I see that I forgot to list Aquaseal as one of the good flexible adhesives. It's probably the best. You'll probably only find monofilament used as a core material in clear (or camo) intermediate sink lines. Almost all other lines use a braided core of polyester or dacron.
I've always used floating running line (available from Cortland and Scientific Anglers in .029 and .032 diameters). I've never tried flat monofilament for running line, but a needle nail knot comes to mind as a method of attachment. I'm not sure how easy it would be to tie with flat mono, but it's a strong, compact attachment.
The flat mono has a little more memory than I like but when wet it will shoot like a mo-fo. The belly/falt mono interface is exactly the achilles heel of this particular set up. This is where I need a lot of help - making and maintaining a smooth connection because it is traveling through the guides all of the time- not in casting because it is the loading point, but when you are hooked up. I have found the factory line, as seamless as the are, get sticky when wet and do not shoot as far OR sink as well!!
I really don't know anything, but here's a cool article I came across.
Tried the new line. Casted great, easy to handle, disentegrated on day 2. I think I can fix.
I weighed the belly section and the sink tips. Both are 15' long. If all sink tips are the same length- 15 feet - is there a common differential among the weights of each of the sink tips over the 15 feet or is just a matter of preference?
Is there a standard that dictates the differences from a fast sink/med/slow tip?
I am having some real problems getting the floss AND the core through the the fly line. Just won't go all the way through. If I put glue on it- fuggetaboutit. Any tips?
Make a loop, as shown, with the dental floss. Tease out about two inches of the core (just take a needle and work it until the braid is undone). Clip about one third of the teased-out fibers of the core back about an inch-and-a-half. Put half-an-inch of the thinned part of the core fibers through the loop of dental floss and snug it up to the end of the line. Saturate the remaining length of bare core with Aquaseal and give the free ends of the floss loop a good, sharp pull. This should pull the core all the way into the line and out through the side. Pull everything up nice and tight, clip off the excess and roll the splice between a couple of books or boards to smooth it out.
Hope this takes care of any problem you might be having.
Thanks Preston - that's the exact tip I needed to get it down. I seems as if the glue sets up as SOON as you pull the core into the hole. Is this your observation as well? Seems like I have one shot and if you don't pull it snug enough you need to start over.