Discussion in 'Saltwater' started by Jake L, Jun 30, 2008.
But I'm just in this for the chicks.:thumb:
A little variation on your approach . . .
I drill holes in the sides of my basket, so it still draings yet retains a little water down in the bottom. To me I get the best of both worlds; the basket doesn't fill all the way, but it doesn't empty all the way, either. Like you, I think the water in the bottom keeps the line from getting 'sticky' as the line dries.
Clean fly lines are happy fly lines!
"Course that'd make it much harder to use as an "emergency float" too, huh? Guess ya gotta pick yer priorities....:beer1:
I guess you better only put in as many holes as you can reach with your fingers if you are counting on floating on it for survival.
I don't count on my stripping basket to be my life preserver; I use an inflatable vest. I trust that it could hold up my 210 a little better than the Orvis plastic bucket . . . :thumb:
Cool that is a great idea.
The inflatable vest is another great idea. A lot of us now wear them when the surf gets ugly. I'm no youngster anymore, now adays if I get dumped with waders, a raincoat, and a sea anchor around my waist I might be tempted to let go of my rod.
I bought a collapsible basket yesterday morning before my first fly fishing outing. It cost me about $40.00. I will have to say that it was a little awkward but the waders on the beach rocks were awkward as well.
The one thing I know, as a beginner, is that I would have one hell of a mess with the line sitting on the water without a basket. Seaweed or whatever you want to call it everywhere!
Just my beginner 2 cent observation.
I've been using the William Joseph stripping basket for a while. Just an FYI, the new William Joseph stripping basket is now out and is similar to the old one but they have changed the design on the mesh pouch and have reinforced it to make it more rigid. It appears to be a great improvement.
I have the new WJ basket but still needed to make a few modifications...especially with the tangle prone running line on the Outbound. Here is what I did:
Punched 4 holes and put 4 large plastic bolts/screws with big heads up thru the bottom (these are made for attaching stuff to the chassis of cars) and then glued (gorilla glue) a caster socket onto each one of the screws. The sockets look like this...
...and are usually put into the legs of furniture to recieve wheels like this:
Simple, cheap and works.
Sciguy, I like the plastic bolt receiver idea. What are the approximate dimensions of those plugs? I think seeing that has given me an idea or two. I think my newer gift outcast stripping basket is better than my willie j, but adding something like your idea to the bottom will probably improve them both. Thanks for the post.
About 2 1/2" by 1/2"
They come in different sizes so you should be able to get what you want. After spending a hour in the hardware store trying to find something that is tapered (cone shaped) I gave up and settled on these. I considered using some really small funnels but couldn't come up with a good way to attach them to my basket.
So I've decided to go cheap, and use a piece of tupperware or a crate I have here. I'm wondering how small of a basket is too small. I'm using a standard WF line, no shooting head. And as my casting skills aren't the greatest I rarely would have more than sixty feet of line in the basket. I think too small would increase tangles, but what if I have some cones or zips or something to reduce it? In every other way it seems smaller is better right? Any experience with too small?
ps, I'm amazed at how long this thread has stayed alive. I hope it has enough life left to get this question answered.
Oh ya and the dimensions I'm looking at here are a plastic milk crate that is 9 1/2" by 7" by deep enough. The tupperware container is 13 1/2" by 7 1/4" by deep enough.
My laundry basket version is about 18" wide, 15" fore to aft and I've cut it down to about 5" deep. My newest outcast is a bit smaller than that. My william joseph is even smaller at about 12" wide and opens to about 10" fore to aft.
I've never used the hard LL Bean or Orvis ones, but have seen many guys on the beach with them. If you can find their meausrements you may want to replicate them as they are smaller but many seem to like them.
Spend $5 and get a Rubbermaid dish pan. The dish pan is usually waaay lighter and less clunky than a crate.
IMHO, when possible larger, tapered cones are better.
Well the crate I have is not quite a milk crate. Its very light, but I think too small. I'll go with the tupperware container or like you said a dishpan would be just right huh?... off to go build it.