Picked up a nice centerpin rig at a good price from a guy who decided it wasn't his thing.
I'm curious what y'all run under the float? Jigs or beads? It seems like jigs would reduce the need for fiddling with shooting patterns which seems like a pain in the arse...
I'll still spend most of my time swinging with my spey rod but I'm always interested in learning something new.
i remember getting a ration of shit for bobber fishing with gear for steelhead by a well known peninsula guide back in 1995. i wish i hadn't quit bobber fishing and sold my centerpin outfit now that it is uber kool
i remember getting a ration of shit for bobber fishing with gear for steelhead by a well known peninsula guide back in 1995. i wish i hadn't quit bobber fishing and sold my centerpin outfit now that it is uber kool
All in a days work chasing coastal chrome. I prefer to catch every steelhead on a swung fly but then again I just really love fishing of all varieties when I get the chance. It's fun.
Ooooo, I want to play Sean, even though I prefer to catch my fish under an indicator, I guess I would be willing to stoop so low as to boringly swing for one some day.
Surprised you've had so many issues using braid on a baitbaster. I use it on all my baitcasters when float fishing and haven't had any problem.
Freezing weather is the only time I've found it sucks.
SF
Thinking its clueless fly fishermen running to fine of braided lines. You jokers need to look at the line diameter match that to the diameter of the mono you think you need & run that. Good start is to bump up to the 30-50 lb. test stuff.
To keep the fished pinned, without the swivel the 'gator roll' from coho will rip the hook out of their mouths. It also places the hook a little farther off the spoon for a better hook up ratio. IMO.
I thought the beauty of braid is that it is significantly smaller diameter for a given pound test, i.e., 30# braid = same diameter as 10# mono. If you bump up the braid size to 50#, why not just use mono, presuming one doesn't need 40 or 50# test for basic freshwater salmon and steelhead fishing?
Immediate hooksets, better feel of lure action or the river bottom, and the ability to run a short mono leader lighter than the braid to avoid loosing any of the braid mainline when snagging rocks and logs; I've left very little braid in the rivers over the last few years.I also find that braid over 40lbs is less susceptible to line twist than mono less than 20 lbs.
The smaller diameter can be an advantage when a belly in the line is undesirable (ie. swinging spoons or trolling), but thin braid tangles are a biatch, so I stick to 30lb braid for float fishing and 40-65lb for casting. I have 50-lb on my pin rod but have yet to fish it.
As for backlash, it usually occurs when I snag something (rod, bush, boat, cooler, friends) on the backswing of a cast, or when I change to a different weight lure but forget to adjust the spool drag and bearing tension on a casting reel.
I use braid for all my gear fishing. I think I have 30 lb spooled. It's so thin that I gotta believe that it's thinner even at 50lb. There are a few issues with it. Knots are tougher to tie. You need a knife with you (learned that one today), and the rats nests.....oh the rats nests.
As mentioned, braid is great for mending.
I uses mainly use 40 lb on my baitcasters, which is equivalent diameter to 10 lb mono. I generally use 8-12 lb leaders, so you always break the leader and never lose your float if you snag up.
Learn how to tie a palomar and double Uni knots and you should be pretty well covered for fishing braid.
As far as backlashes go, still not sure why folks are having so many issues using braid on their baitcasters?
SF
Any favorite brands of braid for casting reels? I'm gonna switch one of my float rods to braid and would prefer a stiffer line. TufLine Supercast is supposed to handle more like mono, but one of the reviews I read says that it sinks, which I don't want for a float rod.
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