Replace entire cork grip?

Discussion in 'Rod Building' started by kurtataltos, Aug 13, 2012.

  1. kurtataltos

    kurtataltos Active Member

    Joined:
    Jun 15, 2007
    Messages:
    148
    Likes Received:
    58
    Location:
    Los Altos, CA
    For better or worse I acquired an otherwise very nice fly rod in excellent condition except... the grip. It is badly chewed up. I think the previous owners puppy got ahold of it (literally). Regardless, I need to replace the entire grip. The question is; how? If I strip the entire grip mess currently in place off that should yield some epoxy on the rod (or whatever was used). That could be carefully sanded as necessary. The question is, could a take a half wells full cork grip, cut it in half, lay it over the rod, glue and clamp back together? Is that even feasible?

    Thanks !
     
  2. fly-by

    fly-by Active Member

    Joined:
    Mar 31, 2006
    Messages:
    164
    Likes Received:
    34
    Location:
    Tangled in the Pines
    You could do that, but it will likely leave a very obvious glue line and it's a lot easier to evenly ream a handle in its normal state vs cut in half. You would have to guess how much to ream, cut it, then fine tune it again. No need to take off the old epoxy really.

    If it's a 4 piece rod the stripping guide is likely on the second section so all you need to do is remove the hook keeper and winding check, ream out a new grip with enough diameter to fit over the old epoxy + a little new epoxy , then reinstall everything. It will look nicer and may be just as easy in the end.
     
  3. Steve Kokita

    Steve Kokita FISHON206

    Joined:
    Sep 28, 2008
    Messages:
    858
    Likes Received:
    364
    Location:
    Burien, Washington
    Another option is you can take off the reel seat, remove the grip and ream the new cork "backwards" By this I mean larger diameter in the front of the grip, then build up the blank with masking tape to fit the grip. The reel seat should come off by dipping it in boiling water, this will loosen the epoxy. This method you won't have to match the thread for the wraps. Just my .02----Steve
     
  4. Jim Darden

    Jim Darden Active Member

    Joined:
    Nov 2, 2004
    Messages:
    1,174
    Likes Received:
    401
    Location:
    Bellingham, Wa.
    Steve....that's a brilliant solution! the only problem I see is if your winding check won't cover the gap between the top of the grip and the blank. Any thoughts on that problem? I guess you could split the top cork ring, it would leave a seam but wouldn't be as bad as splitting the whole grip.
     
  5. ambassadeur10000

    ambassadeur10000 Member

    Joined:
    Sep 20, 2012
    Messages:
    159
    Likes Received:
    7
    I'd just pull off the guides in the way of a new grip. Put a new grip on and rewrap the guides
     
  6. Steve Kokita

    Steve Kokita FISHON206

    Joined:
    Sep 28, 2008
    Messages:
    858
    Likes Received:
    364
    Location:
    Burien, Washington
    So did you get the rod fixed? Is it back fishing????
     
  7. freestoneangler

    freestoneangler Not to be confused with Freestone

    Joined:
    Jan 1, 2006
    Messages:
    5,878
    Likes Received:
    1,514
    Location:
    Edgewood, WA
    I tried doing the split-half process on a fore grip cork and the bond line looked crappy...worked, but just always had that patch look. I suggest doing it the long way -- carefully removing the reel seat, cork handle and stripping guide then re-build. If it's a relatively new rod, you should be able to match the other section wraps/colors very closely and most of the better manufacturers use components readily available from Angler's Workshop.
     
  8. YAMMY

    YAMMY Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2010
    Messages:
    156
    Likes Received:
    8
    Location:
    Abbotsford B.C. Canada
    Watch out with boiling water as the tempm is very close to the temp of the resin used in graphite rod construction-you could end up with a GENUINE NOODLE ROD! No easy way out-trip the rod of old cork and reel seat and do it properly IMHO
     
  9. chrome/22

    chrome/22 For him there whould always be the riddle of steel

    Joined:
    Mar 2, 2007
    Messages:
    448
    Likes Received:
    72
    Location:
    Hurricane Ridge, WA.
    I did that with my RS4 8 weight. Cork was just crappy, so I broke off most of the old cork, scraped off the rest. Used a heat gun to soften the rodbond holding the reel seat on, slid it off. Reamed out the new full wells cork, slid in on. (Note here...my rod had a metal winding check it coverd the gap in the cork.)

    Re-installed the factory reel seat & added a new fighting butt............perfect!!


    c/22
     
    Joe Mateas likes this.
  10. otisotis

    otisotis Member

    Joined:
    Dec 11, 2010
    Messages:
    87
    Likes Received:
    3
    Location:
    reno
    If it were me,I`d wrap it in duct tape and fish it awile to make sure I likr=ed the danfg rod.
    Boiling seems to be theway to go-just make sure you do have to run off to do something...let us know how it comes out...pictures?
     
  11. WABOWMAN

    WABOWMAN Active Member

    Joined:
    Feb 26, 2011
    Messages:
    436
    Likes Received:
    28
    Location:
    Port Townsend,WA
    You can also get some of the nice shrink tubing like for electrical wire.they have some for rod grips. fill the holes in the grip and heat up the tubing.you can get it through Mud Hole or utmost enterprises in Sequim.
     
  12. dmlach

    dmlach New Member

    Joined:
    Aug 9, 2012
    Messages:
    19
    Likes Received:
    0
    I had the same problem with an older rod Orvis "Saltrodder" 9'-9wt. After reading many discussions on the topic, I did what many had suggested on this forum. First carefully removed the cork grip and most of the epoxy off of the blank. Then I used boiling water to remove the reel seat. This step is contraversial among many because some believe it can damage the blank. To be cautious I boiled the water, turned the heat off and allowed it stop boiling before dipping in the water. i think its important to hold the rod straight up in the water and not allow it to rest on the bottom of the pot so that the blank will not bend due to overheating. It took a few minutes of soaking and a few different times but I was able to muscle it off. From there remove the tape/glue on the blank that was holding the reel seat. Then take your new grip, ream it just large enough so that it will slide on to the bottom of the blank (fattest part). I bought a new winding check a tiny bit larger than what was needed, I figured the epoxy would fill in the small gap which you cant even see on the finished rod. Then just put all your components back on the rod in reverse order and your finished. Be sure to remember when you put your reel seat on to line it up with your guides!! I posted a picture of the rod I completed so you could see how it turned out.
     

    Attached Files: