Discussion in 'Saltwater' started by Mr.E, Jul 29, 2007.
When you do give a report of what you think of that line.
There's nothing wrong with trying one out; the two lines are so similar, integrated shooting heads with running lines, but I guess it's no big deal if you have $60 to burn . . .
It's all good. Hey, helps the shop guys stay in biz! :beer2:
You have to mean this in jest.
Looks like Les, Preston, Bob Young, Leland, Stonefish, Dan Blanton, Bob Popovics, et al and all of you other myriad experienced beach and saltwater fishers (and even me!) still using stripping baskets need dragged in to modern times . . .
Standing the water with tide and debris swirling around a person's legs, guaranteed you won't be getting the no false-casting 80 to 90 foot cast without the stripping basket! :beathead:
I guess for some folks it's better to be macho and look cool by not using a stripping basket rather than not fish effectively . . . hey, but to each their own! :beer2:
$60 to burn? I have a 7wt rod I got specifically for beach fishing that needs a line. My old 6wt with the 40+ line is fine, but I like the 9.5ft 7wt for salmon and I also like having 2 rods strung up - 1 with a floater for surface\shallow water fishing, and one with an intermediate line. So it's $60 that will be spent either way.
Sheesh - don't you have anything better to do than bust my chops??? :hmmm:
Ok, I know what's going on... you have signed up for the Old Man Jim Curmudgeon apprenticeship program. Looks like you are going to graduate with honors! :rofl:
Just stick with it! You'll have it down in a few days on the water and the you'll love it. I remember my first day with an Outbound line; a lot of swearing!
Stretch the living daylights out of the line EVERY time you use it!
Make sure that a foot or so of the "head Portion" is inside your tiptop on your last backcast or your line will hing badly and feel all wanky....
Slow down your cast, really feel that rod load. It was designed to require very little aerialized line for long casts and then a big "shoot" at the end. Let the line do the work.
Once you get the rythym, you'll love the line.
Stretch, Stretch, Strech every use!
Stripping baskets rock. I use mine everywhere - beach, boat, river, wherever.
Great advice! I too found that letting some line shot back on the backcast helps to throw this line!
I'm confused by your statement which was:
Here's my confusion:
Given your Jim Teeny TFO 10', 7-weight, a Rio Outbound box-marked 7-wt has a 37.5 foot head with a weight of 275 grains. AFTMA for a 7-wt is 177-193 grains. You're already at an AFTMA 10-wt (270-290 grains) just with a box-marked 7-wt line. Are you saying "bump it up" to mean go to a Rio Outbound box-marked 8-wt (330 grain head or AFTMA 11-wt) or "bump it up" by going down one box-marked line weight to a Rio Outbound 6-wt (240 grain head or AFTMA 9-wt)? Your statement was that you were "using a 250 grain line of this type...and it cast pretty nicely." Rio's advertising for the Outbound line states "...Designed to load high performance rods quickly with few false casts because the 37.5 ft head is heavier than the AFTMA standards...." I assume you meant go down one line weight to a box marked 6-wt since your 250 grain line "...cast pretty nicely..."
I quit screwing around with the latest and greatest saltwater lines several years ago and now stick to 30' shooting heads in the salt - roll cast to get the head and overhang out, single back cast (shooting into the backcast for distance if needed) and then let 'er fly. The other advantage is quick change between floating, intermediate and various sink rates as conditions or fly choice dictate not to mention ability to cast with limited backcasting distance given sharp sloping terrain (or people at PNP.) It works for me and I certainly don't mean to say that others will enjoy them as I do.
Shitsa...everybody should dedicate the month of August to Double Taper Floating Lines only and use split shots/leader lengths/weighted flies/etc. to adjust to the differences. And learn how to roll cast too! So many options today and so few yesterday, So much bitchin today and so much I'll make it work yesterday. Whatever.. just cast it :hmmm: :beer2: :beer2:
Sheesh, dude, not busting your chops!
It seems so tough for a person to find a line thye like (see how this thread initially started). In my first post I was just perplexed on why a person would change from a line with which they were impressed to try out a similar but different brand line with which other folks were having issues, and I was asking why you were doing it.
Like, although you were/are impressed with the Airflo, is there something about it that isn't satisfying you for you to try the Outbound? Does it not turn over, is the running line to kinky, or . . . ? Heck, you just might want to try a new brand of line. I'm just curious why you're trying a new line; this whole thread is about educating folks on the Outbound and other similar lines, and if there is something deficient to you about the Airflo it might be a point of interest for someone considering that line.
Damn! Took a buddy up into an estuary/tidal creek yesterday, looking for searun cutts. We were both planning on using our 4 wts, but I had my 6 wt along with my reel loaded with the Rio Outbound for a backup, as I have seen searuns working schools of baitfish in the estuary before, and I wanted to be prepared to cast a baitfish pattern longer distances if the situatioin arose.
He had just returned from a trip to Colorado, and hadn't even unpacked his fly fishing duffel. (I can't imagine doing that before going out on another, different kind of trip). He pulls his reel (Scientific Anglers) out of the bottom of his duffel, and the seat is broken...most likely due to gorilla baggage handlers tossing the bag around (we won't chew him out here for letting his reel be in such a dangerous place, as we all make mistakes).
I was then faced with the choice of letting him use my 6wt setup, or loaning him my 4 wt reel. I loaned him the reel, as I have witnessed him breaking rods before. so I ended up using my 6 wt with the intermediate Rio Outbound for casting and stripping Reversed Spiders for the cutties. The wind came up pretty strong, so I wasn't too bummed using the 6 wt. The one 12" searun I caught even put a good bend in the rod for a bit. It was too sunny, bright, and windy for good fly fishing an exposed tidal creek, but my buddy finally caught a nice 13"er, in spite of the wind having its way with us.
I was making a cast, and decided I needed a little more line, so stripped some out during a false cast...then decided I needed one more strip to reach my target and *POP* I snapped my running line off with the next strip...wind must have blown a loop of the line around the reel handle (only thing I can figure out) and it popped! Damn! The spot it broke at was only a foot into the running line, and it seemed a bit frayed right there.
Now I have to splice this thin floating running line. Should I use the braided mono loops? The smaller diameter ones would be the ones I'd have to use. I have spliced lines before, and have whipped the braided mono loops onto the ends of some of my lines and sinktips, so I know how to do this. I don't think I will be swapping heads with this running line, so maybe just a solid splice? The break is only a foot into the running line, so I'm thinking of cutting off that one foot still on the head and making the splice between the head and the running line. Would this be the best way to go?
You can certainly use mono loops to splice, if you want to make a looped shooting head setup out of it.
Or, just use the braided line to splice the two pieces together. I did it on a Leviathan, and the juncture goes through the guides just fine, and it's held up under some pretty hard pulling. Make sure the two pieces overlap slightly, and Pliobond over the braid at where the two cut line ends are located (to keep the little ends from popping through while casting or whatever). Nailknot the ends of the splice, Pliobond over them, and you're in business. :beer2:
Thanks Richard. I don't think I'm going to be swapping heads. I'll probably just do the straight splice you described.
I posted earlier about not enjoying this line, but now that I have used it for four outings, I wouldn't replace it for another. On my first outing, I was conscious that it was a shooting line so I fished it much different. I would only allow about 2"-6" of running line to extend beyond the tip of my rod before I tried to double haul and let the line fly. Now, I have realized that beyond having a much heavier head, it is similar to casting a wf line only, you can easily shoot 20-30 ft of running line without much difficulty. What I do know based on the great wealth of information from this site, is to on my last cast, shoot about 10' of running line on my backcast and then haul as I make my forward cast and release the line with my rod tip pointed much higher than with a wf line. The running line will rip through the guides and send the head flying forward.
What I don't like about this line thus far, is that the running line will begin to dig into my skin on my finger, due to its small dia and leave it bleeding. This can be fixed by gauze and I will remember that next time. Secondly, the running line gets tangled fairly often and you are left fixing a birdsnest upon making your cast.
If you are anything like me, if I get to the beach and see any signs of fish as I am setting up, I tend to rush stretching out the running line. Over the last few weeks, what has helped is the night before I strip out and stretch the running line, going through it at least twice 3 ft at a time, and I leave it laid out in loose lines outside on the deck. In the morning, I coil the line in my stripping basket and only wind it on to the reel for the walk to the beach if wearing the basket is out because of the terrain. It doesn't eliminate running line problems but doing this has reduced my frustration with the Outbound. My rod fits into my vehicle, so the line stretching is done with the rod and reel set up. Now, consistently getting long casts out is another matter, but I can no longer blame running line issues (damn!).