Rod handle/reel seat project

Discussion in 'Rod Building' started by OhioOutdoorsman, Aug 4, 2006.

  1. OhioOutdoorsman

    OhioOutdoorsman New Member

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    Got a rod handle kit with cork and real seat to put on a rod I already have. This is my first "rod building project" and want to put it on a rod.

    I need to file out the handle to fit my blank. After I do this is there anyway to get the cork on without removing the hook loop?

    Also I see on all of my rods that I currently have some sort of bushing (rubber/plastic) but have not read or found replacement bushings. Is this something I need?

    Any tricks for removing the old handle/seat besides sting them in boiling water to loosen the epoxy?

    Any other things I'll need to do?
     
  2. luckybalbowa

    luckybalbowa Member

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    the bushing is called a winding check. You are going to have a hard time with this project. Make sure the rod is worth the effort before you begin
     
  3. FlyShopKristin

    FlyShopKristin Going Online

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    I read the post above and was going to try to put a nice spin on an answer for you...but, I can't :). Rod handle repacement is a bear of a job, not a job I'd want for a first rod building project.

    And to answer your question - no, the taper of the rod means you will need to remove the winding check too in order to slide the handle down the taper.

    Sorry we haven't had more encouraging info for you. :hmmm:
     
  4. OhioOutdoorsman

    OhioOutdoorsman New Member

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    Yep, I now realize how big of a job it is......would probably easier to build a rod from scratch.
     
  5. Bert Kinghorn

    Bert Kinghorn Formerly "nextcast"

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    Not probably...ABSOLUTELY easier!
     
  6. Banzai

    Banzai FFing and VWs...Bugs & Bugs

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    Kristin is right, this is not an easy repair. I've done exactly this for a couple of different rods I own. At best, you will be removing any hook keepers, guides, winding checks and possibly any built up areas of decorative windings on that butt section. Oh, you didn't say if the rod had a female ferrule on that section, if so, remove it as well. Basically anything that was applied to the blank and built up its diameter. You will want your new cork to fit as closely as possible to the diameter and taper of your blank. A winding check will help to hide SMALL defects in the end of your new cork should you get a little carried away with reaming it out. Check out some of the posts here this forum from a couple months ago where we discussed removal/replacement of of a reel seat and cork. If you want to keep this rod, the reward will be well worth the effort. At the least it will be good training for building your next one. Good luck.
    edit: I guess you can't go back that far. Just checked and I can only go back to about May. I think this was dicussed in late winter. If you want to pursue this task, check first with a local fly shop or a rod builder (they should be able to direct you to one) help/guidance. If that fails, check back here and someone will provide some advice.
     
  7. Bert Kinghorn

    Bert Kinghorn Formerly "nextcast"

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    One more thing!!!

    Getting all that old rod finish, thread, cork, glue, and the reelseat off is going to be quite labor intensive. You will quickly find yourself tempted to use all manner of power tools and even extreme force. Just remember, if you nick that FRAGILE blank it is GAME OVER!

    Been there, ...!
     
  8. mtlhead

    mtlhead Member

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    You guy's are a bunch of party poopers! This is where it gets fun; Don't think of it as a project, think of it as a process. Being it is a "first timer's" project, if it is an old rod with sentimental value or high cash value let someone help you, or better yet show you the correct way to do this.

    In referance to the project at hand, it's a matter of first removing the old winding check, hook keeper, and guides from the butt section of the rod to allow you to slide the new reamed cork back onto the blank after preperation for the new componants. To remove the cork and reelseat, I make a slit along the center line of reelseat and cork, then rotate the grip 180 deg. and repeat the slit. This step requires steady hands and precise accuracy, cutting too deep and breaking the surface of the actual rod blank will cause damage to the integrity of the blank.Hot water will usally soften the glue in the handle enough to aid in the removal of the two halves of the grip assembly, if it doesnt help you will be chippin' away the remaining material to bring it all back to size.

    Keep in mind, rod building is supposed to be fun and we all love a challange.

    You can PM me if you want to talk more about this or any other projects.