salt boat input

Discussion in 'Watercraft' started by orangeradish, Aug 14, 2010.

  1. BFK

    BFK Member

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    I asked the dealer about the timing, Jerry, and he didn't know. He said it was "recent". However, the trashed Lund I looked at was a '98. The disclaimer here is that this Lund had spent summers moored in front of someone's house, so it may have had something to do with electrolysis as well. But, then the major flaking was above waterline. Every joint on the ring deck (or gunwale deck) had serious paint issues.

    I had a Lund for a long time and used it in the salt occasionally with no problems, but it was a mid-80s.

    The dealer did say that he saw fewer paint problems on "smaller" boats. The boat I looked at was an 18. I did talk to one other Lund owner who had a relatively new boat that he used some in the salt but mostly fresh, and he noted that he "minor" paint issues on the joints of the decking and inside. Of course, he was trying to sell it...
     
  2. yellowlab

    yellowlab Active Member

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    Chris, while I would love to have a center console, our weather and conditions warrant a windshield boat for my choice. There is a decently priced Wellcraft out of Redmond with 4 stroke Honda 115, looks to be in pretty good condition and low hours for a center console.

    That motor alone new would probably be the cost of the full package...

    http://seattle.craigslist.org/est/boa/1903036308.html
     
  3. Ed Call

    Ed Call Mumbling Moderator Staff Member

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    Paul, I agree that there are certain benefits of an enclosable space. I have three of them living in the house right now. We sure would get more out of our boat year round if I had some wrap around protection, even fabric attached to the existing bimini top would be a plus. Chances are good that we'll be looking for a more family friendly boat soon too. Fishing is important, but not the only objective. If you see one well below your price range, let a poor man know!
     
  4. JesseC

    JesseC Active Member

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    Yellowlab - what did you end up replacing your boat with? I was seriously considering it, but after thinking through the purchase I decided I would need something bigger really soon. Too many friends to take along and I'd need the capacity for at least 4 people.

    It seems like you really know what you're talking about - so your advice on a bigger boat would be great to hear!
     
  5. Lonesome Sam

    Lonesome Sam New Member

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    This thread is very informational. I am trying to sell my house so I can move back home, SE Alaska this time. I have a question for everyone: Where I'll be living I will encounter shallows so aluminum is best, plus the Taku River is accessible with the right boat. So what are the pros & cons of inboard salt water jet vs. outboard (mounted on a jack plate) with ability to drop lower unit and put install jet?
     
  6. yellowlab

    yellowlab Active Member

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    Jesse,

    I really don't know what Im talking about, as I am a newbie to power boats. I do know what I like and what I don't and found that having alot of floorspace is crucial for fly casting and or manuevering around. That being said, a combination of not too steep a V is essential for casters to be able to hold and cast a fly, troll, mooch or whatever they desire is important. There is no perfect boat that can do everything, but what I've found is that when you're out, you want to have something reliable and that you can depend on in case something happens. I have a pretty specific search and price range for what Im looking for, so it may take some time to locate the right boat. I am willing to wait it out until the off season for the right boat. I am looking at welded aluminum hulls with a steeper bow deadrise and variable midrise and relatively flatter aft so it will track and provide stability when fishing or trolling. I like a step up and walk through windshield with a recessed bow area where I plan to have a customize casting brace constructed to allow for stability for the bow caster. Also want as many non-tangle or fly line catching edges or corners as possibly to reduce the chance of missing the opportunity for a fish when a line is caught up on some cleat. Once I find the boat, I'll post more info on my blog along with photos...
     
  7. Chris Bellows

    Chris Bellows Your Preferred WFF Poster

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    thanks for the link, but like you i'm being pretty picky about my choice of boats. i know that the water i fish (choppier and rougher) will require fishing from the back of the boat 95% of the time... so i definetely want more space behind the center console seat since that is the most stable part of the boat.

    boat buying is always a compromise. will you be cruising or taking family out? will you be fishing gear also? it's all about finding what works for you 75-85% of the time and making do the rest of the time.

    as for worrying about tangles on your boat fly fishing... there's a simple solution. you can either buy it or build one, but these things are the best for saltwater flyfishing. you can run from spot to spot with the rod rigged and line already out and it minimizes tangles. i used to have at least 2 rods rigged and ready to fish out at neah bay (sinking head with clouser and floater with slider.... both ready to fish instantly).

    [​IMG]
     
  8. yellowlab

    yellowlab Active Member

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    Topwater, I've seen this product and also have seen the cheaper version used, collapsible laundry hamper with a towel at the bottom to weigh it down. It folds flat and keeps the coils and lines to a minimum. I was thinking of integrating my Orvis hard bucket into the front of the bow casting brace and strip and cast from there. Leland was telling me how they spent alot of $$$ on the R and D to come up with those cones to prevent line from hanging up and or tangling.
     
  9. Ed Call

    Ed Call Mumbling Moderator Staff Member

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    I put a casting platform across the bow of my livingston. Under that platform deck I have a pop up hamper with one of those recycled rubber tree rings. It is easy to move around but stays put. Holds the striped out line well, not an issue for tangles and for short runs you set the rod upright in the basket and go. If your boat has more power than my 35hp it might be an issue with the barrel collapsing, not an issue in my speed zone. Pop up basket was about $5 at home depot. Recycled rubber tree ring was $10. Not as multi-use as an Orvis or similar basket if you beach your boat and walk the shoreline, but effective from the boat.
     
  10. PT

    PT Physhicist

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    I'd just keep putting some money in the bank and buy the right boat the first time. For me there was only 1 choice;)

    Topwater has it right. There are alot of compromises when buying a boat. Figure out what it's purpose will be and then start searching. There's a big difference between an Arima and a center console. If it's strictly fishing and most of that will be with a fly rod then a center console is the way to go. If youngsters are in the plans then some cover and a place to lay down are important.

    Good luck!
     
  11. Trout Master

    Trout Master Active Member

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    I asked the dealer about the timing, Jerry, and he didn't know. He said it was "recent". However, the trashed Lund I looked at was a '98. The disclaimer here is that this Lund had spent summers moored in front of someone's house, so it may have had something to do with electrolysis as well. But, then the major flaking was above waterline. Every joint on the ring deck (or gunwale deck) had serious paint issues.

    electro;yis will happen when a aluminum boat is kept in the salt water, the boat has to be zinc'd for it. The paint can bubble all over and not just below the water line. There are alot of other factors to look at. was it parked at a dock that had power on the dock? where there other boats there moored near it that had power aboard, batteries etc? Paint bubbling on a aluminum boat is the norm. Even million dollar mega yachts the are built out of it fight the problem.
     
  12. Mark Walker

    Mark Walker Active Member

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  13. Jeff Dodd

    Jeff Dodd Active Member

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    I have owned a 2005 Weldcraft Maverick 18' 6" boat for about 5 years now. I really like it and the Yamaha it came with. (18 degree bow, 14 degree stern) With the Yamaha mounted on the swim step. Weldcraft welds in a reverse chine hull and the boat plains quick and corners very well at speed. This deep V design is not in the current model boats, they have changed it some due to feedback from customers I suspect. I have no problem with it, but weight distribution in the boat is always a consideration.

    This boat fishes great, and the open bow can dump a wave reasonably well. Tracks well in the wind, as the bow is does not sweep up like some designs. The workmanship is top notch, as is the fisish of the boat. We just came back from Chelan, where the boat was a tube/ski boat for a week. Now it's back home and ready for Coho.

    When shopping, I recommend:
    - Check out the outboard, as Paul suggested. This is a MAJOR expense to replace
    - Consider a boat that has decent fuel storage (Ours is 42 gallons and it's about right)
    - Consider resale value if you decide it's not what you want
     
  14. orangeradish

    orangeradish Eyes to the sky...

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    Haven't checked this thread in a bit. Thanks again for all the good info! Mrs. Radish has graduated. Boat is forthcoming.
     
  15. Salmo_g

    Salmo_g Active Member

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    I have a Lund, 2004 model year. No issues with paint bubbling or flaking. The SSV model is a shallow vee and is much nicer than their traditional WC and WS skiff models for handling a fair chop.

    A cabin or cuddy is a whole different type of boat, and I don't see how such a design could be suitable for fly fishing. As was said, no one boat does it all. Seems to me like you have to choose between creature comforts or a fishing platform. My choice was simple: anyone who prioritizes creature comforts can stay on shore where they probably belong.

    Sg