Saltwater blank for SRC?

Willie Bodger

Still, nothing clever to say...
OK, I've built a couple of rods a few years ago and now I'm ready for a new rod, but not sure what to get. The use for this rod would be searching the sound for SRC or silvers close to shore, so I am thinking of a 6 wt as I already have an ORvis 9' 9wt for the bigger stuff. As for preferred action, I'm not sure. I fish a Sage LL in the lakes, but I really don't cast as much as I do searching for SRC. Any suggestions? I do know that I want a 9' 4 piece rod and I'm thinking faster action, but am open to suggestions from those more knowledgeable than I.


Scott Behn

Active Member
I'm in the process now of just applying my second coat of epoxy to my rod. The one I have built is a Pac Bay 7wt just for that very same reason...Coastal Cutties!!!!! As for action I would think a fast would be adequate. Multi-piece I'm not sure, the one I'm building is a 2 piece.

Are looking to build one or buy a factory Rod?


Willie Bodger

Still, nothing clever to say...
I'm thinking I would like to build one. I enjoy the project and control and the fact that I can spread the cost out over a while. I was looking at the Rainshadow rods today, they sound nice, but I've zero experience with them. I know some folsk have said they built the 4 wt and loved it, just wondering how =they handle the streamers.

I am currently planning to build the "ultimate" Searun rod. Here's what I am going to build, and why:

Blank: DanCraft FT 10'0" 6 weight: This blank is amazingly light, super fast, strong, and comes in a 4 piece. FT blanks generally handle line weights at least three times higher than the line weight the blank is rated for. So you can easily throw an eight weight line on the six weight if you need to. The backbone of these blanks comes in handy if you happen to hook a bigger salmon while targeting Searuns. Because I am not a great technical caster, and I fish from the beach, I am going for the 10 footer to get a bit more height on my backcast. Many beaches are sloped, and I often hit the rocks while back-casting flies with dumbell eyes.

Guides: Ceramics--either Fuji's titanium or Pacific Bay's new Titan titanium: Light as heck, corrosion resistant, super slick, and hard. They will never wear out, even with sink tips, shooting heads, and braided connections running through them. They also extend the life of your fly line.

Haven't decided what reel seat, but it will either be aluminum or woven graphite. Don't know if I'll go with RHW or FW grip, but I won't waste money on flor grade if it's going to be getting dumped in salt water. Definitely a small fighting butt.

Just my thoughts,


Scott Behn

Active Member
I'm in the process of finishing mine up and I suggest going with the full wells and a 2.5" fighting butt.

When I bring mine home I'll take some photos and post them. But I went with a Pac Bay 9' 7wt for my Cuttie rod. Full wells w/permanent 2.5" butt. Pac Bay Titanium coated aluminum reel seat, and titanium single foot oversized guides. Right now I just need to put one more coat on my inlay and shape the ass end of the fore grip and I'll be set.

wb: listen to riverdog! :) That Dan Craft FT would be incredible in the context you're describing, and is available in a variety of line weights in both 9' and 10' lengths. Drop by and you won't even need to do a search on them...they're talked about every day!

Titanium-framed sf ceramic guides would be the "ultimate" as RD suggests (incidentally, it's American Tackle, not PacBay, that just came out with the Titan guides)...the most renowned are certainly the Fuji's. If you can't be talked into the ceramics, do step up from hard-chromed to TiCh-plated for better performance and longevity at a price that won't break the bank.

For reel seats you've got TONS of options ranging from the efficient yet affordable Forecast line of aluminum seats to REC and Struble (et al) saltwater seats, to Struble's high-dollar titanium seat. I'd lean toward a fixed fighting butt as well--I always hesitate a little on removeable's in the salt, but technically that is an option too.

Have fun and let us know where you end up! :)


Willie Bodger

Still, nothing clever to say...
Hmm... Well, I hadn't thought about a 10' rod, so I got a 9' St. Croix SCIV in a 6 wt 4 piece. And I almost had the Abel Super 6 to go along with it.... Gosh!! Now , since it is a green blank, I have to decide if I go with a green reel seat or titanium, finish. And then single foot or snake guides... So many decisions. Also, I have a rod case, but not sure if the rod would fit with a fighting butt on it. And, I've never actually caught a fish where I needed a fighting butt. Guess that's kind of a pessimistic way of looking at it, huh? Well, I think it will be a green and black rod with single foot guides (the best I can get) and a small fighting butt (even if it's only for aesthetics when I fish it...).

Scott Behn

Active Member
Heh wb if you took a look at my 7wt there in the shop you'll notice that my 2.5" fighting butt only sits about a 1/4" beyond the rod blank. A removable fighting butt is going to be almost an inch past the rod blank.

Food for thought...



Afoot and Lighthearted
a second vote for the Dan Craft FT. I built the 10ft-8wt and I was so impressed, I ordered the 10ft-7wt. I frequently fish from my kayak, and the 10ft DC/FT's are fast becoming a favorite. The blanks as Satin Gray, and I used Gudebrod #524 (med gray), which I am happy to report, almost matched the color of the blank perfectly (after finish is applied)
Sorry for the late post Hunter, I turned mine by hand and use a couple of different grits of sandpaper. I did it this way cause I only put 2 cork rings on the ass end of the fore grip to accomodate the uplocking reel seat. Usually if we use cork rings for the whole grip we end up putting it into the power wrapper and sand it that way.
I just finished a Rainshadow/Forecast 11'6" 6/7 spey rod today. They are extremely high quality beautiful blanks. For my next project, I plan on building a switch rod for cutt's and light salmon with one of the 10' blanks. I'm going to add a five inch butt by epoxying a pice of scrap graphite blank up the rod butt. That way I can use it in tight situations with no room to backcast.