SBS SilverFly Anchovy

Discussion in 'Fly Tying' started by SilverFly, Jun 21, 2015.

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  1. Matt B

    Matt B ...

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    Heck I'm not sure. For salmonids I've always used the strongest mono I could fit through the hook eye doubled over. I did use some guitar string wire once but it was too brittle when bent. Here's one of my versions of the tuna pattern.
     

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  2. SilverFly

    SilverFly Active Member

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    Thanks. I'll probably stick to on-hook flies for now. I need to get a bunch done for this coming Thursday (weather permitting).

    Nice variant. That should get it done. Looks good too with the peacock and the red throat. I also like how you flared the strands of flashabou ala gill-plate. Steve Farrar blend?
     
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  3. Matt B

    Matt B ...

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    Body is EP fiber layered in ala your instructions, topped with gliss n glo, angel hair, and peacock. Red fishhair throat and pearl flashabou gill-plate.
     
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  4. SilverFly

    SilverFly Active Member

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    It's keeping it's shape nicely for having used straight EP. Probably because you nailed the vertical layering aspect since it looks to be fairly thin in cross-section.

    Bait fish naturally flex side to side, not up and down. Not sure that makes any real difference to a predator, but if you're shooting for realism might as well try to emulate that too. That, and I just prefer sparser patterns anyway. They seem to catch more fish, are easier to cast, and in this case I suspect sink faster due to the thin cross-section. That's assuming it sinks in an upright orientation which is one reason I tie it with the hook extending below the body of the fly.

    Again, nice job. Hopefully that will get eaten in a few weeks. :)
     
    Last edited: Aug 30, 2015
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  5. Matt B

    Matt B ...

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    I think the key to the layering in is keeping the material pinched in an oval as you tie it in. Learned that from some other pattern; can't remember which.

    And yeah, hopefully it gets "et" -- early, and often!!
     
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  6. SilverFly

    SilverFly Active Member

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    Glad you pointed that out. That would be this step when folding the split bundle over the top of the hook.

    [​IMG]

    This (crappy) picture is a bit deceiving in that the bundles should be pinched together closer to the shank. That forces the fibers upward, instead of outward. Harder to do on the underside of the hook but that's not really necessary since the belly fibers are trimmed short and need to flare a bit anyway. I try to gather the first two underside bundles that extend past the hook bend as much as possible though. For those, it's more a matter of aligning the fibers parallel to the the shank so they're gently compressed against the hook bend without flaring away from it.

    And yes, "et" it will be!
     
    Last edited: Nov 29, 2015
  7. Matt B

    Matt B ...

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    Yeah, my thumb and forefinger would pretty much be pinching the material up and down right over the area where the shank transitions to bend.

    I actually had better luck tying off a section for the top, then the bottom just slightly forward of where I wrapped the top, and then keep doing that moving forward up the hook shank. If I had EP fiber trimmings I would just dub that on the shank too. Stuff is too expensive to waste! I think I remember reading about a cheaper alternative...was it Congo Hair?
     
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  8. SilverFly

    SilverFly Active Member

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    What, you deviated from the SBS?!!!! ;)

    Actually, alternating but keeping the top and bottom bundles separate makes sense. Saves the bundle splitting step transitioning to the top. I'll give it a shot. Thanks!

    I did accidentally stumble on using excess EP for dubbing when some kept getting caught in the thread. Looked pretty good.

    Never heard of Congo hair. So many fly products it's mind numbing.
     
  9. SilverFly

    SilverFly Active Member

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    A couple of skinnier versions. Sand lance and pacific saury imitations.

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Nov 29, 2015
  10. SilverFly

    SilverFly Active Member

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    Reports of mackerel schools offshore prompted tying a bigger version. I was running low on EP so tied this one using Fishair and Polar Aire fiber. Also added a large gillplate and stripes using a Prismacolor pen in olive.

    Another deviation from the SBS was tying full length sections of Fishair and the polar fiber (or EP) separately on top to get the extra length that would be lost folding from the bottom.
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Nov 29, 2015
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  11. SilverFly

    SilverFly Active Member

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    Another change, or alternative approach to the SBS. I've been tying a lot of these and found that I can save some time by mixing the Fishair and EP ahead of time instead of alternating the bundles. No appreciable difference in appearance, but maybe a slight loss in flexibility at a 50/50 mix. I can probably adjust the ratio to correct that.
     
  12. freestoneangler

    freestoneangler Not to be confused with Freestone

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    Ooo... really like that that 3D mylar stuff. How in the hell I've missed that on the racks I dunno, but it's now on my radar. Cool fly.
     
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  13. SilverFly

    SilverFly Active Member

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    Thanks (I'm assuming you're referring to the gill plate things).

    Those are just saltwater flashabou strips laminated together with UV resin. I didn't think there was a similar product but apparently I missed this myself:

    http://www.wetahook.net/styled/index.html
     
  14. SilverFly

    SilverFly Active Member

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    Here's a mini SBS on the gill plates if anyone is interested in some tedious overkill tying for voracious saltwater predators. I'm glossing over a lot of sub-steps that should be somewhat self-explanatory. This is how I'm doing it currently but feel free to experiment.

    ============================================================================

    Step 1: Laminate lateral scale and saltwater flashabou strips. Using a plastic meat tray, stick a strip of lateral scale down with UV resin (do not cure). Next overlay with 4 strips of saltwater flashabou at roughly a 30 degree angle - also with uncured UV. For the third and final layer, overlay the lateral scale strip with 2 overlapping strips of saltwater flashabou, plus a third offset to what would be the under (ventral) side. Use a bodkin and/or a card edge to align and pack the strips, then cure fully:

    [​IMG]

    Step 2: Cut out and peel off strips with a razor as shown:

    [​IMG]

    Step 3: Cut to shape. Note, the third horizontal flashabou strip is to aid in bonding the angled strips and is trimmed off at the rear of the gill plate:

    [​IMG]

    Step 4: Fly ready for gill plates. On this version I used "black light" angel hair for the top wing and added a throat of red, hanked lite brite:

    [​IMG]

    Step 5: Plates tied in and aligned (wing is pulled down to show plate tips). Before attaching I put some slight folds in the plates to make them reflective at different angles: Then apply a drop of UV on the undersides to secure the plates.

    [​IMG]

    Step 6: Apply eyes. I've started using the decal type eyes to save some weight but actually think they look better (see next step):

    [​IMG]

    Step 7: Apply a small drop of UV to the eye and cure. At this point you can visually blend the upper edge of the gill plate and eye using a transparent marker before applying the final coat of resin. Prismacolor aqua used on this one, but also added another few strands of angel hair to fill out the top of the head (shown in last pic):

    [​IMG]

    Step 8: Gill plates fully epoxied. A little messy but you get the idea. And remember to clear the hook eyes before you're on the water - a "duh" moment from the last trip:

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Nov 29, 2015
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  15. SilverFly

    SilverFly Active Member

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    Another variant, really a different pattern since this is actually a slider.

    This is the result of poor judgment on my part by watching a recent tuna fly fishing video. They had a full-on feeding frenzy going and hooked a fish just below the surface. I'm sure that fish would have eaten a popper.

    Initially thought of tying an over-sized Miyawaki Beach Popper, but I didn't have any foam heads. Then considered tying a Crease Fly, but really think that a slider or diver type pattern would be best for albacore. The compromise was a folded-foam, Crease Fly style head - but inverted with the fold under, and trimmed off flat on top as a diver.

    Anyway, I'm starting to wonder if the weather will allow me to get out for tuna again this year, but hoping to get this thing wet if I do:


    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Nov 29, 2015