Discussion in 'Rod Building' started by Bob Jones, Dec 17, 2009.
Thanks for the spec's, evertrees. This will make my job easier!
Nice looking rod build. I made a hotshot with similar copper colors last year. I like it so much i'll probably go with the colors at least one more time.
I just have one suggestion. If you haven't applied the rod finish to the threads yet, you might want to move the trim band closer to the label so the label is centered in that area, but that's just me. I do a lot of my double foot guide wraps in asymetrical patterns which would make some people go batty.
I built the Bateson rainshadow 8 wt switch a couple months ago, like Evertrees I changed the guide spacing. I have been using an Airflow compact skagit at 420 grains, don't think I would go heavier. I tried a 360 gr AFS head on it a few days ago for touch & go casting and it worked nicely.
I did a rod once for a charity auction and it was a Rainshadow or Forecast. I applied the decal but did not put trim bands on the edges. I did put finish over the decal though. After I smoothed it out, I put in on the turner to dry. It was firming up, no air bubbles, life is great. Went for a run and got back 45 minutes later and the decal had lifted off the rod. I had to scrape it all off and I got a new decal from Batson as I had messed up the other one as well. Barely finished the rod in time.....
I don't use the labels on most of my personal rods anymore. I don't like seeing corporate labels and other logos or markings so i opt for a bit of simple hand writing usually on the bottom side to let me know what brand and model number of the blank. I know what you're talking about with stickers lifting. Some people get around it by using very several very thin coats of a low build rod rodfinish so it sets up without moving around too much. What works for me though is using a few coats color preserver over the label first, making sure the edges are sealed before a rod finish is applied. Other people seal labels and transfers with aerosol acrylic clear coat from art supply stores. I have not had a single label lift since but, as i said, i don't use many stickers these days.
Thanks to all for the information and comments they're a big help, enjoy your new rods to the utmost!!
I fished my new 5 weight last week at Lenice. I used it as my chironomid rod. It worked wonderfully, and it is a fun rod to land the fish on. It casts the indicator and long leader with little effort.
I used my 7 wt chironomiding also love it. the fighting butt lower grip saves the wrist when realing in the hogs. I think i will build a 5 wt next for lakes. Relay you absolutly can not have too many fly rods!!!!
Did you people who built the rods use Batson's guide placement or did you come up with your own through static testing of the blank?
I came up with mine by looking at what other manufactures did and measured and split the differences
here is mine
Guide order from the tip top Guide Placement - In inches from the tip top
1st XTCSNGP3 4.5"
2nd XTCSNGP3 9.75"
3rd XTCSNGP3 15.5"
4th XTCSNGP3 22.75"
5th XTCSNGP4 30.75"
6th XTCSNGP4 39"
7th XTCSNGP4 48"
8th XTCSNGP4 57.5"
9th XTCLXNZG5 67"
10th XTCLXNZG12 78"
11th XTCLXNZG16 94.25
Did anyone else ream out that fore grip by hand? What a ball buster that was! I built the 108-7. I use it on the beach and in the river. Normally, I two hand cast, but I can single hand a 330 grain scandi really well. Also running a 370 grain skagit, that one I can spey cast alright. I'm looking forward to trying it on a lake. It's my first build. Thanks to Ron at All About The Fly for supplies and know-how.
always use my own spacing by loading the rod and static tests. There's nothing wrong with suggested layouts though, if it were such a bad thing, there would be no high end factory rods. because it would be crazy expensive to find guid spacing for each rod individually and who would spend $1000 on a rod that's not well made? It's a nice thing to find a blank's own flex characteristics, and that's something you can only do at the custom level of rod building