Tippets on Spey Lines

Discussion in 'Spey Clave' started by pdavis327, Oct 27, 2011.

  1. pdavis327

    pdavis327 New Member

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    Assembling my line w/ new switch rod for first time. backing>running>head> tip. My question then, is what to attach to the tip. For a floating line, should I have a typical leader length? What about a sinking line? And what should I taper these to be? Thanks much for the help!
     
  2. TallFlyGuy

    TallFlyGuy Adipossessed!

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    For floating line I use an intermediate poly leader or clear floating poly leader 14', then I attach 3 ft of 15lb flouro seaguar. For sinktips I attach 3 to 5 ft of 12lb maxima or 15lb flouro seaguar.... Hope that helps..
     
  3. pdavis327

    pdavis327 New Member

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    Thanks. I am using RIO skandi short versitip package. All tips are 10 feet. The floating tip comes in a straw color, and the intermediate comes in clear. So for the floating line, you recommend only 3 feet of flouro line on the end as a tippet?
     
  4. KerryS

    KerryS Ignored Member

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    I think tfg is suggesting a leader in the 17 foot range including tippet for a floating line. Seems a bit long to me but perhaps he will explain. Some guys use level tippet anywhere from a few feet to 8 or 9 when swinging. I also know some who use braided leaders. Personally I use store bought tapered leaders from 4 to 9 feet in the size needed for the fish I am after and the flies I am using. I usually use flourocarbon tippet with a floater if I want the fly to be in or just below the surface film. Regular mono tippet for floating flies.
     
  5. g_smolt

    g_smolt Recreational User

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    For dryline work I would reccomend using the floating 10' tip that comes with the line, a 10' polyleader, and 3'-5' of level mono.

    Casting a short-head scandi is much easier when using a long (14'+) leader - the leader provides the anchor while the rest of the line is aerialized in the d-loop. Shorter leaders tend to rip out with these systems.

    For sinking tip stuff, I think you will have to experiment and see...I haven't used sinking tips or polyleaders on a scandi line - when I wanna get down, I do it with a skagit setup.
     
  6. pdavis327

    pdavis327 New Member

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    So are the poly leaders and the versitips the same thing? Sorry not quite following. For the 10 foot tips I am using that came with my RIO short versitip package, what would typically be attached to the end of one of those tips? Thanks!
     
  7. Salmo_g

    Salmo_g Active Member

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    I've been using manufactured tapered leaders about 10' long on my floating Spey lines. After a few fly changes, I add 2' of 10# tippet. On sink tip lines I use 3 -4' of Maxima leader material in 8 or 10# test.

    Sg
     
  8. pdavis327

    pdavis327 New Member

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    Ok Great! Thanks g_smolt!
     
  9. pdavis327

    pdavis327 New Member

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    Thanks all, much good help!
     
  10. Panhandle

    Panhandle Active Member

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    I just started using the floating poly this year on my floater and really like them for reasons mentioned.
     
  11. Invermarnoch

    Invermarnoch New Member

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    I embark upon this reply with some diffidence, recognising that you have already received some valuable help from several knowledgeable and experienced anglers. I write perhaps from a slightly different perspective, being a Scotsman used to fishing the Tay, the Spey, the Ness, the Tweed and some of our other larger rivers. I would say that you have to consider several factors. Length of rod, wind, temperature, light, depth, water-colour,and speed of river-flow all come into play, IMVHO. Let me explain. The metabolism of the Atlantic salmon slows down in cold weather. You need to fish your fly or lure well down to attract him. In "brassy" summer sunshine they often lie deep too. The choice of a floating, intermediate, slow-sinking or fast-sinking tip is dictated by visibility and the need to put the fly where the fish will see it. Generally, over here we would consider adding some three to ten feet of leader, such as Maxima, to the tip, which might be five to ten feet long. Trial and error is the correct approach. Allow yourself to be dictated to by the success of yoour casting. Keep practising. It is amazing what happens once muscle memory takes full effect. Tight lines.
     
  12. freestoneangler

    freestoneangler Not to be confused with Freestone

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    Anyone else experienced the situation where you follow advice such as what is given here or in books only to have your guide cut off everything (or damn near everything) you just set-up and re-assemble? I have, and when that happens, I take detailed notes... particularly if the results are positive.

    There seems to be so many permutations to the business end of the spey line...definitely hard on rookies such as myself. That said, the advice from the forum guru's is great and we (I) appreciate it. :thumb:
     
  13. pdavis327

    pdavis327 New Member

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    Second that! Thanks everyone
     
  14. fredaevans

    fredaevans Active Member

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    "+1" here just about across the board. For years I used 12-15 foot leaders and finally one of the best flyrodders I know asked me 'why.' Gave the usual answers ..... Mark just laughed and pulled out a 9' RIO out of his vest and said 'Put this on.' Have to admit, line/fly control improved noticeably in just a few casts. Another of the comments above caught my attention: the use of furled leaders. I'm using them across the board on my 3 to 6wts.

    Gal who calls herself "Furl Girl" makes them in Utah. The weave is tight as a tick (with small tippet ring on the end). Thing that's really interesting is she makes both floaters AND sinking furled leaders. And the sinkers really sink! Better yet, save for the clear floaters she uses Kevlar thread so these things are stronger than hell. Better yet they're half the cost ($6.00) of anyone else's, come in several lengths AND (no one else to my knowledge does this) they almost rod weight specific. (2-4, 4-6, etc).

    These things lay out flat as a pancake in the air; beautiful to see them 'un-roll' at the end of a cast.
    fae
     
  15. TallFlyGuy

    TallFlyGuy Adipossessed!

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    Let me clarify.... I am referring to a skandi "short/compact" type line as he is referring to. Put on the scandi short, then either your tips that came with it (the 10' tips) or put on a poly leader of 10-12ft... NOt both at the same time. I do not think if you put on a 9' leader straight to the end of a skandi short line it would cast worth a crap. That would be like taking a skagit line of 27 ft and hooking 12lb maxima to the end of it. So in the end you have a scandi line, then 12ft poly or tip, and then 3-5 ft of leader.
     
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