Trying Different Chironomid Technique

Discussion in 'Stillwater' started by Mike Wilson, Apr 10, 2009.

  1. Mike Wilson

    Mike Wilson Yakbowbw

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    I have been fishing with chironomids for years but have always used the bobber technique with quite a bit of success. It is for this reason I did not change until today. I always disliked using the long leaders with a bobber, or corkie. I did not even mess with the deep pools where fish sometimes hold. Long leaders make it hard to cast, landing the fish must be done by hand if the leader is too long, it was just a pain. I have listened to people on this forum talk about using full sinking class V or VI line with out a bobber and tried it. I marked the bottom using hemostats on the hook. Counted the number of pulls to the bottom then added 10'. I decided not to anchor and let out what I thought was the right amount of line and just drift. I had to continue to let out a little line until I hit bottom then bring things back up just a bit. It worked out well, as soon as I had the depth right bam, bam bam, just like clock work. I thought it was a better way to get to the fish holding in the deeper pools. I used to ignor the holes deeper than 15" because of the hassles associated with long leaders and corkies... now I have a new interest in using chironomids deep. If you haven't tried this you may want to give it a whirl, I am glad I did. :thumb:
     
  2. Creatch'r

    Creatch'r Heavies...

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    add a small section of t-14 (5 feet?) on there and it becomes easy to fish depths of 30 plus feet. the same technique is also deadly with other flies. careys, micro leeches, rigged with trailing chiros.

    ive also been experimenting with crawling crayfish patterns in this manner.....

    food for thought.
     
  3. Mark Walker

    Mark Walker Active Member

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    Chironmids fish best when moved very slowly(natural movement).
     
  4. Mike Wilson

    Mike Wilson Yakbowbw

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    I actually used a version of a Hale Bop I tie in combo with a black size 18 chironomid. I caught 2 on the leech.
     
  5. Gray Ghost

    Gray Ghost Active Member

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    For deep water indicator fishing try making a quick release sliding indicator:

    Take a Q-tip stem and cut it to the length of your favorite hard foam indicator.
    Take a lighter and melt a small lip on one end of the cut Q-tip stem. This allows you to grab the Q-tip stem when mounted into the indicator to disengage it to make depth adjustments.
    Drill out the indicator to the diameter of the cut Q-tip stem.
    You now have a quick release sliding indicator.

    To install:
    Slide the melted lip end of the Q-tip stem on your leader first towards the fly line.
    Then your drilled out indicator.
    Tye your fly or flies on.

    Adjusting the depth:
    Slide the Q-tip stem and indicator up the leader to the depth you want to fish.
    Put the Q-tip stem and a little bit of folded leader off the end of the Q-tip stem into the indicator, pinching some leader inside the indicator and fixing the indicator from sliding on the leader.

    When a fish is hooked the Q-tip stem is pulled out of the indicator, releasing the pinched leader. The Q-tip stem and indicator slides down the leader to your fly or flies allowing you to land your fish in a easy manner. With this quick release sliding indicator I'll fish leaders as long as 25' and still be able to land my fish easily. Casting that long of leader works best when you have a little bit of wind. Make a short cast and then feed fly line out as the wind pulls your indicator farther out to the desired fishing distance.
     
  6. Connor Parrish

    Connor Parrish Member

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    I also used to only fish chironos with the bobber tecneque. i had done ok but the last few times i started using my sinking line like you said. way more success because i feel it is just way easier to adjust to all different depths of the lake. before i only fished the 10-15 ft areas. and some times when you don't have a fish finder you end up drifting off your ideal depth and then your just wasting your time. using the hemo's with the sinking line is the way to go . IMO
     
  7. obiwankanobi

    obiwankanobi Active Member

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    I agree.

    I talked to a Canadian flyfisherman that uses sections of t-14 with a short leader and attaches this to Amnesia(i.e. no fly line). He swears by this system when fishing deep and it gives him the sensitivity needed to detect subtle strikes.

    I have yet to apply this technique.
     
  8. Mike Wilson

    Mike Wilson Yakbowbw

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    Do you connect the T-14 using a braided loop? Never built a custom sinking line before, maybe it is something I need to do after this experience at Pass.
     
  9. Jacob Peterson

    Jacob Peterson Member

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    I just had an idea. Use the striaght down tecnique when drift fishing using a leech pattern tied on a jig hook, then it eill ride up horizontaly more
     
  10. Steve Birrer

    Steve Birrer Active Member

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    I have fished with the full sinking line method and have had some success. But I started to have a lot more success when I went to a long leader and a slip strike indicator. If the fish are really keyed in at a certain depth then the floating line and indicator keeps the fly at the proper depth for way longer than a full sinking line. Plus with a small split shot above the fly I find that I get to the depth I want to fish much quicker than waiting for the line to sink.
     
  11. scottflycst

    scottflycst Active Member

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    Mike, one can wind drift with that method as well. I 've had that work wonders at times.
     
  12. Mike Wilson

    Mike Wilson Yakbowbw

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    Knowing the importance of depth how do you get the indicator back to the same depth without using your hemostats each time to check where to reset the indicator? I think I am going to mark my sinking line with stripes every 5 feet. One stripe for 5 two stripes for 10 etc.. That way I will be able to count the stripes and mulitpy by 5, and if my math is good know exactly where I was when the fish hit. It feels like I will be able to get back to the zone without remeasuring, or counting the number of pulls from the reel. I still think I will use indicators in the 10' to 15' range as that was really effective for me, but feel this newly discovered technique will allow me mobility and quicker changes from leeching to chironomiding and therefore keep me fishing longer... hopefully translating into more trout to hand.
     
  13. Steve Birrer

    Steve Birrer Active Member

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    Mike

    Really the best way if you are going to be switching between chironomid fishing and stripping leeches is to have two rods rigged. I almost always have two rigged and a buddy usually has three rods ready to go.
     
  14. Mike Wilson

    Mike Wilson Yakbowbw

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    That is what I do. I always have one set up for chironomids, and one for leech's. When I stop leeching it seems like you have to drop anchor, set the depth, mess with the indcatior, mess a little more with the indicator you know the drill. I felt like I just had to switch rods and find the bottom. I did not anchor, but just used my fins to keep me in place. I even drifted with this set up and it worked well. I could just be infatuated with it because it is a new method and seems a little more interesting to me right now. I am considering carrying one set up for dry fly / emeregers too. Too many rods could be a problem. If I have one set up for leech's, one for indicator, one with a full sink, and one for dry fly that would be four rods. Maybe I need to make up my mind.:):)
     
  15. jcalderon

    jcalderon Member

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    Mike, Good on ya for experimenting. I guess you CAN teach an old dog new tricks! :rofl:

    And I agree that if youre in a pontoon or tube, it can be tough using the indicator technique. I noticed that fishing from a driftboat or raft sits you up higher and makes it a little easier and safer to cast those 15'+ leaders.

    I will have to try your sinking line technique. That sounds like a really neat way to fish. Plus it seems that drinking makers all day makes my bobber "bobb" a little more than i'd like it to. :beer2: