Tying Weedless for Bass

Discussion in 'Warm Water Species' started by Randall Clark, Apr 9, 2013.

  1. Stonefish

    Stonefish Triploid, Humpy & Seaplane Hater

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    Nice hooks but for $1.50 to $2.00 per, I'll pass.
    I'd think you could fashion the same thing yourself if you truly needed weedless.
    Get some dropshot or bass fly tying hooks, some wire you use for haywire twists when fishing for toothy critters and and pair of needlenose pliers.
    SF
     
  2. Chad Lewis

    Chad Lewis NEVER wonder what to do with your free time

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    I've certainly thought about that Stonefish. The Gamakatsu's do cost a pretty penny. I don't tie poppers by the dozens, so that kinda' keeps it doable for me. The weed guard is made of some kind of spring steel; lots of flexibility that allows it to snap back to its original shape without bending. I've heard that piano wire would work....?
     
  3. Patrick Gould

    Patrick Gould Active Member

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    Check out the hooks the have a Fred Meyer. I think they're crystal river brand. I'd like to hear how they compare to the high end gamakatsus.

    The thing I like about the wire style guards is that they work as brush/stick guards too. (the trick is getting them set so they don't act as Bass guards like Gene suggests)
     
  4. Stonefish

    Stonefish Triploid, Humpy & Seaplane Hater

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    This is what I mentioned in my last post about making your own weedless guards.
    SF

    [​IMG]
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  5. jersey

    jersey livin' the dream

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    when using the wire as a weed guard, make sure you measure the length to the bend behind the barb. this will allow the guard to have the needed sweep to protect the hook point.

    the guards do work well. hook-ups are only an issue when one becomes overly anxious on the hook set, 'cause it damn hard not to set immediately when the blow-up happens! be a bit patient and the rewards will come.
     
  6. Brad Niemeyer

    Brad Niemeyer Old School Member

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    I find that if I tie a robust/stiff hackle collar near the hook point it serves pretty darn well as a weed guard. I can gingerly pull it out of pads and weeds without snagging. I think old time bass bugs were tied this way to get a degree of weedless-ness. Its soft enough to get a good hookset during the chomp, yet shields the point just enough through the weeds.
     
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  7. Randall Clark

    Randall Clark Active Member

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    Thanks for all of the tips. I got the one's like what Patrick found at Fred Meyer. Those should work really good for the pond I'm basically tying for.
     
  8. PLee

    PLee New Member

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    I tried to post here once but do t see it. I'll try again.

    I'm new to fly fishing and do not yet tie my own flies. I fish the lilly pads for bluegill and other sunfish. I need to go weedless. Is there a way to do that using store bought flies?
     
  9. Walter Spaulding

    Walter Spaulding Member

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    Check out Cecil Guidry's Hell Boy !
     
  10. Icanfly

    Icanfly aka Matt

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    I'll have to pick your brains for fishing topwater bass in Western WA. Had some luck two summers ago but struck out last summer. Down in AZ I used to use Dahlberg divers and frog type patters up top, along with damsel/dragon nymphs and copper johns either as droppers or by themselves subsurface. I get the feeling that floating minnow patterns and smaller poppers are more in order here? Leeches and minnow patterns subsurface? As far as weed guards go I usually do a single or double 20lb mono loop. I'd agree with what others have said though, they do tend to push off the one side and don't always work all that well.
     
  11. bakerite

    bakerite Active Member

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    Here's a blast from the past......do you remember keel hooks? I still have a few and they work pretty well.