Discussion in 'Watercraft' started by pastorbrian, Dec 22, 2010.
I too can provide storage in the Methow Valley pretty cheap! Rick
Where did you find them?
Hello folks, Just joined this site and conversation after doing a web search for Watermaster anchors and wanted to give this topic a bump. I am delighted to see that others are thinking outside the box to make an already great product even better. Love the full frame concept and hope you post up more pic's of your experiments. For the time being I'm trying to duplicate the stock WM anchor with parts I've bought online and local Seattle sources. Curious what other folks think of the standard issue WM system.
The the standard issue WM anchor system works nicely with the anchor load at center-stern. The anchor mount takes just a couple of minutes to set up, is secure, isn't too heavy, and it all packs well into the carry bag. The rode redirect arm from center-stern to the side (port for me, my right hand is my rod hand) is an important feature and works well. But the system should be a little more refined for the amount charged.
The stanchion tubing ends *do not have the plastic caps as shown in the picture below and* are exposed so I bought rubber crutch feet and wrapped the redirect arm baseplate with Gorilla tape to protect the stern boat tube. An Allen bolt has replaced the big plastic knob to assemble/disassemble the mount and a thumbscrew holds the redirect pully to the arm; all loose. I drilled the thumbscrew and fashioned an attachment ring on the allen wrench so that I can tie all the loose individual pieces together and clip them into one of the cargo net D rings while the mount is assembled and in use.
I am trying a swivel pulley on the closest footstrap D-ring to redirect back to the cleat on the seat for better rope management as pictured in the photo of the optional floor but not included in the system. When weighing anchor I don't pull against the D ring pulley but lift from the inbound rope then take up the slack through the front D ring pulley and secure with the jam cleat.
As I mentioned earlier I am careful where I will drop anchor in moving water; now taking the advice of someone in the WFF community who wisely suggests that be only where one can safely stand up. I also keep a sheathed river knife on my PFD thats sole purpose is to quickly cut the anchor rope in an emergency.
*The WM tallback seat upgrade(?) OEM'd by Surf To Summit didn't have the storage bag on the back that the WFF demo standard seat has so* I bought a Surf To Summit Seat Fishing pack which has rod holders that won't hold fly rods so I use them to stow my Measure Net and wading staff; a collapsable Black Diamond Trail Pole.
I am not a big fan of the vertically oriented Rod Holder from WM. On my last trip I also found my Scotty rod holder gets in the way and is a line snagger when I stop and stand up to cast. The Water Strider rod holder looks like a much better solution. I have ordered one and may get two if they can be oriented backwards to safely stow a second rod
bought a watermaster 8 years ago. I don't mean to cause waves but what a joke! 29 dollar oars retail price? 19 dollar oarlocks? on a 1300 dollar watercraft? For that kind of money, you should not have to upgrade anything! The anchor mount is a engineering nightmere! A 3rd grader could of designed something better! The portability card is WAY overplayed on that website. For those of you who want to put a frame on there watermaster go to FASTUBE.COM. Put a rowing frame on mine for about 45 dollars. Anybody interested in buying one for 750$ plus rowing frame let me know at [email protected].
Very informative post (not to mention all the photos!). I really appreciate you taking the time to share this inforamtion. This will definitely be a big help in my quest to customize my Outlaw Assault.
Have been meaning to do this for some time. If the photos attach you will see my modifications. The most important to me as (primarily) a stillwater fisherman is the anchor system. I take a short section of treated 2X4 and contour it to the curvature of the boat. I angle it to my strong hand so that I have a more direct pull. I attach the wood by covering it with Material and flaring it out where it attaches to the raft. I but a boot over the flare to make it look nice and add strength. I then screw on an anchor release such as you use on drift boats. Clean, compact, strong and effective.
I also modified the oars with larger blades. The backrest is from REI and was designed for paddle boats. I also added a velcro strap angled in such a way I can both strap in a second rod that lays along my side or to hold a rod laying across the apron while moving locations (real trolling although I try not to do that much at all).
Hope the photos come through. If not perhaps one of you can walk me through the process. Thanks. W
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Also shows a modification so that the pump stays compact. W
NZ - love that anchor solution for the WM! You obviously have some skill with the materials and adhesives needed to realize your ideas.
Can you pack up the boat for storage and transport with the anchor mount?
The foot pump I got with mine has the cord to keep the pump compressed.
And yeah, someday I'll hunt down some 3 piece 7' oars for my Kodiak
The anchor mount is actually much smaller than it looks in the photo. You just deflate the boat and roll it up as usual. Fits a little tighter but still fits fine in the factory bag. If you live anywhere close to Bellevue shoot me a PM if you wish and if we can find time I can help you make one. All you need is a copeing saw, wood rasp, sandpaper and patience. Well, also anchor release, material and glue. Won't be quite as neat as the one in the photo as I had carved the wood and covered it with material but took it to the Waterstrider factory in NZ when I bought new boats and had them install them while we had lunch. Have done 3 or 4 of my own though and they hold up just fine and look pretty good. Just not quite as professional. W