I have a Renzetti traveler that I use for home tying. Although I am not more than an intermediate tyer, the rotary makes great body shapes. Once I get the materials tagged in, I throw a few whip finishes in the head area, use the bobbin holder to keep the line out parallel with the shank, then spin the body. I find it much easier to control tapers and ribs. Be careful if you have tinsel or other ribbing material hanging off the back as it can get wound around the rotary shank and break off.
If I might get in line with HappyHooker on this topic.
I have a traveller cam vise that I generally like quite a bit. The one thing that bugs me (pun noted) is that the stem is fairly short and that makes spinning dubbing onto the thread difficult.
There is only a short bit of thread available between the bobbin and hook when the bobbin is sitting on the table. My first $20 made in India was much easier to dub on. Too bad it only lasted a couple of months.
Hey, wait a minute! This is my first post on WFF! Time for a little celebration :beer1:
I tye on a Master but, threw away that piece of s*it bobbin rest. Take a stem off of the India vise and thread the top for a small screw. Using a Water tap washer ; make yourself a new bobbin rest that you can put approx. 14" away from your vise. I use a Asauble speed crank with my Renzetti and am able to spin it fast enough (2.5:1 ratio) to spin on dubbing.
I agree that you should maybe get a video on Rotary tying to really appreciate all you can do with your new vise. I'll never go "back" now that I'm hooked on Rotarys. I also love my Griffin Odessy Cam Vise and that has become my travel vise.
I believe that Al Beatty produces a good video on Rotary Tying as does Lefty Kreh. Al Has a website called BT's , I believe. PM me if you need more info.
The India vise is 8 hours away in Southern Oregon until I finish this relocation project. I know that Renzetti has some extension stems available, but they sure don't give them away for free!
I'll probably just order the longest one they make from the fly shop where I have been hanging out, and give that a try. I was hoping that I was just missing a simple solution to this problem.
A vise that makes it hard to dub with standard bobbins just seems wrong. I mean, dubbing is a pretty basic tying operation. Especially a rotary vise that is supposed to boost productivity. Hard to be productive when you can only dub on a inch or so of fur at a time.
I am planning to head down to the Eugene tying expo at the end of the month. I'll ask the tyers there how they deal with it and report back on my findings.
I can understand how not having a long enough stem would make it difficult at times, but I can't see that causing a problem with dubbing, unless you're trying to make a dubbing loop which requires a good length of loop to freely spin under the hook. But when it comes to dubbing in a long amount of body material onto the thread the bobbin isn't perpendicular to the hook. I hold the bobbin towards me at maybe a 45 deg angle, that way I'm able to make it as long as I want, then as I rotate the hook I just hold it at that angle.
Anyways, I'm not sure if this is what you're having trouble with, but maybe it will help.
By the way, welcome to the boards, it's good to have you!
Now that I think about it, if I was to dub material onto my thread with the bobbin hanging below the hook I wouldn't have but maybe 5" or 6" of thread to work with, and when tying big chunky stoneflies I like to dub on more at a time than that. So that's why I will pull the bobbin towards me, keeping tension on the thread obviously, giving myself another 3" to work with.
The technique that I learned for applying dubbing to the tying thread is to spin the thread bobbin in a clockwise direction while it is hanging from the hook by the thread. As the thread spins, dubbing is fed onto it. If necessary, the dubbing can be rolled between thumb and forefinger for tighter bodies, still with the bobbin spinning away.
With a short stem on the vise there is very little thread exposed between the tip of the bobbin and the hook before the bobbin comes to rest on the vise base or the table. Once the bobbin is on the table there is no spinning bobbin to work with.
A dubbing loop is no problem. Because, exactly as you state, the loop can be pulled back at an angle and then spun up with a shepards crook (or other) while still angled up from the table top.
PS: Thanks for the welcome. Good to find an active and fairly civil board.
Kudo's to the Griffin Cam vice also, it came w a two part post so you can tie 6 or 12 inches from the base, thus lending itself to the fly you are tying at the time, the only addition to that vise was a cast base so that clamping isn't an issue, HIGHLY reccomend this vice to the guys looking to move up to a $100 piece of equipment they won't outgrow
That technique works pretty well as long as you have material that's soft as the inertia generated by a spinning bobbin (at least the one's I have used) makes it tough to dub coarse materials (seal, pseudo seal, deer, etc.). Now, with a Nor-Vise, the inertia is greater and the material you can spin onto the thread can be really coarse, even steel wool (no joke!). Goto www.norvise.com and see what I mean. There's some down-loadable video clips that may even give you some ideas for tying rotary with other vises.
I know the Traveler doesn't spin, but that site may help and give you some ideas.
I saw the nor vise at the fly show with the master himself, he makes it look so easy, just like the skaters in the olmpics, guess once it is mastered one might grow accustomed to it. I'll have one either before Christmas or at least it's on my list. LOL