Wooden boat repair question

Discussion in 'Watercraft' started by Tracy Lauricella, Aug 25, 2012.

  1. Tracy Lauricella

    Tracy Lauricella Active Member

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    I installed 3" wide douglas fir boards on top of the 1/4 ply floors today. I hit them with a coat of red mahogany stain. Tomorrow I'll put a coat of spar varnish over that.

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  2. Tracy Lauricella

    Tracy Lauricella Active Member

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    More progress.

    I have the new floor in place. The boards are screwed down to the plywood, but only the very front section is actually attached to the boat.

    Unfortunately, with the thicker floor, my cooler/fish box doesn't fit under the rower seat anymore. (It needed repair/replacing anyway, so not too worried there.) The bigger issue is the front seat/storage box sits up about 3/4" too high now, so I'll likely have to trim it down.

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    I'm toying with moving the rower seat a little bit forward, and if I do, I'll have to move the oarlocks forward as well. It looks like the previous owner had them mounted in that more forward position once, I'm not sure why they were moved back. As it is now, the oarlocks are about 7" behind centerline, and the forward position appears to have been right at the centerline.
     
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  3. Tracy Lauricella

    Tracy Lauricella Active Member

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    Well... I thought I was done.

    We took the boat out today to do some fishing on a local lake. After being out a short while, we noticed a spot where water was weeping through the hull.

    It turns out there was dry rot, partially hidden behind the side bumpers, going all the way down between the chines.

    Here's the spot from the outside. Notice the several spots where it looks like earlier repairs were done.
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    The wood here is soft.
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    Really soft.
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    About 30 seconds later, I discover the rot goes all the way down between the chine guards:
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    From the inside. The rot goes up behind the side bumper as well.
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    I'm not sure how to approach this repair.
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    Any suggestions?

    --Tracy
     
  4. Tracy Lauricella

    Tracy Lauricella Active Member

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    I'm thinking at this point the approach to take will be to cut the hole rectangular, making sure to clean out any rotted areas (including down in between the chine guards.) then let it thoroughly dry. Next step will be to cut a patch that matches the size of the cut hole and fits in tight like a plug. I'll put a block of 1/4" ply over this from the inside so that it has plenty of support & surface area to adhere to the hull. Everything will be epoxied in place, first wetting out the surfaces with straight epoxy, then filleted with thickened epoxy while it is still wet.

    I believe this will hold well and be water tight and look decent from the outside. The inside will have the 1/4" ply block visible, but its in an unobtrusive location, so I think it'll probably be ok.

    Replacing the rub rails/side bumpers is another matter entirely. I'll need to do more research there. Looks like 1/4" boards that have been carefully bent to shape.
     
  5. Tracy Lauricella

    Tracy Lauricella Active Member

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    Ok, I have patched the hole.

    [​IMG]
    I cut the rot out, then made the hole rectangular. The patch is made of 3/8" plywood. It extends about an inch down between the chine guards (had to hammer it in place) and it has thickened epoxy on all sides, including between the chine guards.

    A larger backing block made from 1/4" wood is inside the boat, and this patch is currently screwed to it. After everything cures, I will remove the screws and fill the holes with epoxy. Some sanding and refinishing will certainly be in order as well.

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    Inside the boat, you can see the larger patch block. This is made of 1/4" wood, and extends beyond the original hole. It serves as a backing block for the patch. It is epoxied in place. I'm using a truck bed cargo bar to hold it in place while it cures.

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    Closer view of the block.

    I'm still looking for a source for wood to replace the side bumper. It's 1/4"x5"x10', and looks to be maple. (it's not ply) The guy at Grey Lumber told me I'm probably out of luck, unless I want to buy a 1" thick piece and plane it down.

    Anyone know of a good source for this? I suppose I could go with a plastic bumper if wood isn't available in that size.
     
  6. Tracy Lauricella

    Tracy Lauricella Active Member

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    Any ideas? I missed my window to finish this before the rain hits, but I can cut and prep the side bumper if I can track down the wood.

    Looking for a piece of 1/4" board (not ply) 10' long and at least 5" wide. Where does one find lumber in this size?
     
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  7. Patrick Gould

    Patrick Gould Active Member

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    The repair looks perfect. Nice job.
     
  8. Patrick Gould

    Patrick Gould Active Member

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    I would go for 1088 grade 6mm ply for the side board (sponson). If you have to have solid I would just take a piece of 5" wide hardwood and rip it to thickness on the table saw. Make one 2 1/2" cut and then turn it over and make another.
     
  9. Tracy Lauricella

    Tracy Lauricella Active Member

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    Do you know where I can get 10' ply? Everywhere I've looked it comes in a max length of 8'.
    I was thinking that board would be better than ply, since the purpose of the bumper/rub rail is to handle being bumped into things (probably the trailer, most often)

    (apologies if the answers here should be obvious. I've done a lot more metalwork than woodwork.)
     
  10. Patrick Gould

    Patrick Gould Active Member

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    I was just thinking that 1/4 hardwood might want to crack and check. It might be fine since it essentially laminated to the side of the boat.

    10 6mm ply can be had from Edensaw Woods. It's not cheap though.