Originally Posted by Randy Diefert
mustad 9674 size 6
black goose biots
white unwaxed thread (8/0)
floating fly line
white phentax (sp?) wool
.020 lead wire
clear med. Liquid Lace
orange/light brown swiss straw
tan ostrich herl (med-small fibers)
clear "Pearl" beads for eyes
Pantone #121T (yellow/mustard)
Pantone#154 (brownish /coffee color)
Pantone #804T (orange/creamsicle color)
Pantone #202T (opaque Red)
Min Wax head cement
Hard as Nails nail polish
start by making a small "ball" with the thread right above the barb of the hook.
strip 2 goose biots (matched pair) from feather stem and with the natural curl face outward tie in at the ball to form a split tail. The ball will help you keep the quills separate.
Aprox 1/4" forward of your "ball" tie in a 1/2" piece of fly line on the side of the hook shank. I find it easier if you taper the ends into the hook shank.
repeat above on back side of hook shank.be sure that the line is sucured tightly to hook shank.
take a 4" piece of Phentax wool and tie that in on top of the hook at the leading end of the fly line. twist it tightly to form a rope. lay it between the flyline on top of the hook and as you pull it tightly towards the hook bend tie it in.when you get to past the flyline half hitch your thread.
now flatten your wool to create a compact flat material that you can wrap forward to the other end of the flyline.Make another 1/2 hitch to hold what you have. Now, twist the wool to form a tightly wound rope and pull it towards the tail ,over where you previously tied the flyline. be sure that it is running paralel with the hook shank.tie it in; go over the rear between the biots and whre you started wrapping the wool. come up the other side in the same manner tying the whole thing off 3/4" behind the hook eye. What you should have now is an "almond shaped" body. you want to press down on the top and bottom to create a flatter profile. use your tying thread to tighten up the whole works and continue the shaping process.
now, starting at the front end take 2 pieces of lead wire aprox. 4" long and fold them in half insert your tying thraed in the loop end and wrap one side in at a time on each lateral line. * be sure the weight is equal on both sides by tying the same amount in. keep that almond shape to the body.
tie in your oil filled Liquid Lace in on top starting at the point where the wool starts.Begin by starting with 4 securing wraps overlapping each other to trap the oil inside of the Liquid Lace . pull gently on the Lace towards the biots/tail section while sparsely wrapping with the thread to hold the lace in place on the top of your hook. When you get to where the biots start take 4 firm overlapping wraps on the Liquid Lace to secure and lock the oil in.Use a 1/2 hitch to secure thread. what you should have at this point looking from the side is; a flat beely, and a rounded top with a rib that divdes the top of the back of the fly. Looking down on the back from overhead, it looks like an almond.
Now comes the artistic part to building this fly. Turn fly upside color complete underside of wool/fly with mustard color pentone pen. Take the brown #154 pen and make a series of flecked marks on uderside.
Turn fly over to view the top. Color entire top of fly with mustard 121T pen but do not color Lace.
Take orage #804T pen and create an edge over the lead on the sides of the fly. Take The Opaque Red pen and color the top of the Liquid lace that is tied on top of the fly, making a vein. Finnally , color your lead strips with the black penbeing sure to blend this in with the black biots on the tail. looking at this from the side you'll see a "yellow belly, black lateral line ;and red top.
coat entire wool portion with "hard as nails" nail polish and let stand for 15-20 minutes while you start another one.
Once dry; starting at the back of the hook pull Liquid Lace tight and begin wrapping towards the front,keeping wraps touching each other. This will form what looks like a bee's butt gradually getting fatter as you go forward.Once you get on top of the wool you can begin to let off your tension on the Liquid Lace ond it will return to it's round form wile continuing to wrap forward. You should see your underlayment start to get brighter and come "alive". when you get to the end of the wool section aprox. 3/4"-1" behind hookeye. Tie off the lace with 4 good tight wraps over the lace and at least 2 half hitches to trap the pressurized oil.
take 2 pieces of pumkin colored swiss straw aprox 1 1"and fold in half.Useing a #2 Nymph wing burner make the wing cases (2). Install 1 wing case over back,centering on the red topline of fly. Color wing case edges and lateral line with brown marker pen.
Coat wing case with hard as nails polish. *be careful as not to get nail polish on liquid lace.allow to dry.
wrap in 2 equal parts of 4-5 barbs of a pheasant tail feather. mount so legs are "down and back". wrap in a barb from an ostrich herl ; go over legs to hide thread and hold legs tegether and faceing the rear of the fly.
install the bead eyes behind the hook eye. I like the look you get when you heat the glass beads with a candle ond lightly press you finger to them to create a headlamp/ buggie effect but do this before installing them.
tie in second wing case over herl and tie off behind eyes. Trim excess material. color as you did before. coat with "hard as nails" color any white threads that are showing with the brown pen and color eyes with brown pen ( they should look translucent under the light).
Coat all tied off threads with the min wax. if you have any gapps in your Liquid Lace you can take the min wax and use it as a sealer between the wraps since it is a water based head cement and will not damage the Liquid Lace tubing.
The beauty of this fly is that it's pretty much a one of a kind fly because it is hand colored and the chances of 2 people tying the exact pattern is difficult.If you turn the fly upside down the stomach really looks like this bug ate something.
i learned this pattern from Ed Smith owner of Liquid Lace in Kamloops B.C. and it was tied for me by an Expert tyer by the nam e of Herman Fischer who created this pattern after the Adams River Stone Flys.
I have yet to try it in Washington Rivers but, would imagine that it would be a killer in the Yakima with a slight color variation.
Hope that you enjoy it.