Gentlemen, thank you for your comments. This is the first fly swap I've ever joined. I will tell you it looks harder than to tie that it actually is. I whipped out all the dubbing brushes one evening watching TV. I tied in the goat hair wing Ed Haas style, i.e. I tied it in backwards with the tips of the hair pointing forward, in front of the hook eye. The butt ends of the hair are about even with the end of the eye's return loop. Tie in the dubbing brush at the rear and make about four wraps. The nice thing about the dubbing brush is I don't have to make 4 small dubbing loops over the course of the fly. I clipped a small bunch of fibers of an ostrich feather and tied them in around the bottom half of the hook shank. Dave McNeese did this years ago with some of his spey patterns, tying in small clumps every so often as he built the body instead of palmering a feather up the shank. Tie the butts down and take another four turns of the dubbing brush. Repeat tying in the ostrich and adding turns of the dubbing brush two or three more times. Tie off the dubbing brush. You should be just about where the goat wing was tied in. Tie in the guinea, take 2 to 4 wraps and tie off. Now fold the goat hair back. Take a few thread wraps over the goat hair to keep it laid back or start building up a head right in front of the goat hair. As the thread base increases, it will push the goat hair back. When pleased with where the wing is, tie in the jungle cock. Trim waste, whip finish, and cement. Done! The weight of the hook bend should keep the fly bend side down while fishing, the hair wing should keep the front end up, and the ostrich fibers should point down and back, undulating up and down with the currents and stripping of the line. I hope all the fly swappers enjoy! As a bonus, you determine how shaggy the body is. Pull out some to create a slimmer body and reuse the picked off hair in your next fly.
Davy, if you don't have one, I'll send you a couple when I'm off for spring break in April. Just leave me a PM.