Stillhead and stillnook Hooks, and flies!

Drifter

Active Member
Mr Newman, I looked up the Daiichi 60% and 90% bend jig hooks - to bad the 60 degree only goes as small as 2/0 and the 90% looks the same shank length as the new Mustads I ordered - Mustads are a 90% bend listed as "strong" and "black nickle" which matches the black and red pattern I tie with it's back nickle color and it seems hooks in black nickle are stronger but I could be wrong!
 

Irafly

Indi Ira
WFF Supporter
Drifter, your worry that the hooks would foul up using Freestones method is not unfounded. The solution is to make sure that you tie you tag end short. I played around with this idea for awhile but eventually went back to the straight pin.
 

Chucker

Chucking a dead parrot on a piece of string!
The old Eagle claw patterns 413 and 410 are heavy wire, short shank 60 degree hooks. They make them in a #4, which has an overall length of 1" bend to eye. Not your ultra sharp modern hook, but they will hold big fish, you just need to be good with a hook file!

These would probably work better, similar specs, down to a #6. "The fly shop TFS 5444"

https://catalog.theflyshop.com/prod...=7568&osCsid=89es0loghg416jgu8f4ihtlkm24sp6hq
 

cmann886

Active Member
I have experimented with using Allen Carp hooks and tying them on to a piece of tubing with the eye of the hook pointing up about 45 degrees and then tying the bloody mary type fly on the tube. I use super glue to keep the tube and hook from rotating and the thread from unraveling. If I can get my camera repaired I'll try to upload a photo. I am confident in the hook not bending---but not so confident in my fly tying scheme.
 

cmann886

Active Member
I still can't get my camera to work but the most slender clear tubes seem to work very well instead of using a needle. I also just tilt the hook up slightly when tying it on to the tube instead of bending the shank. It gives an almost natural wide spot for the thorax. The tube needles and holder were only $5 on line. The tubing is also cheap and flexible. I also tried Q-tip tubes but they are to large in diameter for this application.
 

Drifter

Active Member
CMAN, I'm very interested in what you are doing! Hope you get that camera going so I can see what you are trying to explain! ;-)~
 

cmann886

Active Member
The small tube is the inner liner for the metal tubes and is a very small diamter and is extremely easy to cut to the desired length. The eyes need to be more forward than they are shown here to optimize the horizontal ballance. The top fly is tied using a Q-tip tube and is fatter than I like but you can get them for less than a penny each at the dollar store.
 

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Drifter

Active Member
I really like that top fly and yes the eyes could go out further in front for balance. So the tube is just tied to the back of the hook not threaded into the tube correct? If it is tied to the back of the hook I think it would only last through one fish fight and get torn to bits---maybe? it sure looks like a good solution - how strong do you think the pattern is while in the mouth of 20 pound mad fish?
 

cmann886

Active Member
I really like that top fly and yes the eyes could go out further in front for balance. So the tube is just tied to the back of the hook not threaded into the tube correct? If it is tied to the back of the hook I think it would only last through one fish fight and get torn to bits---maybe? it sure looks like a good solution - how strong do you think the pattern is while in the mouth of 20 pound mad fish?

You are correct that the tube is just tied to the back of the hook. My guess is that unless one re-enforces the thread with super glue that it would be destroyed after a single fish. One could consider using the copper or aluminum tubes and would probably get a more durable fly. I'll have to play with it some more and see.
 

Derek Dahms

Member
Just come up with some roe that won't fly off the hook when your casting your fly rod
Ha ha ! Flies look awesome as always !
 

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