..... clouser query.....

hey flytiers,

What hooks do you prefer for clousers in the salt and why?

Currently, i use Tiemco 9394 streamer hooks 4x long for #10 clousers. They're very sharp but i find them too brittle - i've had big coho snap the shank in half.

Anyone have a fast effective way for attaching eyes that don't move. I use epoxy but it's time consuming and i get it everywhere. Anyone had success with superglue?

I like the tail of the clousers to extend well past the bend of the hook but this often causes the tail to curl irritatingly inside the gape when casting. I've thought about a tandem setup with only the shank on the front hook. This would avoid the 'curl' and the rear hook would eliminate short takes. But this might be a complicated solution to a simple problem.



Rob Blomquist

Formerly Tight Loops
Clousers are normally tied with a standard length shank hook, not 4xl. But the pattern is open, so tie it as you wish. But I use Mustad 3407 or 34007, Owner 5370, Tiemco 811S, and Trey Combs Big Game hooks on my clousers. When it comes down to it, I really like the shape of the Tiemco and Mustads to make a nice clouser. The Owners and Trey Combs hooks are very strong sharp hooks and work well, but I typically leave those for Deceivers.

The next step is that I use monofilament thread on my clousers, and I either use zap-a-gap or epoxy on the dumbells. I am not sure what you mean by tail, but in the original pattern the tail is tied down from the eye of the hook, over the dumbell, and down to the hook bend. You should not have a problem with it fouling that way. I have not had any problem with the wing fouling either, but I keep that shorter than the tail.
If you used a 4x long and did not wrap the tail all the way back to the bend it would foul very easy. Use a standard hook and wrap the tail coming off the top of the shank in the traditional clouser style (like TightLoops explained) and it will not foul.

Long hooks with even longer wings or tails make for a lot of fouls. You might be better off with a stinger if you want to get all those fin nippers.
Another tip for a clouser is to make sure you tie the dumbell in well back from the hook eye, so you have plenty of room to tie the wing down flat. And yes the "tail" (I think of it more as the underwing) should be tied down all the way back to the hook bend. those two things should help eliminate fouling. If I want a littel fuller profile, or I'm tying a REALLY sparse clouser, I'll only tie the underwing half way back to the bend, and I rarely have trouble with fouling. I've seen clousers tied without any wraps aft of the eyes (beyond the tie in directly behind the eyes of course), and I've tied a few like that myself to imitate large herring. It's a nice effect, but you do have to live with the fouling. I always use mono thread as well, but I can't keep the eyes from rolling even when I do try to glue them down. I do almost always tie the mid and overwings down both fore and aft of the eyes, then coat the whole head in softex. I'm trying to imitate candlefish so I want the fly as slim as possible; tying the wing down directly behind the eye keeps the fly slim, makes it very durable, and seems to help with rolling eyes and hook fouling. The softex makes the fly hurt less when it hits me in the head.

I use standard length mustad saltwater hooks (I have no idea which number) in the nickle finish (stainless is too expensive and I don't want to leave one in a fish). I've never had one break, and like the bend. For coho, pinks, and rockfish, I tie 90% of my cousers on #2s, with a few #4s and 1/0s for good measure.

Rob Blomquist

Formerly Tight Loops
Actually, Ray if you want to have something wider for herring, an excellent pattern is Surf Candy, and its very easy to tie, and can be manipulated to look either real skinny, or tall or how ever you want.

Here's a good site for the pattern: http://www.aswf.org/saltwater_flies_for_web/bob_popovics/saltwater_flies_bob_surfca.html

I have just started messing around with this pattern, and am working on maniuplating the wing to look like I want. It is most easily epoxied witout a wheel, by using 5 minute epoxy and paying attention to it according to what Bob says. More info on this pattern is on a video called Pop Fleyes. The book is also excellent, but pricier than I care to spend right now.

hey nic try zap gap, its a really fast drying super glue, its what I use for cement on all my salt water flies unless epoxy heads, you can get it at craft shops or really good fly shops. personally I think all fly hooks suck and are way to brittle, kind of like nailguns.

zap gap and mono thread, tight loops knows whats up, didnt see you wrote that

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