Reference Technique of the day

weiliwen

Active Member
#16
Funny story. I used to have a 7'10" no-name medium-action 4 weight that was my favorite rod, and got used 90% of the time. One day, I was casting some monstrosity of a cone head fox-tailed streamer across a deep pool, and my fishing buddy, who's about the best fly fisherman I've ever come across, complimented me on my double-haul, surprised that my wimpy little rod could toss that streamer 60 feet. I hadn't realized that what I was doing was a double-haul until he told me.

I find it to be an enormously useful cast, even on the small streams I fish in the Driftless area. Casting up or downstream 40 feet or more is an advantage when the fish are spooky.
 
#17
Dapping for trout can be an exciting fly fishing method for catching trout. ... Dapping is a fly fishing method in which you simply dangle the fly along or just above the surface of the water, trying to entice a strike.

 

Swimmy

Riffle > Run > Pool
#20
Might be a fashion no-no, but I don't like having a hood or buff up all day, so I have worn both so I can switch it up.
Switching up is completely acceptable. Both at the same time gets you laughed at.

I learned this lesson the hard way.
 
#21
Dropper: A practice of fishing two flies at the same time, often one on the surface and a second underwater. A classic combo like the 'Hopper-Dropper' features a dry fly grasshopper pattern with a small nymph or emerger pattern tied off the bend of the hook. A dropper effectively doubles your chances of finding which type of insect and imitation fly the fish are keying on.

Here's a quick and easy way to add one:

 
#22
Stance: The foot of the casting side should be back at roughly a 45-degree angle from the lead foot and about shoulder width apart. Right handed: right foot back. Left handed: left foot back. This stance allows your body to twist back and forth with the cast easily. If you stand with your feet parallel to each other, you constrict the body's ability to move and limit your casting accuracy and distance.


Elbow Control: The idea in the overhead and roll cast is to obtain a tight, wind-cutting loop that will roll line accurately to the target. To achieve a tight loop, maintain your elbow on a constant level as you move the rod from the pickup, to the back cast, to the forward stroke. Holding the elbow "on the shelf" is much easier done when the feet are placed as described in the Stance. When your upper body can pivot with little constriction as you move the rod back and forth, the elbow will almost automatically stay in a constant plane.
 
#23
Forward (or Power) Stroke: In fly fishing, casting is a back-and-forth motion of the rod and line that allows you to place your fly where you'd like. The forward cast (or stroke) is when your rod and line are cast in front of you, toward your target. Imagine a clock on the wall to your right (casting instructions are the same for right or left-handed casters). Keeping the forearm, wrist, upper arm and shoulder in the same plane as the back cast, drive the whole arm forward, loading the rod. Continue the forward (power) stroke until the rod reaches the ten o'clock position. Then let the rod tip drift down slightly and let go of the line with your non-casting hand, shooting the line toward your target.
 
#24
How Far From the Rise Ring? When casting to a rising fish, don’t target the rise rings. Put your fly at least 3-4 feet in front of where you saw the fish last rise, remembering to give yourself time to throw an upstream mend into the line if needed. Difficult currents that quickly create drag may require you to throw close to the fish, however, so that the fish sees the fly before it begins to look unnatural.
 
#25
Sharing the Water On-the-water manners are simply summarized: if in doubt, err on the side of etiquette, and learn the local customs. Though on most trout streams anglers fish upstream, some rivers are best fished downstream. And while 25 yards may be acceptable separation on a spring creek, 100 yards may be the bare minimum on many major rivers. Fish density, the size of the water, and custom all play a part in determining what is acceptable. It pays to be patient and polite and be sure you are not moving into water that another angler is planning to fish.
 
#26
Going Downstream Although classic presentations are typically made upstream to trout, sometimes complicated currents can make good presentations with upstream casts impossible. In those cases, try getting well above the fish and making an S-cast with plenty of slack directly downstream. If done right, your line will straighten (but not your leader) just before the fly reaches the target.
 
#28
Practice for Big Fish

If you plan on fighting big fish, first learn how much pressure you can put on a fish by tying your tippet to a fence post or other stationary object, reeling the line tight, palming the spool, and pulling as hard as you can without breaking the tippet. Practice keeping your rod at a 45-degree or lesser angle to the fish to ensure that you do not break the rod and that you are pulling with the bend in the butt of the rod and not the tip.
 
#29
Check Your Bait Especially when casting often or in strong winds, examine your tippet and fly every four or five casts. Wind-knots (overhand knots) weaken your tippet by at least 50 percent, and tippets can get tangled in your fly or even knotted around the hook bend — things you won’t notice on a fly that is 40 feet away. Also check the action of the fly on the surface or in the water next to you; trout flies that don’t float well or straight and saltwater flies that “foul” (have materials wrapped around the hook bend) often prevent fish from eating a well-chosen fly.