11' switch rod guide placement

#1
Just bought the Angler's Roost IM-6, 11 foot, 3/4-weight switch blank. Can't find a proper guide placement chart for this rod. It's a 3-piece. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
#3
Many rod makers, including me, use the Dale Clemens formula available on the web site Bajema posted. The web site also has a calculator by Wayne Cattanach, the guy who taught me rod making, that does basically the same thing with different parameters. Of the two, I find the Clemens formula easier to understand.

Use this as a starting point by taping the guides on. Run a fly line through the guides, bend the rod, and check to make sure there aren't any big (or small) gaps between the line and the rod. If there are, adjust the guide placement or consider adding an additional guide and recalculating. This process takes the taper and bending profile of the rod into account. It's especially important to do this on a long rod like yours.

Once you have the guides positioned the way you want them, go out in the yard and make a few casts to make sure the line flows properly. If it does, and the rod casts well, it will motivate you to get the rod finished!

Hope this helps.

Tom
 
#4
The above are good suggestions, but wouldn't be easier to give Angler's Roost a call and ask them if they have a spacing chart or suggestions for their blank?
Tight lines,
Keith
 

Lue Taylor

Lue Taylor/dbfly
#5
Here is Sage 11ft switch chart
MODEL 3110-4 ONE GUIDE SPACING CHART
NUMBER OF PIECES4
LINE WEIGHT3
ROD LENGTH11'0"
GUIDE SIZE SPACING
1 1 4-1/2
2 1 9
3 1 14-3/4
4 1 21-7/16
5 1 29-5/8
6 1 37-3/4
7 2 47
8 3 57-3/4
9 4 69-5/16
10 5 81-3/4
11 12J 97-3/4
 

jwg

Active Member
#6
I concur with Tom that guide spacing charts are a starting point, but actual placement needs to be customized to the action of the particular blank.

As I was taught it, you bend the rod by pulling down on the tip with a separate line attached to the tip top, not using the line strung through the guides as the means to put a curve in the blank.

Then, pulling tension on the strung line, look for how it follows the rods curve, and as Tom said, for large or too small gaps between the strung line and the rod.

The angle between the tangent to the rod but and the tangent to the tip should be about 90 degrees, but definitely not smaller than 90 degrees which would be too much bend.

jay
 
#7
I have spacing for the ARE 3pc 11ft 6/7wt. It should be pretty close, but I would tape the guides on an static test them. Send me a pm and I can send you a link to a Dropbox folder That I have saved a bunch of rod building resources.

Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk
 

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