Lings

mtskibum16

Active Member
Not apples to apples, but going against conventional "wisdom" has boated me a bunch of tiger muskies in the last year.
Conventional wisdom is basically just a starting point. Never let it dictate or limit what you are willing to try in any fishery. I think I've caught about as many SRC in conditions I "shouldn't have" as the ones all the experts talk about in the books or on the forum.
 

Tinker

Coigrich
There was a good thread either on WFF or NWKA about strategies to get your fly down to depth...let alone keeping a kayak in position long enough to effectively fish. I'm trying some of these out...might have to get a heavier rod...

We use heavy sink tips, Mark. I have a 9wt rod, underlined with an 8wt intermediate line, then add 20 feet of T-18 or T-20 giving me a (theoretical) sink rate between 11ips and 13ips. A 9wt line probably would have worked, too, but all I had around the house was an 8wt SA Sonal Titan Full Intermediate when I first tried that setup and it worked-out just fine for getting the fly down and the lingcod back up, so I haven't changed anything.

Can't help you with keeping the kayak still because I don't try. In a strong current, I have at times tucked the fly rod under my leg and paddled to more-or-less hold position, but only to gauge which direction the sub-surface currents are carrying the fly so I know where to position my kayak for the next cast and drift.
 

thatguyryry

Active Member
Resurrecting this thread, as I am starting to get all my gear ready this year for targeting different species. I've got an 8wt now, so would using a shooting line (some mono or something) with a sinking head work? Or should I specifically be looking for a different running line for fishing this.
 

Nick Clayton

WFF Supporter
Resurrecting this thread, as I am starting to get all my gear ready this year for targeting different species. I've got an 8wt now, so would using a shooting line (some mono or something) with a sinking head work? Or should I specifically be looking for a different running line for fishing this.


I wouldn't be super into using mono running line just cause stripping it sucks
 

SaltyCutt

Beach Bum
WFF Supporter
Resurrecting this thread, as I am starting to get all my gear ready this year for targeting different species. I've got an 8wt now, so would using a shooting line (some mono or something) with a sinking head work? Or should I specifically be looking for a different running line for fishing this.
Good one to resurrect, I started with 30' T14 looped onto mono (cheap Berkleybig game or stren catfish) clunky but effective for Chuck and stack mend which is what I used a lot to give head and fly time to sink in current. I have also used the t14 leviathan which casts way better but the running line is slower. These were both on a 10 weight, but same concept
 

bk paige

Wishin I was on the Sauk
If you are fishing lings out in open water an 8 might work, but if you tie into a big girl or in kelp beds you will want a 10wt. Like Nick I would stay away from mono as it will suck trying to strip that in then hook a toad and try and manage the mono to get to your reel. I used an intermediate running line paired up to a couple different sinking heads I can change as needed.
 

ChaseBallard

bushwhacker
+1 for the RIO Leviathan 750 grain sink tip. I now run a 9 WT rigged with that line in the San Juans and Straits. I fished an old 12 WT for years, which was nice to put the wood to the fish on their initial run, but generally felt like overkill as most lings I've hooked on the fly were 20-30" (still searching for one closer to oversize. The big girls come a lot quicker on live sanddabs or herring).

Casting isn't exactly great with the 750 grain on the 9, but it's not terrible either. Better than the shooting head and running line combos I've tried (which no doubt sink faster). If I'm fishing deeper than 40 feet I'll add some T-17 before my leader.

I've also messed around with various weighted flies, but don't feel they provide a ton of advantage, even if rigged on hooks meant to avoid hanging up, like the Gamakatsu Superlines.
 

James Harrington

MysteriousWater
Airflo Big Game Depth Finder w/ 10 ft Airflo saltwater polyleader and mono or fluoro leader of 6-8 inches of 25 lb looped to the polyleader and 2-3 ft of 40lb or heavier looped to the 25 lb bumper and down to the fly. This way if you get hung bad you can probably get the 25 to break off and save your fly line. Replace the 2-3 feet of 40lb as line damage happens from either ling teeth or rockfish sandpaper mouth. Non-slip loop to the fly.

8/9 wt: 400 grain
10 wt: 500 grain
11/12: 700 grain

Figure out how the tide is working and pull up just on the edge on the structure (rocks, kelp, debris, etc.). Flip a 5-8” balanced, big, nasty hunk of rabbit, Finn raccoon, yak hair concoction in muted colors like tan and olive and just a bit of flash just upstream of what the drift is doing. Keep an eye on the graph. Have a bunch of extra line stripped off at your feet. Shake your rod tip to release more line as the boat drifts away from the structure. When you feel like the fly is in the zone (or you can see on your graph that you’re in there) reel up any extra slack you’ve stripped off the reel and start your retrieve. I like long slow pulls with intermittent short, sharp jerks. Then hang on when your line stops and the rod pumps. Could be a nice ling, cabezon, any number of rockfish species, or occasionally a salmon (especially near the kelp).
 

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